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Discussion in 'Track Cars and Other Cars Forum' started by KUKeeper30, Jul 16, 2018.
Nice work. Doesn't look much tighter than the 2V and about the same as I remember the Terminator 4V.
The 2V motor with iron block was rated at 600 lbs. The coyote is 440 lbs. Its about 1.75 inches or so shorter as well. Grant is correct about the 4v reference on width. Its tight fit around the hydoboost area.
Another weekend, another chunk of progress. Slowly figuring out wiring, while completing many of the smaller tasks that remain. Highlights:
Completed wiring in the new fuel system, and fitted battery box to trunk. Still need to route main battery cable to engine bay.
Clutch cable installed, shifter fitted.
Installed steering gear. It was a pain keeping clearance between the I-shaft and subframe area, and the oil pan but figured it out.
Started figuring out the intake. I have an AirRaid kit, apparently made for an '11-14 car... going to need to modify the included air box, or fab a new one so that I don't have a hot-air-intake. But, intake manifold is back on the engine, and a lot of wire harness bundles to sort through. Also need to figure out lower rad hose, as I currently do not have a way for the reservoir to tie into the system as of yet.
As always, still lots to do. Have a target 'first-run' date of early October. Not sure how realistic that is, we'll see... another work trip has me out of town for a few weeks, another pause in the work (and posts).
Well, it's been a minute since I updated this... Life did a great job of catching up with me. Between some work trips, wedding planning/prep activities, and numerous hockey skates, I have made a little progress on the car... not nearly as much as I had hoped (was hoping to make it to a Grattan event a few weeks ago for shakedown, but was not even close to completing..)
That said, a few things have been done, and a few other big steps in progress.
Rear end is completely put together. Cold-end exhaust, axle, TA / PHB, rear coilovers, brakes, driveshaft, fuel return line all installed/torqued.
Front driver side fusebox / PDB moved outside engine bay, behind front quarter panel to make room for P/S fuild reservoir
Rad was installed to test-fit, then removed... plenty of room, and have a solid plan for upper/lower hoses and reservoir hose.
Started figuring out wiring on passenger-side. CCRM will be retained, mainly to carry load of circuit for rad fans. Trying to figure out what all needs to stay, and what can be cut out.
Recently, I paused on wiring to install the front suspension. As I relocate a bunch of wires, fuseboxes, and such, I want to make sure I will not be interfering with any of the front suspension links. Not pictured, but front bar is on and driver-side suspension is mostly installed.
Main tasks remaining:
-Exhaust (have all parts, just need to cut off 'trumpets' at ends of midpipe and cold-end pipes for 3"-2.5" reducers)
-Finish front suspension
-Find home for new PCM, P/S reservoir
-Modify lines to P/S reservoir for new location
-Connect fuel lines, find home for fuel press. regulator
-Wire interior components, tap necessary signal wires for ignition
-Run power cable from trunk-mounted battery to power post up front
-Clean up interior, install seats/harnesses
-Fill fluids (diff, trans, P/S, coolant, engine oil)
-Rebuild front calipers, bleed system (seals around piston look shot)
-Shakedown drive, check for issues/leaks/clearance
Getting those "trumpets" tuned in may be your least concern...have fun!
Seems I have gone from weekly updates, to monthly updates... fall yard work has taken a lot of wrenching time away. That's my excuse, and sticking to it.
Pictures to be updated tomorrow (hopefully...)
-Installed front suspension to get an idea of where wires can / cannot go
-Brake system re-installed, front caliper seals replaced (old ones were pretty worn)
-PCM bolted to body inside engine bay
-Further planning on getting exhaust back together
Now, a call for advice...
For those that have done the swap, or for anyone with knowledge... I have the clutch 'CBT' (clutch bottom-travel) switch, but not sure if I want to go through figuring out how to mount it in a way where the existing clutch pedal can actuate it. As I see it, my options are:
-Figure it out (not fun, time-consuming, fab time required)
-Delete the switch (resistor across the two wires?)
If I delete the switch altogether, would that mess with the base tune? In other words, does the PCM look for a 'clutch engaged / disengaged' condition to handle revs between shifts or anything like that?
Saw one of those new Corvettes today.Real low!!!! Nice looking!! but not for me at this stage of the game.............
Another big chunk of work done this weekend..
-Brake system tested, no leaks found.
