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Clutch issue

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Last night ran to the gas station with a buddy on my slicks. They are smaller dia than my stock tires so I showed him how it pulled in 3rd, let off and shifted to fourth. The pedal felt weird, so I shifted into 6th and the pedal was riding way low, but shifted fine. Parked it for the night. This morning I drove my son to school and everything worked but the pedal was like an inch off the ground but still worked but very touchy due to travel. Drove around most the day like this. Got pissed at a stop light and pumped the clutch like 30 times. Problem is gone. Any thoughts?
 
ArizonaGT said:
Defective slave cylinder.
Most likely the case with lack of pedal return. I thought that's what was wrong with mine, but turned out it was just a spring ripped out of the clutch disc ::) Initially I had a little drag starting in first gear, almost like clutch chatter or a wheel or caliper lock up. Once in gear it was fine. Then it locked me out of any gear while driving. I pulled over and was able to get it in first with the car shut off. Upon starting it it lurched ahead and obviously the clutch wasn't disengaging. The smaller spring that sits inside the larger spring had wedged itself against the pressure plate, akin to putting a stick in the door hinge so it wouldn't open.





 
Oh no...will it be repaired in time for MPH?
 
5 DOT 0 said:
Oh no...will it be repaired in time for MPH?
All done. New clutch went in last week and I was on the road again by Friday. I had a chance to drive it for a few days and break it in before this weekend ;D It was funny, they were all nervous about how it "felt" to them (tech, service advisor, sales manager) and I got in it and it drove just like when it was new. Smooth as butta. I'm hoping I just had a defective clutch disc (weak spot in the steel or something), but I'm just a bit concerned that something came in contact with the edge of that spring. If you look at the pic, it appears to be scored. There wasn't anything unusual on any of the other driveline parts that would show a problem that would cause a recurrence.
 
Just a tad off topic but where is you guys release point for your clutch. Mine seems to be low just off off the floor. The release point in my GT500 is higher closer to the top of travel.
 

ArizonaBOSS

Because racecar.
Moderator
8,730
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Arizona, USA
Gary: WOW. Didn't think it would be that.

As far as the "grab" point for the clutch, it's much lower than in 2006. It feels like about 1/3 of the upper pedal travel in this car is "dead space".

No issues with engagement or disengagement though.
 
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BOSS 1276 said:
Just a tad off topic but where is you guys release point for your clutch. Mine seems to be low just off off the floor. The release point in my GT500 is higher closer to the top of travel.

hmm mine is pretty high, middle of the pedal for sure, I thought this was normal (2000miles on the car, has been like that since day 1) ...now you're going all make me nervous now ::)
maybe it is just a question of cable-rod adjustment?
 
1,255
2
GA
ArizonaGT said:
Gary: WOW. Didn't think it would be that.

As far as the "grab" point for the clutch, it's much lower than in 2006. It feels like about 1/3 of the upper pedal travel in this car is "dead space".

No issues with engagement or disengagement though.

My 5.0 is pretty much the same way. The odd thing I have noticed is the brake pedal releases with a "ka-chunk" sound. I will get that checked out the next time I bring it in for something. The brakes seem to work fine, but I worry about that snapped pedal that happened on a Boss test drive during heavy-braking and want to make sure that won't happen to me on the track.
 
The snapped brake pedal was due to an improperly installed pedal. This was a single incident done post-factory and not something people should be worrying about. A simple inspection of your pedal will confirm this:

From this article http://www.themustangboss302.com/2011/ford%E2%80%99s-boss-302-brake-system-failure/

"Scott heard a metallic snap as he braked. A quick look in the Mustang's footwell revealed the pin connecting the pedal to the master cylinder clevis rod end had sheared. The Mustang's brake pedal arm is normally located between the two sides of the clevis, and even if the clevis pin should fail, after a very short interval the back side of the pedal arm would act against the base of the clevis with enough force to actuate the master cylinder and apply the brakes. But for some reason, the pedal arm in this car had been pinned to the outside of the clevis, on the right-hand side. This concentrated all the force acting on the clevis pin on a single point, causing it to shear; and when the pin failed, the pedal slid past the rod that actuated the master cylinder. The result? No brakes."

Ford, obviously frantically upset with the news (Again, think: Toyota), put a halt to all assembly lines producing the Mustangs, and ordered an immediate investigation. Ford also took back the test car and immediately set forth diagnosing the problem, and inspecting the issue. No other instances of wrongly installed pedals have turned up. Every other pedal has been installed correctly according to an inspection by assembly workers on all previously produced Mustangs. The only reason that this could have been installed wrong was if it had been done post factory. Either way, all cars were inspected, including the process of installing the pedal to the clevis itself was inspected and zero anomalies were found. The logical explanation- and the one that MT opined, was that someone – for one reason or another—had pulled the brake master cylinder off and reinstalled the pin into the clevis wrong. Another possibility is someone moved it intentionally to gain a slight advantage when heel-toe downshifting.
 
1,255
2
GA
cloud9 said:
The snapped brake pedal was due to an improperly installed pedal. This was a single incident done post-factory and not something people should be worrying about. A simple inspection of your pedal will confirm this:

From this article http://www.themustangboss302.com/2011/ford%E2%80%99s-boss-302-brake-system-failure/

"Scott heard a metallic snap as he braked. A quick look in the Mustang's footwell revealed the pin connecting the pedal to the master cylinder clevis rod end had sheared. The Mustang's brake pedal arm is normally located between the two sides of the clevis, and even if the clevis pin should fail, after a very short interval the back side of the pedal arm would act against the base of the clevis with enough force to actuate the master cylinder and apply the brakes. But for some reason, the pedal arm in this car had been pinned to the outside of the clevis, on the right-hand side. This concentrated all the force acting on the clevis pin on a single point, causing it to shear; and when the pin failed, the pedal slid past the rod that actuated the master cylinder. The result? No brakes."

Ford, obviously frantically upset with the news (Again, think: Toyota), put a halt to all assembly lines producing the Mustangs, and ordered an immediate investigation. Ford also took back the test car and immediately set forth diagnosing the problem, and inspecting the issue. No other instances of wrongly installed pedals have turned up. Every other pedal has been installed correctly according to an inspection by assembly workers on all previously produced Mustangs. The only reason that this could have been installed wrong was if it had been done post factory. Either way, all cars were inspected, including the process of installing the pedal to the clevis itself was inspected and zero anomalies were found. The logical explanation- and the one that MT opined, was that someone – for one reason or another—had pulled the brake master cylinder off and reinstalled the pin into the clevis wrong. Another possibility is someone moved it intentionally to gain a slight advantage when heel-toe downshifting.

Thanks, this is what I remembered. It sounds like it was a post-factory error, but I will take look. Something just doesn't seem right to me, but it could be normal.
 
After driving it today the travel is still ok but the clutch pedal is making a weird noise when in use.
 

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