Clutch Bleeding Procedure, as per 2011 Mustang manual
http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc235/calimr/ClutchBleeding.jpg
Some of you may recall I have been having grinding and lock out issues, and I noticed the clutch also had too much free play at the top. As many of you know, we do not have a bleed screw for the clutch. So I looked up how to do a clutch bleed on it, and was a bit skeptical. You put a vacuum on the MC for a minute, swap the cap back on and pump 10 times, repeat as necessary. After each pumping session, I also used a turkey baster to suck out the fluid in the MC and replaced it with ATE Amber 200 (already flushed the brakes with it). The fluid came out really, really dark for about 4 sessions, then started getting cleaner. There was also floaty lint looking bits (cooked fluid, I'm sure some of you have seen it before) that I sucked out with the baster. To get them out, you need to suck from the surface of the fluid, don't plunge it in, as they are right at the top. 8 sessions and a whole can of ATE later, fluid is nice and purty, clutch is stiff almost all the way to the top (1/2" free play is normal).
My friend showed up at that point, I promised he could try driving it as he had a C5 vette he sold a couple years back and is looking for a car to replace it (his DD is an S2000). I drove to get gas and test it out before handing it over, drove like new. Got up to the top of the mountain and handed her over, asked him after how the clutch and tranny were and he said great. Not as slick as his S2000, but very good. So problem is solved.
Dealer claimed everything was normal and would not do anything, which is why I did it myself.
And FWIW, he was giggling like a little kid every time the exhaust popped and he said it was the most fun car he ever drove.
http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc235/calimr/ClutchBleeding.jpg
Some of you may recall I have been having grinding and lock out issues, and I noticed the clutch also had too much free play at the top. As many of you know, we do not have a bleed screw for the clutch. So I looked up how to do a clutch bleed on it, and was a bit skeptical. You put a vacuum on the MC for a minute, swap the cap back on and pump 10 times, repeat as necessary. After each pumping session, I also used a turkey baster to suck out the fluid in the MC and replaced it with ATE Amber 200 (already flushed the brakes with it). The fluid came out really, really dark for about 4 sessions, then started getting cleaner. There was also floaty lint looking bits (cooked fluid, I'm sure some of you have seen it before) that I sucked out with the baster. To get them out, you need to suck from the surface of the fluid, don't plunge it in, as they are right at the top. 8 sessions and a whole can of ATE later, fluid is nice and purty, clutch is stiff almost all the way to the top (1/2" free play is normal).
My friend showed up at that point, I promised he could try driving it as he had a C5 vette he sold a couple years back and is looking for a car to replace it (his DD is an S2000). I drove to get gas and test it out before handing it over, drove like new. Got up to the top of the mountain and handed her over, asked him after how the clutch and tranny were and he said great. Not as slick as his S2000, but very good. So problem is solved.
Dealer claimed everything was normal and would not do anything, which is why I did it myself.
And FWIW, he was giggling like a little kid every time the exhaust popped and he said it was the most fun car he ever drove.
CaliMR said:I have this one, it works fine and is pretty cheap
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_SPM5952503102P?sid=IDx20070921x00003a&ci_src=14110944&ci_sku=00947058000
The only issue is it does not come with the plug to replace the MC cap, but it looks like they sell one at your link. I had the Motive kit already for pressure bleeding, and the cap works for this.
http://motiveproducts.3dcartstores.com/Black-Label-GMFord-3-Tab-Adapter-1118_p_105.html
I think there was a cheaper version but that one works well. Use the thick gasket, and push down pretty solid or it won't screw on. I like this one as it can be used for pressure bleeding as well, since it locks on. The plug type is only for vacuum as it just sits on there and vacuum holds it on.
The only issue with the Motive cap is that the tube is wider than the tube for the Mighty Vac, but the MV comes with an adapter that has a cone on one end and you just wedge that in the Motive tube to mate them.
You could also buy an oem cap and drill a hole then fit a tube to it, I don't know what type of glue or epoxy will not be bad for the brake fluid though.