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Diff cooler location

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1 old racer

Too blessed to be stressed and old track whore,
130
270
Exp. Level
20+ Years
fontana ca.
I am installing a Diff cooler using a Derale cooler with fan and a Titan pump plumbed with 8AN hoses and hardware. I understand the most common place to install a diff cooler on our S550's is to mount it to the underside of the spare tire tube. What about inside the spare tire tube? has anyone installed theirs there? My thoughts are less heat from the exhaust and easier maintenance. What are the down sides if any with this install. I had this setup with my 2009 CTSV and seamed to work great. All comments will be welcomed.
 
531
364
sfo
Well this is a deep topic. IMO you do not want anything that burns in the cabin with you and no hot fluids. So anything that can leak and burn needs to be behind a firewall or contained. I am a real chicken. My car is super safe. If you do as you propose then make a firewall like the wall between the trunk and back seats but out of aluminum. That's what I will do when I get around to it. Other development issue take priority.

In my pic I did a hybrid where cooler is under the tire tub and the pump is above because the stock box o smog valve charchol canister nonsense is still in my car occupying space where I would ideally mount the tilton pump. That's why I boxed my pump in with this enclosure. I just a pattern from cardboard and then just bent it.

The next big issue is aero. In the old preaero 70's the 911 porsche guys used to cut holes in the lexan rear window to let the high pressure air out because they also ran windows open. The theory was poking holes in a parchute letting air spill out. It was found that the holes actually increased drag if you encourage air to enter the car. It was better to have a sealed car and the parachute full of air full and any extra air rolling past the open windows making less drag. True or false? I have been taught this is true. I do not know it to be true but assuming that it is your method would increase drag. You don't want that. However you would move lots of air to cool the diff. I guess if you are chasing 10ths' it's important.

I have thought about going your way too. If I do that I will firewall in front of the tire tub and try to seal off the inside of the car (speaker holes) because of the aero issues. If someone can convince me that old 911 theory is wrong then I would be saved a lot of work trying to seal up the parachute. .

The final issue is that performance guys run coilovers. The OE length endlinks that are often swapped out for adjustable endlinks like Steeda do not fit with common Ford Performance swaybars. In order to clear the coilovers you need a longer endlink. There are probably many out there but Whiteline was the low hanging fruit and I got the 195mm size about 8". The issue with swaybar is important because when you run through the full wheel travel and therefore swaybar travel you can pinch holes coming off the diff plugs in the articulating swaybar. So you need to plan for this in the hose routing. The shorter the endlink the less impact on hose routing. So if you are still using divorced spring you might be OK but check your range of motion.

I guess this is more than anyone wants to know.


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1 old racer

Too blessed to be stressed and old track whore,
130
270
Exp. Level
20+ Years
fontana ca.
It actually calls for a 15 min cool down after 2 hours of run time. I have never ran pump on previous cars more the 20-30 track and about 15-20 mins pit time. I am plagued with being a creature of habit. This is the same set up I had on my V three or four years ago and the same set up I had on my Honda S2000 years ago. If it is a good set up for the mustang then why change it, if it is better on the underside im open to it. Just trying not to be too set in my ways. You old giuys know what I mean.
 

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