Coyote engine noise

[ShifterX]

2011 just turned 90k. I have had it for about 15k and recently noticed the following:

Cold start, no issue. Driving creates an rpm based tick/rattle from around 2k-3k. Similar to the sound of a sewing machine. Most apparent when cold, never noticed it during the summer. Happens at low load. Tipping in the throttle seems to make it go away. Also the noise diminishes as the oil heats up. I am on Castrol Edge 5w40 now. The sound may have been there the whole time as I recently switched to the stock mufflers. Interior is very quiet now.

Did the searching. Found BBQ tick, piston slap, rod bearings, timing chain issues and VVT issues. The last seems closest to what I have. Oil pressure issues create a noise from the VVT system? Its an early 2011, so maybe needs a timing chain set? Different oil?

Let me know what you think. Appreciate the help...

 

[Mad Hatter]

We have had that in several of the Mustangs that track regulary. Normally we put in a cam shaft drive kit for peace of mind.

 

[BackInBlack]

I don't know anything about this, but was curious. Found this video:

For this guy it was rod bearings. Hope you figure it out!

 

[ShifterX]

Not like the one in the video. A few differences:

Mine does not make the noise below 2k at any temp
The frequency is much slower than what is in the video. The speed of the noise in the video is clearly from a crank event.
The sound it less defined. Mine is more of a rattle, think sowing machine at low-mid speed.

Any way thanks for the video. From my search there are many reasons these engines start making noises.

 

[BackInBlack]

Not like the one in the video. A few differences:

Mine does not make the noise below 2k at any temp
The frequency is much slower than what is in the video. The speed of the noise in the video is clearly from a crank event.
The sound it less defined. Mine is more of a rattle, think sowing machine at low-mid speed.

Any way thanks for the video. From my search there are many reasons these engines start making noises.

Yeah. I'm interested b/c I'm thinking about a very mild tick that comes from my car. Wondering if it might be TSB 12-8-14 -- the stretchy belt tick. Very mild so it could be nothing. Planning on checking out the pulleys later when I have time. Good luck man!

 

[ShifterX]

We have had that in several of the Mustangs that track regulary. Normally we put in a cam shaft drive kit for peace of mind.

View attachment 99576

1) Is there aftermarket options for this as well or is the ford stuff the way to go?
2) Is there a way to get a sense of cam stretch or guide wear by data logging the sensors in action? I assume there is a threshold that would create a fault code.

 

[ShifterX]

Yeah. I'm interested b/c I'm thinking about a very mild tick that comes from my car. Wondering if it might be TSB 12-8-14 -- the stretchy belt tick. Very mild so it could be nothing. Planning on checking out the pulleys later when I have time. Good luck man!

What are the symptoms? Random light ticking from under the car is typically called the BBQ tick. I heard that a few times from my car but it is very randomized. Some people it is more consistent. I think the leading theory is the big ends of the rods are "dancing" into each other because of too much thrust clearance. Once there is a load on the rods the noise goes away.

No expert, just done a bit of research now.

 

[BackInBlack]

Well mine sounds like it's coming from the belt or pulleys. It's very light and you can only hear it from an angle. I noticed it recently when I had to stop for something and got out of my car while it was running. On the other side of my car was a brick wall which helped reflect the noise. If I stand around the end of the open door, I hear a light ticking. If I move anywhere else it is very difficult to notice unless I stick my ear right into the area where the pulleys are. I'm thinking it's probably just old pulleys wobbling, or possibly TSB 12-8-14. But it's so light nobody else would notice it but me. It could even be normal. Still nitpicking my build.

I plan on trying the screwdriver test where you put a long screwdriver on the pulleys to amplify any sounds... If it is a pulley, I caught it way early. The alternator pulley went bad on the old V6 engine at around 125K miles. I also plan to compare to a buddy of mine's 2013 BOSS.

 

[ShifterX]

Cheap stethoscopes can be had at Harbor freight. Better than a screwdriver IMO. Good luck!

 

[blacksheep-1]

I've had belts make some pretty bizarre noises. In the old days of v belts we could rub a bar of soap on them and see if the noise quits. I suppose a bit of belt dressing might work on our stuff.

 

[ShifterX]

Depending on the car, you can also just remove the belt and run the engine for 30 seconds or so. Usually the easiest way to tell if it’s a drive belt/component related noise.

Unfortunately, the noise I hear is only apparent driving. Engine needs a little load, but not too much. 2k the sowing machine starts and then fades away at 3k. Once warmed up (not the coolant, the oil) then it’s pretty much gone.

 

[Mad Hatter]

1) Is there aftermarket options for this as well or is the ford stuff the way to go?
2) Is there a way to get a sense of cam stretch or guide wear by data logging the sensors in action? I assume there is a threshold that would create a fault code.

I would go with the Ford stuff for sure. MMR has timing chain guides etc if you want to go the extra mile.

 

[blacksheep-1]

I would go with the Ford stuff for sure. MMR has timing chain guides etc if you want to go the extra mile.

Def Ford stuff

 

[EF1]

We have had that in several of the Mustangs that track regulary. Normally we put in a cam shaft drive kit for peace of mind.

View attachment 99576

That is the kit waiting to go into my 2011 this winter. I am at 97,000 miles. Probably a baffled oil pan and high flow oil pump as a precaution as well. Not sure if I should do anything else while I am at it.

 

[Dave_W]

Not sure if I should do anything else while I am at it.

If you're been living at high rpm a lot, consider valve springs.

 

[EF1]

If you're been living at high rpm a lot, consider valve springs.

It has spent it's share above 7,000 rpms. Which springs would you go with?

 

[Dave_W]

I'm not at the mileage to wory about mine yet. For a simple upgrade for a GT, the Boss springs are a bit stiffer than stock Gen 1 GT. The PAC-1234X springs seem to be a popular aftermarket choice for the racers on this forum. Livernois also sells their own drop-in spring; I think I read they are between the Boss and PAC in stiffness. Pay attention to installed seat / closed pressure and spring rate when comparing. The other option I'd look at is Comp Cams if they have a kit with their newer tool steel retainers (usually lighter than chromoly steel without the cost & durability issues of titanium).

 

[EF1]

I'm not at the mileage to wory about mine yet. For a simple upgrade for a GT, the Boss springs are a bit stiffer than stock Gen 1 GT. The PAC-1234X springs seem to be a popular aftermarket choice for the racers on this forum. Livernois also sells their own drop-in spring; I think I read they are between the Boss and PAC in stiffness. Pay attention to installed seat / closed pressure and spring rate when comparing. The other option I'd look at is Comp Cams if they have a kit with their newer tool steel retainers (usually lighter than chromoly steel without the cost & durability issues of titanium).

Thanks for the input. Looks like Boss springs are 1/4 the price of the other two. Since I have stock heads/cams I may go that route

 

[mwjscn]

Looks like Boss springs are 1/4 the price of the other two. Since I have stock heads/cams I may go that route

You may already know this detail, but just wanted to highlight that you'll need two sets of M-6513-M50BR to do all 32 valves since they're sold in packs of 16 for some reason.

 

[EF1]

You may already know this detail, but just wanted to highlight that you'll need two sets of M-6513-M50BR to do all 32 valves since they're sold in packs of 16 for some reason.

Yes and they are $60 a set versus $400 for a set of 32 from Livernois or Pac.