I don't believe this kit includes the hub mounted ducts -- it shows only the facia ducts. The GT4 cars use the stock 350(R) facia ducts, cut short and then attach 4" cooling ducts, rather than these that are used on the FP350S
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Dedicated Track conversion
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I don't believe this kit includes the hub mounted ducts -- it shows only the facia ducts. The GT4 cars use the stock 350(R) facia ducts, cut short and then attach 4" cooling ducts, rather than these that are used on the FP350S
I contacted trackspec and they do not make the 350S center duct.
Looking at pictures, there have been various iterations of hoods and ducts. Of course the current GT4 stuff must be the exactly the same for homologation purposes.
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- #323
You should come out to Waterford hills this Saturday. Last I saw, there is 1 last spot available. $190. 40 cars max
Any more pics of this car?
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- #327
Fred did you pull your transmission out sitting on jack stands ? I’m thinking of pulling mine to replaceclutch in my driveway
Yes I did. Sorry to hear about your clutch.
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Contacted Watson and they said they can't sell the center vent yet until more FP350S customer cars are delivered. In a month or so Ford will decide who will sell the vent to the public, FP or Watson. So maybe I wait for that part, as the GT4 piece being difficult to get my hands on. Its interesting the center vent was not part of the original S car bodywork.
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- #329
Will be dropping of my car at Capaldi Racing on Monday. Hope the can fix my mode selection issue.
Meanwhile look what they are working on.
These were 3D printed. They have a quote for tooling but won’t likely go to market as the economics don’t make sense due to the small population of potential buyers.
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Meanwhile look what they are working on.
These were 3D printed. They have a quote for tooling but won’t likely go to market as the economics don’t make sense due to the small population of potential buyers.
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Good luck with the Mode issue.
Seems like making a mold from the 3D Print and laying up Carbon Fiber would be a better route for low production, and reduce un-sprung mass.
Seems like making a mold from the 3D Print and laying up Carbon Fiber would be a better route for low production, and reduce un-sprung mass.
Nice buck there
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- #332
I am working with them to allow me to pay for the tooling so we can make CF parts. Ill know more next week. I believe we have a half dozen guys that would be interested in this solution. The work done in CAD and 3D printing is very impressive. If they don't use the prototype it all goes to waste. One of the challenges is that the Brembo rotor ID is different compared to AP.
Re @8250RPM post, they need to ensure the gap to the rotor ID is minimized. The CF GT4 ducts do a way better job than the pics of the FP350S versions
I agree. I’m not impressed by the FP350S ducts myself. They don’t even enclose the rotor ID, plus I’m not crazy about the huge duct housing on the Watson design.
The Capaldi ducts are designed for oem GT350 brembos. They are over 1 inch to small.
But they enclose the rotor ID much like the GT4 design. As mentioned the problem is they are to small for AP rotors. [emoji853]
This could be resolved.
Here’s the oem rotor vs the AP rotor I.D.
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Capaldi are selling the facia ducts and hoses for the FP350S, which will fit the GT350/R. If they want to maximize their volume they should design the hub ducts, separately, for both AP and Brembo.
You are correct.
On the GT4 though they keep the OEM grille facia ducts and attach the hose directly to the duct.
I like the FP350S facia brake air deflectors.
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- #337
So, what will it take for the to do an AP version?
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- #339
I am not sure if the Capaldi fascia ducts are a replacement for the factory ducts or they just supply the adapters to the factor ducts.
I had a heating / cooling shop make up the adapters from the factory duct to the hose in aluminum. Cost almost nothing. The guy did it during his lunch break. I did cut up my factory duct though. I think Ford wants like $70 for the factory duct.
Notice there is a hole for a plastic pin that holds the duct in place. Impossible to get to it though with the spoiler on.
With the hose attached and taped up seams
Cut the factory duct short since its a steep angle from the spoiler to just inside center of the wheel well. Want to run the hose next to frame so keeping the duct short helps minimize the angle.
