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Convince me not to buy this..

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Fabman

Dances with Racecars
6,553
8,204
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
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20+ Years
Pleasanton: 1/2 way between Sonoma and Laguna Seca
This is what it looked like before the tall ball joints.


IMG_5438.png
Re: Convince me not to buy this..
 

Grant 302

basic and well known psychic
Sounds like you should try lowering your car 1/2"? On the street, I only use a little over 1" of compression and have about the same 2" available for bump travel.

Your pic before the ball joints looks close to level. The center of the ball joint appears much higher on aftermarket arms. Ignore the angle of the tubing.

Passenger side:
28405238771_14324bf049.jpg

GT now:
28405237251_d809a5952d.jpg
 

Fabman

Dances with Racecars
6,553
8,204
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Pleasanton: 1/2 way between Sonoma and Laguna Seca
Grant 302 said:
Sounds like you should try lowering your car 1/2"? On the street, I only use a little over 1" of compression and have about the same 2" available for bump travel.

Your pic before the ball joints looks close to level. The center of the ball joint appears much higher on aftermarket arms. Ignore the angle of the tubing.

Passenger side:
28405238771_14324bf049.jpg

GT now:
28405237251_d809a5952d.jpg
Yep, I'm aware. I measure from the center of the ball down and also the lower pickup point.
I'd love to lower this thing front and back, but I'm already under Cortex specs and its way high with damn little travel on both ends.
 

Grant 302

basic and well known psychic
Fabman said:
Yep, I'm aware. I measure from the center of the ball down and also the lower pickup point.
I'd love to lower this thing front and back, but I'm already under Cortex specs and its way high with damn little travel on both ends.

I wouldn't say that. You'd only need a little over an inch of travel to lift the inside wheel in a turn with 500#/in. fronts. In theory, at least...kissing the bumpstops.

Before you added the ball joints, I think our setups were similar in height, etc. I wouldn't hesitate to drop the car another ~1/2" with the ball joints. That's been part of my plan, just haven't gotten around to getting them yet.
 

Fabman

Dances with Racecars
6,553
8,204
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Pleasanton: 1/2 way between Sonoma and Laguna Seca
Grant 302 said:
I wouldn't say that. You'd only need a little over an inch of travel to lift the inside wheel in a turn with 500#/in. fronts. In theory, at least...kissing the bumpstops.

Before you added the ball joints, I think our setups were similar in height, etc. I wouldn't hesitate to drop the car another ~1/2" with the ball joints. That's been part of my plan, just haven't gotten around to getting them yet.
I'll be at the shop in the morning, I'll get some numbers and recheck the heights tomorrow. Its on my list for the next event anyway.
Yes, what I need to know is how much travel I need to allow. Every time I check the bumpers they are pushed all the way to the end so I worry than it's bottoming, especially in the rear. If 1 1/2" is really enough travel up front I'm all over it. My rear trailing arms are pointed up 2.5* empty and I drive with my son in the car so that's almost 500 pounds more between us.
If I lower the rear any more I'd have to go to the next hole and that's a pretty big jump. Those bumpers get pushed all the way down too so I am afraid to lower it much more...I probably have 2" travel to the bumpers.
 

domesticpower

Track Addict
190
135
NS
Thank you all for the responses.

I'm not worried about changing the roll centre as I can adjust the Watt's link and raise the rear roll centre. The car's balance will stay the same and less body roll front and back. Seems like a good deal. I didn't realize those ball joints had a bad reputation for track work. I will have to pass.

I've considered both, the Boss 302S arms and the BMR ones. I've always assumed the 302S arms don't come with bushings so they'd have been too expensive for me to get all parts. I'll contact sellers and get confirmation that they come with bushings. BMR ones are tempting, but I have been too worried about them not holding up.

The car is really well balanced and street driven often so I didn't want to mess with toe but if it makes a good difference, I might give it a shot.
 
Get the Boss302S. The rebuild-able Howe ball joint is awesome.

If they don't come with bushing and don't want to spend 400+ for the ford racing bushings, you can get the Prothane.

http://www.prothanesuspensionparts.com/6220
http://www.prothanesuspensionparts.com/6218

Make sure you tight the front one first.
 

Mad Hatter

Gotta go Faster
5,244
4,233
Santiago, Chile
About toe.... I recently tried fooling around with alignment at the track. Stock toe in, then 0.5 toe out made a whole second less in my time with toe out!! Big difference!

Sent from my SM-G900M using Tapatalk
 

Fabman

Dances with Racecars
6,553
8,204
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Pleasanton: 1/2 way between Sonoma and Laguna Seca
I measured everything again and decided to lower it 3/8" in the front and 1/4" in the back.
I'm hoping there is enough travel everywhere.


IMG_7703.png
Re: Convince me not to buy this..
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Re: Convince me not to buy this..
IMG_7708.png
Re: Convince me not to buy this..
IMG_7709.png
Re: Convince me not to buy this..

Re: Convince me not to buy this..
 

Mad Hatter

Gotta go Faster
5,244
4,233
Santiago, Chile
With load the rear bar will be steering the rear axle the wrong way.... I think you need to increase that angle by going to the lower hole.

Sent from my SM-G900M using Tapatalk
 

Fabman

Dances with Racecars
6,553
8,204
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Pleasanton: 1/2 way between Sonoma and Laguna Seca
Mad Hatter said:
With load the rear bar will be steering the rear axle the wrong way.... I think you need to increase that angle by going to the lower hole.

Sent from my SM-G900M using Tapatalk
It was set at 2.5* now it's 1.5*.
The next hole would be way too much angle.
I have a torque arm so I don't need the anti squat plus it would give me roll oversteer which I don't want.
I need it neutral to slight roll under steer to combat 700 rwhp.
 

Mad Hatter

Gotta go Faster
5,244
4,233
Santiago, Chile
I love this pic that Grant put up ages ago. I would give the lower point a try just to see what its like. I use the lower BMR position and just lower the Coil over to get the angle I want. Too much angle makes the rear hard to control under heavy braking. To near neutral gives Roll understeer and wears out the front tires very quickly!!

QYtkfQWatSUGgWWOqrHsuapaYrZlRJvW0OCIIHpt1vRQUNtIWQ.png
 

Fabman

Dances with Racecars
6,553
8,204
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Pleasanton: 1/2 way between Sonoma and Laguna Seca
Mad Hatter said:
I love this pic that Grant put up ages ago. I would give the lower point a try just to see what its like. I use the lower BMR position and just lower the Coil over to get the angle I want. Too much angle makes the rear hard to control under heavy braking. To near neutral gives Roll understeer and wears out the front tires very quickly!!

QYtkfQWatSUGgWWOqrHsuapaYrZlRJvW0OCIIHpt1vRQUNtIWQ.png
I am well versed in how it works....roll oversteer would be suicide in this case.
 

Fabman

Dances with Racecars
6,553
8,204
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Pleasanton: 1/2 way between Sonoma and Laguna Seca
Mad Hatter said:
I dont have your horse power problem ;D . Nice one to have!
Yeah, it's different. With low power cars on short tracks roll oversteer is helpful.
This thing will light the tires at 100mph so the last thing I need is anything related to oversteer.
 

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