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cylinder head temp

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whats the safe range for our boss cylinder head temp ?

i will be going for track sessions soon and here im may get hot (middle east) somedays.

on normal driving conditions, i see 203-208 fahrenheit

on summer i see 208-223 .. and i think ivs seen my car going to 227 on day in the middle of summer.
 
eng90 said:
whats the safe range for our boss cylinder head temp ?

i will be going for track sessions soon and here im may get hot (middle east) somedays.

on normal driving conditions, i see 203-208 fahrenheit

on summer i see 208-223 .. and i think ivs seen my car going to 227 on day in the middle of summer.
Before switching to a billet grille (or removing the stock grille) I would see high 240s on track. Now I am 230-240 depending on ambient temp. The PCM will go into limp mode at 255ish.
 
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cloud9 said:
Before switching to a billet grille (or removing the stock grille) I would see high 240s on track. Now I am 230-240 depending on ambient temp. The PCM will go into limp mode at 255ish.

Well that sounds gr8 ... so im at a safe level if i didnt reach the 255 ?? As long as im under the 255 everything will be working fine and no harm on the heads right ?
 
eng90 said:
Well that sounds gr8 ... so im at a safe level if i didnt reach the 255 ?? As long as im under the 255 everything will be working fine and no harm on the heads right ?
I wouldn't want to be running that hot on a routine basis if you can help it. I would say if you're approaching 250 you should pull your stock grille and if it's routinely an issue switch to a more high flowing grille like the billet one from Roush or American Muscle. I very rarely topped 250 and your temp sensor will be pegged and the red temp light will illuminate at that point. I'm just pointing out where you will hit limp mode. I can't say what is ultimately "safe" but just relaying my experience over the past 4 years and my engine is still going strong. Cooler is definitely better for longevity.......
 
I've personally seen 264 degree cylinder head temps...inlet air was around 115 degrees...the joys of living in Phoenix....granted I wasn't on a track, but it did not go into limp mode.
 
redkey1651 said:
I've personally seen 264 degree cylinder head temps...inlet air was around 115 degrees...the joys of living in Phoenix....granted I wasn't on a track, but it did not go into limp mode.
That's interesting. I was told by a Ford engineer they thought it was in the 255 range. I wonder where it does go into limp mode then.....
 
My mistake....I found a picture I took that day...cylinder head temp was 246 degrees....inlet air temperature was 158 degrees...so you are probably right with the limp mode temp around 255 degrees....living in the Phoenix area I may find out just driving normal as hot as it gets here !!! My apologies for causing any confusion
 

ArizonaBOSS

Because racecar.
Moderator
8,730
2,734
Arizona, USA
redkey1651 said:
My mistake....I found a picture I took that day...cylinder head temp was 246 degrees....inlet air temperature was 158 degrees...so you are probably right with the limp mode temp around 255 degrees....living in the Phoenix area I may find out just driving normal as hot as it gets here !!! My apologies for causing any confusion

Where in Phoenix are you? I am in Chandler. There is a track event Jan 24/25 at Wild Horse Pass East Track if you want to come see some racing or get on-track yourself... www.proautosports.com
 
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So a billet grille has better cooling than the boss and boss302s grille ??

I also want to remove the fog light covers but i dont know how.
 
eng90 said:
So a billet grille has better cooling than the boss and boss302s grille ??

I also want to remove the fog light covers but i dont know how.
To save you some time, removing the fogs or changing to the 302S grille doesn't solve the problem. The issue is with the horizontal bars that block the direct path to the radiator. If you remove your stock grille, you will see that the horizontal bars get wider toward the engine bay and significantly restrict the amount of air getting to the radiator. Opening up the fogs either by drilling the fake holes or removing them completely and screening like the 302S grille has no measurable effect on cooling. There are some good threads on this on here as it was the first issue those of us tracking the car encountered. The simplest and most cost effective solution is to just remove the grille on track days. That said, it opens you up to potential radiator damage and frankly looks less than ideal, but it's effective. The next best option from a cost standpoint is the billet grille style from either Roush or American Muscle in conjunction with a GT grille surround.
 

ArizonaBOSS

Because racecar.
Moderator
8,730
2,734
Arizona, USA
cloud9 said:
To save you some time, removing the fogs or changing to the 302S grille doesn't solve the problem. The issue is with the horizontal bars that block the direct path to the radiator. If you remove your stock grille, you will see that the horizontal bars get wider toward the engine bay and significantly restrict the amount of air getting to the radiator. Opening up the fogs either by drilling the fake holes or removing them completely and screening like the 302S grille has no measurable effect on cooling. There are some good threads on this on here as it was the first issue those of us tracking the car encountered. The simplest and most cost effective solution is to just remove the grille on track days. That said, it opens you up to potential radiator damage and frankly looks less than ideal, but it's effective. The next best option from a cost standpoint is the billet grille style from either Roush or American Muscle in conjunction with a GT grille surround.

It's all true.
 
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arabbit said:
I thought they were talking about the 12 grille.

Im confused too bro , i think the 2013 grilles are better than 2012 ... and maybe they were refering to the 2012s ??

Lol i just donno
 
cloud9 said:
To save you some time, removing the fogs or changing to the 302S grille doesn't solve the problem. The issue is with the horizontal bars that block the direct path to the radiator. If you remove your stock grille, you will see that the horizontal bars get wider toward the engine bay and significantly restrict the amount of air getting to the radiator. Opening up the fogs either by drilling the fake holes or removing them completely and screening like the 302S grille has no measurable effect on cooling. There are some good threads on this on here as it was the first issue those of us tracking the car encountered. The simplest and most cost effective solution is to just remove the grille on track days. That said, it opens you up to potential radiator damage and frankly looks less than ideal, but it's effective. The next best option from a cost standpoint is the billet grille style from either Roush or American Muscle in conjunction with a GT grille surround.

Isn't it also pretty easy to cut out a bunch of the plastic and paint the edges black w/o creating a mess? you would think a dremel would work and maybe a hack saw blade. It would preserve the stock GT grill and let it flow. Anyone try it?
 
I haven't had a chance to really track my 13 yet. But the honeycomb grille with the fogs out looks like it would flow much better than the 12 grille. But I will say this: I've had both a 12 and 13 Boss, and after doing drag races in them, I'd pop the hood and the 12 was very hot in the engine bay (like burn my hand on the prop rod hot), the 13 was noticeably cooler. Probably also has to do with the 13 hood vents. Not very scientific but it's my experience so far.
 

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