-Further cleaned up wiring, zip-tied and taped a lot of old connectors out of the way (don't want to eliminate anything until this thing is successfully running)
-Passenger-side fender re-installed, driver-side fender installing shortly
-Completed routing of main power cable for battery to engine bay, power post for fuse installed
-Exhaust system installed with the help of some 3" - 2.5" reducer pipes and some clamps
-Fuel return line re-routed so that it is further away from exhaust pipes & headers
Hoping it runs before the end of 2018 at this point, the end is at least in sight now!
Moving forward is always a good direction!
So, this project has been 'on-again, off-again' ever since i last updated this thread.. work, life, house projects, etc took priority. It happens..
It all came to today, the first start. I will be taking more pictures later on, but here's a video and an underhood shot:
Special thanks to my dad for helping, and acting as 'fire safety'...
Lots of small battles along the way, and a few creative ideas formed as well.
Still plenty to finish up.. chasing a small oil leak at the remote oil filter mount, as well as a 'grumpy' power steering pump for starters.
It’s alive. Nice job!
"Don't forget to smile" was the most important thing!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Couldn't help but smile... on the first key-on, after confirming fuel pressure, the car started right up as if it had not just sat for 1.5 years..
It has an odd idle after key-on, I think I have a vacuum line issue (have an unidentified connection at the TB that currently has a vacuum cap, but should probably vent to somewhere). Still have the oil leak, going to install some aux gauges for water temp & oil temp, and oil pressure. Fuel pressure regulator makes an odd noise at idle. Need to chase a bad ground wire for the cluster (right blinker stays steady on, even if the headlight switch is turned 'off')
Setting other little things like suspension ride height, and roughing-in the toe and bump steer. Interior seat brackets need a few holes drilled for the harness lap belts. A few no-longer-needed wiring harness pigtails need to be secured until they are given the 'ok' to be cut off.
Once the above small list is done, the car can get on the road, accumulate break-in miles, and the hope is for this thread to get populated with track videos by the end of June.
No pictures/video yet, but the car just completed it's first shakedown (street) drive over the weekend. After figuring out some alternator issues (bad internals in the brand-new alternator??) and a bit of oil seepage (bad AN fitting), the car is ready for some light street miles on new suspension and driveline. Dyno time scheduled for next Monday, first event at a local road course scheduled for 6/23. Looking forward to it!
More in-depth test drive yesterday, battery held charge fine, car is loud and sounds great. Staying at 20-30% throttle for now, no more than 5K RPM. Using a WiFi OBDII scanner paired with my phone for engine rpm, temp, etc until I can figure out wiring the old cluster to the new engine. Will drive to work a few times, then get on it more as it wears in. Found some holes in pedal map, hopefully dyno next week will fix it, then on to first OTD next weekend!
What tune are you running on it right now? The stock Ford Performance tune is set up for the stock air box for the year of motor you have. (15-17 ?) Hopefully you have addressed that seeing you have the larger JLT on there. The larger diameter at the mass air flow sensor changes all those algorithms. Your damn near there. Great job! Cant wait to see what numbers you make!
I ran into the same issue as you with the exhaust. I did a 3 inch to 2.5 reducer as well and reused my 2.5 exhaust. Its costing me some hp and trq i'm sure. I'm looking to switch over to the 3 inch mid pipe and run dumps this summer.
Exactly! If this is the tune exactly as it came from Ford Performance, then it's going to run chronically lean with that big tube on the intake. The engine will think there's less air going in than there actually is. It'll have other side-effects too because a lot of the engine functions like spark and cam timing also rely on accurate data from the mass air flow sensor. The good news is that it's a quick fix for someone with the technology to do it.
Note to the OP - if you want to see how the engine really performs, install the inlet duct that came with the controls pack on the engine. Even if you don't drive it anywhere because there's no air filter, it might make the engine run better in your garage.
Agreed on all. Which is why I am being very gentle during these first few break-in miles. Break-in is more for driveline (rebuilt rear axle, new clutch/flywheel, new suspension components) than powertrain, as well as to determine any troublesome battery/fluid leak/loose fastener stuff before dyno. Will be trailering the car to dyno next Monday to be tuned for the different intake & exhaust, after that it should be good for further familiarization miles on-road before it's first track event.
As for the exhaust, what surprises me the most is just how much this engine sounds like a loud 2V versus a Coyote. It makes sense when one further thinks about re-using the standard cat-back from the New Edge, but just something I never thought about until I heard it under load for the first time.
Will be sure to do this - thanks for advice!