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Discussion in 'Track Cars and Other Cars Forum' started by KUKeeper30, Jul 16, 2018.
Nice work. Doesn't look much tighter than the 2V and about the same as I remember the Terminator 4V.
The 2V motor with iron block was rated at 600 lbs. The coyote is 440 lbs. Its about 1.75 inches or so shorter as well. Grant is correct about the 4v reference on width. Its tight fit around the hydoboost area.
Another weekend, another chunk of progress. Slowly figuring out wiring, while completing many of the smaller tasks that remain. Highlights:
Completed wiring in the new fuel system, and fitted battery box to trunk. Still need to route main battery cable to engine bay.
Clutch cable installed, shifter fitted.
Installed steering gear. It was a pain keeping clearance between the I-shaft and subframe area, and the oil pan but figured it out.
Started figuring out the intake. I have an AirRaid kit, apparently made for an '11-14 car... going to need to modify the included air box, or fab a new one so that I don't have a hot-air-intake. But, intake manifold is back on the engine, and a lot of wire harness bundles to sort through. Also need to figure out lower rad hose, as I currently do not have a way for the reservoir to tie into the system as of yet.
As always, still lots to do. Have a target 'first-run' date of early October. Not sure how realistic that is, we'll see... another work trip has me out of town for a few weeks, another pause in the work (and posts).
Well, it's been a minute since I updated this... Life did a great job of catching up with me. Between some work trips, wedding planning/prep activities, and numerous hockey skates, I have made a little progress on the car... not nearly as much as I had hoped (was hoping to make it to a Grattan event a few weeks ago for shakedown, but was not even close to completing..)
That said, a few things have been done, and a few other big steps in progress.
Rear end is completely put together. Cold-end exhaust, axle, TA / PHB, rear coilovers, brakes, driveshaft, fuel return line all installed/torqued.
Front driver side fusebox / PDB moved outside engine bay, behind front quarter panel to make room for P/S fuild reservoir
Rad was installed to test-fit, then removed... plenty of room, and have a solid plan for upper/lower hoses and reservoir hose.
Started figuring out wiring on passenger-side. CCRM will be retained, mainly to carry load of circuit for rad fans. Trying to figure out what all needs to stay, and what can be cut out.
Recently, I paused on wiring to install the front suspension. As I relocate a bunch of wires, fuseboxes, and such, I want to make sure I will not be interfering with any of the front suspension links. Not pictured, but front bar is on and driver-side suspension is mostly installed.
Main tasks remaining:
-Exhaust (have all parts, just need to cut off 'trumpets' at ends of midpipe and cold-end pipes for 3"-2.5" reducers)
-Finish front suspension
-Find home for new PCM, P/S reservoir
-Modify lines to P/S reservoir for new location
-Connect fuel lines, find home for fuel press. regulator
-Wire interior components, tap necessary signal wires for ignition
-Run power cable from trunk-mounted battery to power post up front
-Clean up interior, install seats/harnesses
-Fill fluids (diff, trans, P/S, coolant, engine oil)
-Rebuild front calipers, bleed system (seals around piston look shot)
-Shakedown drive, check for issues/leaks/clearance
Getting those "trumpets" tuned in may be your least concern...have fun!
Seems I have gone from weekly updates, to monthly updates... fall yard work has taken a lot of wrenching time away. That's my excuse, and sticking to it.
Pictures to be updated tomorrow (hopefully...)
-Installed front suspension to get an idea of where wires can / cannot go
-Brake system re-installed, front caliper seals replaced (old ones were pretty worn)
-PCM bolted to body inside engine bay
-Further planning on getting exhaust back together
Now, a call for advice...
For those that have done the swap, or for anyone with knowledge... I have the clutch 'CBT' (clutch bottom-travel) switch, but not sure if I want to go through figuring out how to mount it in a way where the existing clutch pedal can actuate it. As I see it, my options are:
-Figure it out (not fun, time-consuming, fab time required)
-Delete the switch (resistor across the two wires?)
If I delete the switch altogether, would that mess with the base tune? In other words, does the PCM look for a 'clutch engaged / disengaged' condition to handle revs between shifts or anything like that?
Saw one of those new Corvettes today.Real low!!!! Nice looking!! but not for me at this stage of the game.............
Another big chunk of work done this weekend..
-Brake system tested, no leaks found.
-Further cleaned up wiring, zip-tied and taped a lot of old connectors out of the way (don't want to eliminate anything until this thing is successfully running)
-Passenger-side fender re-installed, driver-side fender installing shortly
-Completed routing of main power cable for battery to engine bay, power post for fuse installed
-Exhaust system installed with the help of some 3" - 2.5" reducer pipes and some clamps
-Fuel return line re-routed so that it is further away from exhaust pipes & headers
Hoping it runs before the end of 2018 at this point, the end is at least in sight now!
Moving forward is always a good direction!