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CUP2 Wear on 2020 GT350

47
65
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
Under 3 Years
Erlanger, KY
I obliterated a brand new set of front R-spec (98Y) cup 2s at NCM in April. I was carrying far too much speed into 2 or 3 specific corners and had not heat cycled and let them rest a day before said abuse. I was understeering badly and the tires did their best to compensate for my bad technique. When I checked the rubber I was shocked, dismayed and educated at how much $ I had wasted by being too aggressive. My previous set had 5 days on them and over 8000 total miles. These had 2.5 days and 1000 miles. In this same time frame I put nearly 60 sessions and 9.5 days on a set of N-spec cup 2s, including setting PBs the week before retiring them, and they STILL have tread left, just heat cycled out.

Some additional food for thought to add to the wealth of experience being provided by the other more seasoned drivers.
 
20
26
Exp. Type
Time Attack
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Utah
Just finished a track day on a new set of Cup2's and after I put on CC plates and the wear is still horrible on the outside. I have FP lowering springs and Steeda CC plates. The shop said they set camber to -2.9, but I would have thought the wear would have been more even. Tire pressures at the end of the runs is between 34/35.

Is this consistent to what others are seeing or is the camber still jacked?
Tire pressure too high?

View attachment 79671
So on my 2020 I am running -3 Degrees Camber Front, -1.6 Rear Camber, Front 1mm toe out each wheel, Rear 1mm toe in each wheel and I have fabulous wear now and heat variance is very even. I suspect you are running toooo much toe out...
 
9
2
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
Under 3 Years
Atlanta
So on my 2020 I am running -3 Degrees Camber Front, -1.6 Rear Camber, Front 1mm toe out each wheel, Rear 1mm toe in each wheel and I have fabulous wear now and heat variance is very even. I suspect you are running toooo much toe out...
Thanks everyone. I just had the suspension rechecked an updated.. Here are the new settings. Going out the road Atlanta on Wednesday so I’ll report back any findings.E9B9D1C4-1181-4725-A0B2-E8B8D26725BB.jpeg
 
26
15
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Charlotte
That is a lot of rear camber and is that reading that the toe is toe'd in on both front and rear?
I agree. I wouldn’t expect this alignment to correct understeer on track. With these settings it will be especially important to focus on managing weight transfer. Too heavy on the throttle before opening up the wheel and your provoking understeer. [But really, isn’t that always the case!]
 
20
26
Exp. Type
Time Attack
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Utah
looks good except that rear camber is probably too much, the front end needs more as its initiating the turn vs following rear. front end has more compliance in the suspension as well and is what you are trying to counter with the - camber the rear has compliance too but not as much as the front axel . you may get inside shoulder wear with that much rear, I am running -1.6 rear
 
4,976
5,787
I should've paid more attention during setup..
These mustangs have to be driven into the corner, turned and driven out, overdrive them kills the handling and the tires. We had a guy that drove a Porsche and a Mustang, he would burn a set of stickers in a 40 minute practice session, 2 different animals.
 
Last edited:
20
26
Exp. Type
Time Attack
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Utah
I should've paid more attention during setup..
These mustangs have to be driven into the corner, turned and driven out, overdrive them kills the handling and the tires. We had a guy that drove a Pirsche and a Mustang, he would bother a set of stickers in a 40 minute practice session, 2 different animals.
Yep completely agree, overdrive them the outer edges will be hammered but the mustang needs camber for sure because there is so much compliance in the bushings
 
1,124
1,093
In the V6L
Thanks everyone. I just had the suspension rechecked an updated.. Here are the new settings. Going out the road Atlanta on Wednesday so I’ll report back any findings.View attachment 79964
If you have the opportunity, take your car out to a parking lot and thrash it around corners hard enough to induce heavy roll in the suspension. Low speed is fine. Then take the rear wheels off and inspect the inner sidewalls of your tires to make sure they're not rubbing the upper shock mounts or other stuff up there. -2.9 negative rear camber is way past anything that Ford Performance recommends, and it puts the top of the tire a lot closer to the inside of the wheel well than the recommended settings. The risk is that you get a tire failure from the tires rubbing the infrastructure inside the wheel well.
 
9
2
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
Under 3 Years
Atlanta
You prolly see a ton of rear ABS intervention when initiating hard braking...not much rear contact patch with that level of rear camber.
Yeah, I’m going back tomorrow morning to have them reset the rear to 2.2-2.4 and front at 2.6-3.0.

does anyone have suggestions on the correct toe and caster for F/R?

I know what the supplement guide says, but I’m I’m looking for real world experience
 
461
493
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Snowy North
Seen a lot of success with zero total toe (F), -1.8 deg camber, 0.3deg total toe in (R)...provided that you are on reasonable springs and ride heights.
 
48
73
Exp. Type
Time Attack
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
75024
Yeah, I’m going back tomorrow morning to have them reset the rear to 2.2-2.4 and front at 2.6-3.0.

does anyone have suggestions on the correct toe and caster for F/R?

I know what the supplement guide says, but I’m I’m looking for real world experience
I've run between 3mm-6mm (around 1/4") rear toe in, they feel about the same, both are good. I tried more but it did not improve rear grip on exit much. Usually run zero in front, because of some street driving. 0-3mm toe out should be fine, if you trailer.
 
26
15
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Charlotte
Yeah, I’m going back tomorrow morning to have them reset the rear to 2.2-2.4 and front at 2.6-3.0.

does anyone have suggestions on the correct toe and caster for F/R?

I know what the supplement guide says, but I’m I’m looking for real world experience
Hi @Jamesmcga The new specs you’re talking about seem like a step in the right direction for a track setup. That said, for the front I’d lean toward zero toe and about -3 degrees of camber. Get all you can, then subtract a full degree for the rear with a pinch of toe in. In my opinion, this basic setup will be pretty balanced and promote good tire wear. And because you won’t have both heavy camber and toe, tire wear should be fine for transit to/from the track as well if you drive it.
 

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