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Clutch pedal stop

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492
387
DFW, TX
I've always hated the excessive clutch pedal travel in my GT350. The last few inches of travel do nothing. My FRS has a nifty threaded adjuster for clutch engagement and I've set that rather close to the firewall. Switching between cars was a little amusing as I would try to put my foot through the fire wall in the FRS. Now my leg is extended the same in both cars and the engagement is right off the pedal stop. Personal preference.

I don't have a mill so cutting an old leaf sitting lowering block with a radial cutoff saw with carbide teeth had to do. This is not OSHA approved. I also used it to cut the slot in the block. Two set screws hold it to the back of the pedal arm. A longer 8/32 bolt used for the SRP pedal threads on to another hole in the aluminum block as insurance. You really don't want this thing coming loose...

Getting the angle of the adjuster was a little tricky. I used a set screw on the back side of that hole and a nut on the adjuster to lock that foot in place.

You then need a longer pad on the lever that engages the clutch interlock switch. You have to play with the two contact points, the switch and the clutch to get it where you want it and have it allow the starter switch to engage.

787b2c5ae592459d03106d7e70d63cd8.jpg

49eff154a6dacd6a1ee7a492a619b82e.jpg

The adjuster hits square on the back of the carpeted firewall.

0b1ed521c2b6eb441ee51b57356ee74c.jpg
 

Fabman

Dances with Racecars
6,553
8,204
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Pleasanton: 1/2 way between Sonoma and Laguna Seca
Nice work!
 
Interesting. So this limits the travel so it won't travel all the way to the floor and shortens the pedal throw.

For the S197 cars you could buy a block that in essence moved the pedal out so that it bottomed out sooner. It worked great for shorter drivers. I bet it would work on the S550 cars.
 

Fabman

Dances with Racecars
6,553
8,204
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Pleasanton: 1/2 way between Sonoma and Laguna Seca
Interesting. So this limits the travel so it won't travel all the way to the floor and shortens the pedal throw.

For the S197 cars you could buy a block that in essence moved the pedal out so that it bottomed out sooner. It worked great for shorter drivers. I bet it would work on the S550 cars.

Old drag racing trick. Why push all the way down on the clutch when you don't have to? Haven't seen anyone do that in awhile as automatics have taken over.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
492
387
DFW, TX
My old 65 Fastback had a Tilton triple disk clutch and a 8lb flywheel with about a 3/8" of trigger pull, the pedal travel was about an 1-1/2" as you had to worry about over traveling the hydraulic slave cylinder. On that car, I had a big spacer on the clutch pedal so it was more flush with the brake.

The position of the clutch disengagement is fine on the new GT350, it is just there soooo much travel beyond that point to the firewall.
 
492
387
DFW, TX
No issues with with pedal stop at today's track day.

Even before today though I noticed another issue with the pedals. It may be the way I heel and toe or a combination of the new SRP pedal covers, but I've noticed few times I'm depressing the gas when braking really hard. The new brake and clutch pedals replace the stock covers but the gas pedal is placed on top of the existing pedal. That changes the orientation of the two pedals. I know there is a product that spaces the gas pedal out, but I never had a problem in that regard.

So, I made a spacer for the brake pedal.4d23e8618de58ff8ac077e633570c893.jpg
 

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