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Complete Brake Job - Rotors/Pads/Lines

We got this local owner in to do a full on brake job.



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(Ignore the silly red car....)


First we will get the front pads out. Use a suitable punch to knock the pad pins out. Then remove the pins and cross spring.

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You should then be able to wiggle the pads out - pull them back a bit if there is a big lip to get over.

The arrow on the shim is for direction of rotation.

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Remove the bolts holding on the caliper. Pretty tight 15mm head.

Blue loctite!


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Hang the caliper out of the way and install the new rotor. DBA 2 piece - pretty!



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Reinstall the calipers - 85 ft-lbs and blue loctite

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Here is the tool we use to push the pistons back
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Or in a pinch you can pry back w/ a used pad.

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Note - Leave the other pad in so those pistons don't push out.

Re-install pads and pins/cross spring. Make sure the pin detent seats securely.

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It's easiest to do the lines separately when it's all back together. Just re-do what Ford did w/ the new lines.

Remove/install the lines. The Stoptech kit was quite complete to mimic the secure factory setup. You remove the factory bracket - you do have to finesse the line to attach to it - but then they have a neat isolator setup to hold the lines.

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Get a line wrench - and don't overtorque.

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Lunch break!
 

steveespo

Lord knows I'm a Voodoo Child
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NY Metro
Got my 15" GT500 specific Carbotech XP24 Pads from KNS yesterday, perfect, increase in pad material over the Lexus 14.3" shape I have been using has to help with both torque and temperatures. Very pleased that CT got these out finally.
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Steve
 
Does anyone know the specs for the banjo bolts? I just had a fun time installing lines and trying to use Fords spec of 41ft/lbs.
 

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