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CorteX Cambered Floating CV drive Axle

This is pretty cool for those serious about lap times or winning races. I got a chance to check these out on the Phoenix cars last August at Sonoma. If you're considering this setup it is on sale through December for $500 off the sale price. If interested call CorteX and tell them you're a BMO member and you'll need your forum ID.

CorteX will soon have the ability to use the OEM rear calipers by using custom 2-piece rotors made by Girodisc. This will keep the costs of the conversion down. For street use they recommend going with either -1.0 or -1.5 degrees of camber.

@blacksheep-1
@ajaquilante

http://cortexracing.com/product/cambered-full-floating-cv-ball-drive-axle/

ffr-4001-302s_011-300x300.jpg

Cambered Full Floating CV Ball Drive Axle – CorteX Racing

$5,495.00 Normal Price
$4,995.00 Sale Price
$4,495.00 BMO Member Price

SKU: FFR-4001-302S
The evolution of the solid axle

The CorteX Cambered Full Floating CV Ball Drive Axle is a proven way to shave seconds off the lap time of any solid axle vehicle including the S197 Mustang. This is accomplished by adding significantly more rear grip for earlier throttle application and by substantially increasing braking performance and pedal feel while concurrently increased tire life. These advantages are what it’s going to take to be competitive against the new S550 IRS Mustang and the now 300lb lighter 2016 Camaro.

Announcing the new CorteX Cambered Full Floating S197 Axle Assembly.

Together with Race Products, a leading supplier to V8 Supercars in Australia and New Zealand, CorteX has developed and validated the design with top Mustang race teams in the Pirelli World Challenge 2015 season. Rehagen Racing, Roush and Phoenix Performance rely on this CorteX product to keep their Mustangs competitive against a field of world-class IRS equipped racecars.

When paired with the CorteX rear suspension components, it creates an proven race-winning combination.
 
Sounds great!
Is it a do it yourself kit (weld it yourself kitactually) or does it come with the housing?
What is included in the $5K?
 
I was checking this out on the Cortex website the other day. Very trick looking. I just received my Cortex/JRI single adjustable coilovers and I'm about to order their watts link. This will have to wait but it's on my wish list.
 
VooDooBOSS said:
I'm glad you got a set. Did you ever get the RSD installed? I'd make the CorteX watts link a high priority! ;D
I took advantage of the black Friday sale. No, I haven't gotten the RSD installed yet. After putting in the Watson roll bar I decided that I like it in red and haven't got around to having the brace powder coated.
 

Bill Pemberton

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Ran in Topeka against a PF Racing ( cool IMSA/World Challenge Racing Team) Boss 302S with the cambered rear end and could sure see the hook up difference coming out of the carousel and a sweeping left hander! Hoping Cortex is still doing a TMO discount , as this looks to me to be one of the best mods to counter all the IRS cars competing out there. Seen the magic in action from the PF Racing Boss S and having watched Andrew Aquilante's killer runs with a similar beast with the Cortex Cambered set up. Quicker power hook up and more gs with a more balanced camber setup front to rear, Cortex is holding my Christmas present -------and birthday, and next Christmas, etc., haha.

What was cool was Rob Nowland ( from Cortex ) was at Topeka with the PF Team helping to dial in the GT4s and the BossS.........not too hard to figure PF Racing is pretty pleased with the Cortex products.
 

ArizonaBOSS

Because racecar.
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Bill Pemberton

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Was told by a well known mechanic that going to the Cortex cambered set-up would get me at least 2 seconds ,and since I was running 1.5 seconds behind a similar Boss 302S with said and Pirelli slicks , I have to admit the old wheels began turning in my Soc. Security addled brain! How much of an improvement did you figure , time wise, and considering you had a MCS shocks it might not have been that dramatic? Gonna have to save my pennies , it appears?
 
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Let me give you guys a karting analogy, back in they day a company gave us engines to develop, they were..say..about 2 seconds slower than the Yamaha, so we set about reworking everything, the carb, the clutches, the chassis setup the tires, everything we could think of doing (the engine internals were off limits). when we were done, we were as fast as the Yamahas, problem is, when we put the Yamaha back on to validate our improvements, the kart leapt ahead 2 more seconds. Seems we greatly improved the handling, but the engine would never be better than the Yamaha.
The reason I bring this out is that I think (IMO) just adding the cambered diff will help, but you shouldn't expect miracles, (it's an outstanding unit that can take a pretty good beating..you could bend a Kia in half with one..long story) but where you are going to find the speed is that the new diff will allow you to make other changes in the chassis that before didn't make that much of an improvement, will now offer much more speed. In racing there is no magic piece of equipment.(.well maybe a mercury bar) but in real life it's always going to be incremental, and this diff will open up a lot of doors for you as long as it's a legal option.
 
Agree with Blacksheep!

Adding negative camber to the rear will add to rear lateral grip... so more understeer. So add some rear spring rate or rear bar to balance. Now you have more lateral grip overall.... It your oil pan up to the job? Are your springs? It will also take away from rear braking - tires aren't standing upright anymore - so compounds may need to change. Balance will change under power at corner exit for the same reason. Shock settings likely need to change, too. Same for the rear LCA position, if you have installed the drop brackets.

This is an old solid axle racers trick. The SCCA specs the max negative rear camber for A-Sedan for that reason. You can use an arc welder on the top of the axle tubes to gain a bit more camber and a touch of toe in, if you want. The slop in the axle splines will take a fair bit - 1 degree - before it becomes a bind. A little lathe work can get you to 1.25 degrees or so.
 

JDee

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This is an old solid axle racers trick. The SCCA specs the max negative rear camber for A-Sedan for that reason. You can use an arc welder on the top of the axle tubes to gain a bit more camber and a touch of toe in, if you want. The slop in the axle splines will take a fair bit - 1 degree - before it becomes a bind. A little lathe work can get you to 1.25 degrees or so.

This was being done back in the days of Players/GM series with the original 1LE Camaros. Series caught on and started checking, they limited it "unofficially" to .25". Downside was it was hard on axles you had to change them regularly or they would shear off. Saw a lot of broken axles when those cars went into endurance work, those were the guys too cheap to change axle shafts pro-actively.

A well known crew chief of the day told me it was impossible to camber a solid rear end, yet the local stock cars guys had been doing exactly this since the 60s, probably even before then. They heated on top on one side and bottom on the other to get neg camber right rear and pos camber left rear. They used a torch and did heat/cool cycles to shrink the axle tube until they got what they wanted. Those guys were a bit crude but not dumb.
 

ArizonaBOSS

Because racecar.
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Yes, those were the best methods of the time, for use constrained by mandated "stock" parts. If you want something that is both flexible in application as well as robust in design, the CorteX rear is the solution.
 

ChrisM

Mostly harmless.
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Curious about the longevity and rebuildability of these things. Ultimately, everything is a consumable, but having to replace a cambered rear axle after every season would not be ideal. Any idea if these things could be considered "good for the life of the car" with regular maintenance?
 
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Curious about the longevity and rebuildability of these things. Ultimately, everything is a consumable, but having to replace a cambered rear axle after every season would not be ideal. Any idea if these things could be considered "good for the life of the car" with regular maintenance?

I had finally found the limits of mine, close to 500 race hours in 4 different cars before It Finally blew a seal out.
 

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