On the hub side I had him make me a bracket that I attached to the bottom two shock bolts. Just have to remove the shock bolts to get the bracket in
He used stainless steel instead of aluminum since he said that the 90 deg bend will stress at the shock and could tear over time. Notice the bolt head at the hub that would keep the bracket from moving towards the rotor.
I see now from what is being discussed that the distance here from the bracket to the rotor is probably not optimal, too far away but that would be easy to remedy by extending the alu tube through the bracket up to the hub and even possibly more oval. Was surprised how malleable alu really is.
It does feed air to the center of the hub though
This was a prototype piece we did in Alu just for fit. Redid the bracket in SS later
Here it is with the hose hooked up
Another thing I learned. Remove the pin that pulls the pop rivet together and put it in by hand and then use a ball peen hammer to crush the other end of the rivet. Make for a almost smooth finish. Impossible to do with the broken off pin in there.
I used 3" hose because of the clearance issues at full lock of the steering. It interferes no matter what you do. I just used a piece of wood and gently squished the hose into an oval where the tire hits the hose. You have max 1 to 1.25 inches from the tire to the frame at full lock. Hose has wire in it and forms nicely. Its street driven and I am just careful at full lock to go very slowly. 3" also fits the factory duct perfectly. Going to 4" you would have to make the adapter more oval.
I might go back and replace the hose with 4" now that it seems to work and rubbing except at full lock isn't really an issue. Might also try the GT350S ducts in the spoiler out front to help duct more air at the inlet up front. Mine is black so it won't look too bad.
Hope this helps someone! Just talk to some heating / cooling place that makes their own ducts. The guy that did mine actually had fun doing it for me knowing what it was for!
I had a heating / cooling shop make up the adapters from the factory duct to the hose in aluminum. Cost almost nothing. The guy did it during his lunch break. I did cut up my factory duct though. I think Ford wants like $70 for the factory duct.
Notice there is a hole for a plastic pin that holds the duct in place. Impossible to get to it though with the spoiler on.
With the hose attached and taped up seams
Cut the factory duct short since its a steep angle from the spoiler to just inside center of the wheel well. Want to run the hose next to frame so keeping the duct short helps minimize the angle.
On the hub side I had him make me a bracket that I attached to the bottom two shock bolts. Just have to remove the shock bolts to get the bracket in
He used stainless steel instead of aluminum since he said that the 90 deg bend will stress at the shock and could tear over time. Notice the bolt head at the hub that would keep the bracket from moving towards the rotor.
I see now from what is being discussed that the distance here from the bracket to the rotor is probably not optimal, too far away but that would be easy to remedy by extending the alu tube through the bracket up to the hub and even possibly more oval. Was surprised how malleable alu really is.
It does feed air to the center of the hub though
This was a prototype piece we did in Alu just for fit. Redid the bracket in SS later
Here it is with the hose hooked up
Another thing I learned. Remove the pin that pulls the pop rivet together and put it in by hand and then use a ball peen hammer to crush the other end of the rivet. Make for a almost smooth finish. Impossible to do with the broken off pin in there.
I used 3" hose because of the clearance issues at full lock of the steering. It interferes no matter what you do. I just used a piece of wood and gently squished the hose into an oval where the tire hits the hose. You have max 1 to 1.25 inches from the tire to the frame at full lock. Hose has wire in it and forms nicely. Its street driven and I am just careful at full lock to go very slowly. 3" also fits the factory duct perfectly. Going to 4" you would have to make the adapter more oval.
I might go back and replace the hose with 4" now that it seems to work and rubbing except at full lock isn't really an issue. Might also try the GT350S ducts in the spoiler out front to help duct more air at the inlet up front. Mine is black so it won't look too bad.
Hope this helps someone! Just talk to some heating / cooling place that makes their own ducts. The guy that did mine actually had fun doing it for me knowing what it was for!
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