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Clutch Safety Switch

Silver LS

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Has anyone had any problems with the clutch safety switch? Mine old stopped working and I replaced it. The new one seems to be working sometimes and not working others. I the switch with an ohm meter and it is good. I have between 11 and 12 volts to the switch. I put it back together and it works. My clutch pedal has to be on the floor for the car to start. Thanks.
 

Silver LS

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Well the saga continues with what seems like a turn for the worse. This time while troubling shooting it again the anti theft light that blinks started flashing. The message center said I should check charging system and also service the AdvanceTrax system. Owners manual said see a ford shop and that is where it is. Anyone have any ideas or comment.
 

Silver LS

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It is at the dealer. When the anti theft light is flashing there is no way to start the car. You can't even push start it. Battery voltage was good. Swapped starter relay with the spare. Thanks for the suggestions I am sure this will be a learning experience.
 

Racerpilotalan

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Has anyone had any problems with the clutch safety switch? Mine old stopped working and I replaced it. The new one seems to be working sometimes and not working others. I the switch with an ohm meter and it is good. I have between 11 and 12 volts to the switch. I put it back together and it works. My clutch pedal has to be on the floor for the car to start. Thanks.
Mine always has had to be really close to the floor, but not on it.
 

TMSBOSS

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I have a new switch and MM clutch pedal stop on the way.
I am not happy with the clutch engaging high with the RST clutch. Auto blip is a chore to use. I have to depress clutch why past disengagement point to activate the auto blip. Hopefully the stop and adjustment to new switch will fix this.
 

k98dave

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My clutch pedal has to be right on the floor to start. Least little release of pressure and its shuts off. Are these adjustable?
 

TMSBOSS

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I understand they are. I ordered a new switch in case I "Adjust" the switch and she don't work.
You should be able to rotate the shaft and pull it out. Then press the pedal to push the plunger back in and reset.
If you keep the stock pedal stop the switch will eventually reset to the lowest position you pushed. That's why I am trying the MM stop along with a new switch.
 

Silver LS

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Got the problem fixed! It was a bad PCM relay, number 57 in the fuse box. I hope this was my occasional no start problem. Time will tell. thanks for all the suggestions.
 

Norm Peterson

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Has anyone had any problems with the clutch safety switch? Mine old stopped working and I replaced it. The new one seems to be working sometimes and not working others. I the switch with an ohm meter and it is good. I have between 11 and 12 volts to the switch. I put it back together and it works. My clutch pedal has to be on the floor for the car to start. Thanks.
The boldfaced part is why the same little interlock switch on my '08 mysteriously became 'always closed' within two weeks of my taking delivery. Having to stomp the pedal well into the OE floor mat and losing 'crank' if I lifted even a tiny amount off the clutch pedal must have invited some sort of 'electromechanical intervention', since (on edit, as TMSBOSS has noted) it was not possible to adjust the switch to a higher point and get it to stay there.

Having started to drive, and drive stick, several years before these switches were required allows me to have a perspective . . . let's say "somewhat different from what the safety industry would prefer I hold".


I've run into the same situation on the WRX, but at least for that car a solid jam-nut adjustment exists that actually lets the thing hold its new position setting. Thank God, skinned knuckle and all.


Norm
 
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