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S197 Cujo Lite Build Thread Profile - S197 Mustangs

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61
50
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
Raytown, MO
Well, it makes more power than my CP autocross Mustang but it is also 500 pounds heavier. The new parts are more for better cooling and engine longevity than performance. I guess the rear brake upgrade will help performance. Someday I will likely build the motor (currently stock from heads to exhaust manifolds) and put the car on a diet and maybe even add aero but that is down the road a bit.
 

Bill Pemberton

0ld Ford Automotive Racing Terror
8,425
8,354
Exp. Type
Time Attack
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Blair, Nebraska
Time to post your build thread with pics on your CP Mustang also ------ there are some avid autocrossers on here that likely know that beast.
 
Last edited:

PatientZero

@restless_performance
825
865
Exp. Type
Autocross
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
Kansas City, Missouri
Hello Al! Please post the CP car too!

One of these days I'm going to make it out to time trials with you guys. I want to run my silver car in PD.

Time to post your build thread with pics on your CP Mustang also ------ there are some avid autocrossers on here that likely know that beast.
I can tell you from personal experience that it is formidable.
 
61
50
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
Raytown, MO
Well ultimately I think it was my fault. I had come into the hot pits to cool the engine off (we were running the course clockwise, low 90's air temp) and was pointing uphill with my foot on the brake for several minutes. I came out of the pits (at turn 10) and accelerated to 80 - 90 and when I hit the brakes the pedal went to the floor and I was along for the ride after that. I hit the tire wall with the right front of the car and it straightened out as it embedded into the wall. I think most of the damage is cosmetic but the radiator core support is bent (mostly on the right side) as is the A/C condenser. No fluids leaked and all 4 tires are inflated. The car ran fine when I got it home and off the trailer. I still have to strip off the damaged items and a more complete assessment of what can be saved can take place then.

I'm pretty sure the brake fluid boiled when I was in the pits which led to the non-existent pedal. So, two things learned: don't keep the brakes applied to the super hot rotors for more than a few seconds and I still have not solved the overheating issue. Maybe ditching the A/C will help keep coolant temps down in addition to knocking some weight out of the car. Speaking of overheating, maybe I need to try a different coolant. I am currently using the Motorcraft orange 50/50 blend. Is there something better out there?
 
61
50
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
Raytown, MO
Well, the gauge on the dash is pegged, the thermometer light on the dash is lit, and the water temp gauge on the L/S pod shows around 250. When this is happening, I back off and head for the pits at a moderate pace. Sometimes the dash gauge pops back to vertical and the light goes off before I get there but I usually wait a few minutes to let things cool further as it only takes another couple hot laps for it to happen again. It seems to be more of a problem at Hallett than at HPT.
 

Bill Pemberton

0ld Ford Automotive Racing Terror
8,425
8,354
Exp. Type
Time Attack
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Blair, Nebraska
Grill opening is a decent size but we found removing the grill helped a lot --pain in the butt to get out. Distilled water and 2 bottles of Water Wetter is the trick I use --- thanks to those high altitude TMO racer friends in Collie Rad Ohhh!
 

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