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Driver Rear Caliper keeps failing

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352
OP, I think I know the answer but just double checking.... you mentioned in post 8 that you run with TCS off, do you also run with AdvanceTrac (stability control) fully off? I don't have an '05 but at least in later years they are two very different systems and different settings. Make sure it is all totally off. Good luck solving your problem.
 
48
41
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
Under 3 Years
Fort Worth
I've just been hitting the button. I was told the 05 and 06 don't have a secret disable process. I've tried the "hold the button and brake" process and it doesn't seem to do anything.
 

Norm Peterson

Corner Barstool Sitter
939
712
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
a few miles east of Philly
Sorry for the confusion, I don't think your '05 has stability control. Carry on.
This ^^^

Per the 2005 MVMS document that's been floating around ever since, no 2005 Mustang features what only gets a one-line mention of something called "yaw control".

Based on the advertising brochures of the time, AdvanceTrac wasn't available on any Mustang up through the 2009 models. Not even as an option. Can't say I ever wished I had it on my '08.


Norm
 
1,119
1,110
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
Lenoir City TN
All the remans fail. Only get OEM. Its because they sandblast the remans and they will leak from the pistons with any track duty. Also look into rear Girodisc to help with heat. I would crack the centric and oem replacement rotors in one event. Since I put the Girodisc on rear I've run 15 events on them and they haven't cracked yet. And the heat dissipation is forsure beneficial to those junky rear calipers.
I am thinking you are right on this. The rear factory calipers on my 2011 were replaced about 6 months ago with Napa total eclipse premium remanufactured calipers with lifetime warranty. I put street tires on 2 weeks ago and everything was fine. I was putting track wheels back on Sunday before loading up for a couple of track days at GingerMan in Michigan. Everything was fine until I got to the last wheel (drivers side rear) and noticed some dripping fluid. I made it Napa before they closed and got a replacement and installed it. The pads were also thin so I decided to change both rears. I pushed the piston back in on the passenger side, installed the pads and started to bleed them. The passenger side was now leaking and Napa was closed. I was back at Napa at 7:30 am Monday morning when they opened for another caliper. Car was not the trailer and I was heading to Michigan a little after 10.
 
1,119
1,110
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
Lenoir City TN
All the remans fail. Only get OEM. Its because they sandblast the remans and they will leak from the pistons with any track duty. Also look into rear Girodisc to help with heat. I would crack the centric and oem replacement rotors in one event. Since I put the Girodisc on rear I've run 15 events on them and they haven't cracked yet. And the heat dissipation is forsure beneficial to those junky rear calipers.
The replacement remans from Napa are leaking after 2 track days. I am going to the dealer tomorrow for a set of new oem calipers.
 
1,119
1,110
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
Lenoir City TN
All the remans fail. Only get OEM. Its because they sandblast the remans and they will leak from the pistons with any track duty. Also look into rear Girodisc to help with heat. I would crack the centric and oem replacement rotors in one event. Since I put the Girodisc on rear I've run 15 events on them and they haven't cracked yet. And the heat dissipation is forsure beneficial to those junky rear calipers.
The replacement remans from Napa are leaking after 2 track days. I am going to the dealer tomorrow for a set of new oem calipers.
Good plan. Haha
I didn't have much of a choice this time. The Napa calipers were installed in April. I found the first one leaking while changing to track wheels on a Sunday afternoon. Napa was my only choice since I was leaving Monday morning. The passenger side wasn't leaking until after I pushed the piston back in to change pads. It was leaking while bleeding. It is still hard to believe that both are leaking after only two track days.
 
1,119
1,110
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
Lenoir City TN
Be sure the dealership parts department is providing a new caliper. Not all are new.
I will make sure that I get new OEM from the dealer. Two sets of remans from Napa since April is crazy. The first set had 4 track days and a few street miles. This set only had 2 track days and maybe 20 street miles. I trailered to the track and took my truck to the hotel at night. I only drove the car on track and to the gas station.
 
75
91
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
Langley, BC
that's nuts, somebody must have decent rebuild parts for these calipers.. where's OP Tim?
Rebuilding these look like a pain.... Easier to just buy a new caliper and swap em out. Wish someone made an upgraded caliper like billet aluminum or something with better piston. Very few would be interested though and investment would be high
 

PatientZero

@restless_performance
825
865
Exp. Type
Autocross
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
Kansas City, Missouri

xr7

TMO Addict?
708
822
Exp. Type
Autocross
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
Minnesota
Certainly easier. Arguably smarter and safer.
New or rebuild your caliper seems like the only two options. Rebuilt components have turned into another source of crap. I bought a set of half-shafts for my daughters Civic. The splines were so bunged up that they would not slide into the trans or wheel hubs. NAPA " they are all like that" you just need to "tap" them "carefully" into place. Yea, bull****, give me my money back.
 
1,119
1,110
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
Lenoir City TN
I went to the dealer today and there are two versions of the rear caliper. One is specified for the boss, shelby and GT's with performance brake package. The other is specified for the base model GT. My car calls for the performance brake package version which is on national back order with no in stock date. The part # for the base GT is available. Does anyone know for certain what the difference is? I can see that the performance package spec caliper is finished in black while the base model one is bare metal, but did they put better seals or something in the performance pack calipers?
 
6,363
8,188
I went to the dealer today and there are two versions of the rear caliper. One is specified for the boss, shelby and GT's with performance brake package. The other is specified for the base model GT. My car calls for the performance brake package version which is on national back order with no in stock date. The part # for the base GT is available. Does anyone know for certain what the difference is? I can see that the performance package spec caliper is finished in black while the base model one is bare metal, but did they put better seals or something in the performance pack calipers?
I'm going to take a complete shot in the dark here..
It MIGHT be that the difference between the two is actually the BRACKET which might take a longer, or thicker rotor. This was the exact case with the SN95s.
Your results may vary
 
Last edited:
334
352
This also is a shot in the dark question, but is there anything with the lateral/axial play in a solid rear axle that could cause one side to wear and possibly heat up more than the other on track? Maybe if the play is significant enough it could prematurely wear out the caliper? I understand the axial play is a reason you can't run fixed calipers on a SRA without the risk of pad knockback, correct?

Sort of similar to the OP and perhaps relevant to his problem, I've noticed my left rear brakes typically wear faster than the right rear at recent track days. AdvanceTrac totally off. The wear is even on the inside and outside pads, there is no sign of binding, sticking caliper, leaking, or overheating, but the left wears faster. I can't remember when I first started noticing this. 140k miles on the car, all original rear axle.
 

Norm Peterson

Corner Barstool Sitter
939
712
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
a few miles east of Philly
This also is a shot in the dark question, but is there anything with the lateral/axial play in a solid rear axle that could cause one side to wear and possibly heat up more than the other on track? Maybe if the play is significant enough it could prematurely wear out the caliper? I understand the axial play is a reason you can't run fixed calipers on a SRA without the risk of pad knockback, correct?

Sort of similar to the OP and perhaps relevant to his problem, I've noticed my left rear brakes typically wear faster than the right rear at recent track days. AdvanceTrac totally off. The wear is even on the inside and outside pads, there is no sign of binding, sticking caliper, leaking, or overheating, but the left wears faster. I can't remember when I first started noticing this. 140k miles on the car, all original rear axle.
You might want to open up the pumpkin and inspect the C-clips, crosspin and side gear surfaces that the C-clips ride against as the axle shafts move for wear.


Norm
 

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