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Cooling solution at the track??

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I have an idea, I experimented on it this afternoon.

I removed the hood firewall ( black blanket) then I removed the hood vents (2013 Boss hood)
I think this might improve the cooling and the venting at the track.
It took me 5 minutes to do.

I have a question, do you think removing the firewall at the track can roast the window washer tubes? :-\

Do you think the idea will really help? Was it tried before?
 
I found no significant cooling improvement from changing to the Tiger hood so I am going to say there wouldn't be much improvement for you. On the 2012s the biggest cooling improvement is removing the grille or going to a high flow one. It's worth 15-20 degrees F. I am not sure about the 2013s.
 
It will not hurt the washer tubes in any timely manner. Removing the hood blanket will help some but nothing you would notice, less then a degree for sure.

Removing the vents will help with air flow however I do not think will not be a big difference since the vents were designed for cooling. IMO the vents people talk about in the hood venting radiant heat out of the engine compartment means nothing. It is all about getting airflow through the radiator, the more the better. The heat these engines make is all internal at high RPM's and the only thing that is going to help cool it is that air flow across the radiator.

The better mod to see a bigger difference in cooling is to block off any area where air can escape between the grill and radiator. Granted I track at sea level but I have not had any cooling issues with my Boss. I started by adding the 302S grille, removing that same hood insulation, the rear weather strip for air flow, the foam pieces off the intake and running distilled water. That keep me just under the 250 CHT mark. Later I added the Tiger hood but did not see any real difference.

I did see cooler temps when I did the block off between the grille and radiator. Then I removed the AC system and saw a 10 degree drop in temps. I did not look to much at the temps last time out by when I did it was in the 230's CHT area.

Hope this helps.
 
13Boss#3328 said:
The idea does not sound very promising lol

Do some of u guys remove the whole grille at the track?!

If you do you may want to add a sheet of nomex honeycomb to protect the radiator or a/c condensor.
 
13Boss#3328 said:
I have an idea, I experimented on it this afternoon.

I removed the hood firewall ( black blanket) then I removed the hood vents (2013 Boss hood)
I think this might improve the cooling and the venting at the track.
It took me 5 minutes to do.

I have a question, do you think removing the firewall at the track can roast the window washer tubes? :-\

Do you think the idea will really help? Was it tried before?

The stock grille has very restrictive air flow. Guys have done all kinds of things to make them flow more air. Best bet is to get one of the aftermarket grills that don't have fake fog lights in them. Not sure which one is best for the 13 but it made a big difference on my 12 when I swapped out the stock grille.
Examples :
http://www.americanmuscle.com/roush-upper-grille-2013.html
http://www.americanmuscle.com/cdc-performance-grille-2013.html
http://www.americanmuscle.com/black-retro-billet-grille-2013gt.html

I am sure the racers have favorites as well but these would be a good start.
 
Iiiiiiiiiiiiinteresting that the Tiger Racing hood doesn't do anything for cooling.
I was going to get one for just that purpose, with the side benefit of some reduced front end lift. But I guess that's off my list!
Phew! Thanks guys, you saved me some coin :)

I'll do grille first.

FWIW I did drill out the stock grille (fog light blanks) and also dremelled out any material (like the 302S grille).
Sounds like options like Roush, Saleen etc are still better. I'll go that route first.

I too removed the underhood insulating blanket and rear weather strip on the hood.
 
It's odd that the Tiger hood didn't help cooling. I have no empirical data but I do know that feeling the under hood temps before and after there was a huge difference.
 
Brandon302 said:
It's odd that the Tiger hood didn't help cooling. I have no empirical data but I do know that feeling the under hood temps before and after there was a huge difference.

Not odd at all. think of it this way, stick your water hose in a piece of 1 1/2 PVC, see how much water comes out. Then stick your water hose in a piece of 10 inch pvc, see how much water comes out. same right? because theres only so much coming in. You have to open the front up before a bigger exit can help at all.
 
I removed the hood blanket too, but didn't notice a difference. As others have said opening up the grille is the way to go. I just removed mine all together. No cooling issues now even on 100 degree days. I think I am going to switch over to water wetter as well.
 
IMO the best thing to do other than removing the grille altogether is to install a billet style bar grille that passes as much air as possible. Think Roush, Saleen or Cobra Jet if you can find one.
 
NFSBOSS said:
IMO the best thing to do other than removing the grille altogether is to install a billet style bar grille that passes as much air as possible. Think Roush, Saleen or Cobra Jet if you can find one.

The cobra jet grille is no longer produced sadly. Latemodel restoration has the Saleen grille in stock.

http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/item/SAL-C19520A/2010-12-Mustang-GT-Saleen-S281-Front-Grille
 
NewBossowner said:
Not odd at all. think of it this way, stick your water hose in a piece of 1 1/2 PVC, see how much water comes out. Then stick your water hose in a piece of 10 inch pvc, see how much water comes out. same right? because theres only so much coming in. You have to open the front up before a bigger exit can help at all.
So then in opening the grill and having the tiger hood would't that increase air flow through the engine bay, unlike if you only opened the grill.
 
Does anyone have an oil or water temp gauge who can report on differences with new grille vs stock?
This thread is beginning to worry me. I cut my OE grille 302S style. Are people finding the 302S grilles sufficient?
What's this madness I'm reading about people removing grilles all together?? FWIW I'm at sea level :D
 
boro92 said:
Does anyone have an oil or water temp gauge who can report on differences with new grille vs stock?
This thread is beginning to worry me. I cut my OE grille 302S style. Are people finding the 302S grilles sufficient?
What's this madness I'm reading about people removing grilles all together?? FWIW I'm at sea level :D
CHT drops 15-20* pulling the stock or 302S grilles OR installing a billet grille like the one from Roush or American Muscle. I have run about every possible combination. I have an FRPP air-to-oil cooler and installed the temp gauge at the same time so I can't tell you what the difference is on oil but I run consistently in the 230s when whaling on the car at the track in temps up to 100*.

Being at sea level is worth a lot. I'm at anywhere from 1100-2000 ft above sea level and there is a noticeable increase in engine temps the higher you go.

The issue with the stock grille design as it relates to airflow is the horizontal bars. They taper out wider toward the engine. Therefore removing the fog light material only helps minimally. It's the design of those bars that keeps the air from reaching the radiator. That's why the billet grilles with narrow FLAT bars make such a big difference. Not sure it's madness to remove the grille considering the new '13 GT500 basically comes without a grille ;)
 
cloud9 said:
CHT drops 15-20* pulling the stock or 302S grilles OR installing a billet grille like the one from Roush or American Muscle. I have run about every possible combination. I have an FRPP air-to-oil cooler and installed the temp gauge at the same time so I can't tell you what the difference is on oil but I run consistently in the 230s when whaling on the car at the track in temps up to 100*.

Being at sea level is worth a lot. I'm at anywhere from 1100-2000 ft above sea level and there is a noticeable increase in engine temps the higher you go.

The issue with the stock grille design as it relates to airflow is the horizontal bars. They taper out wider toward the engine. Therefore removing the fog light material only helps minimally. It's the design of those bars that keeps the air from reaching the radiator. That's why the billet grilles with narrow FLAT bars make such a big difference. Not sure it's madness to remove the grille considering the new '13 GT500 basically comes without a grille ;)

Cloud9, thank you! This is just the info I was looking for.
You still saw up to 20deg difference sans grille...wow. Sounds like the 302S grille design isn't worth very much in the cooling department. Time to go grille shopping...!
 

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