DSS Driveshaft Failed

[TymeSlayer]

Speculation was that I may have damaged mine on the install. !st or more than likely the 2nd tyme. I took it out after the first install because I had been reading about some issues with this one-piece DS and decided to install a BMR front driveshaft safely loop. I believe the boot may have been done at this point as I had to bang on the CV part to get it to fit properly. The boot helps keep the grease in there and eventually it was completely greaseless when the noises came. First humming and then loud chirping. I was fortunate enough to get if off before too much damage was done but DSS replaced the entire CV joint I do not have the repaired DS back on yet as I'm waiting on some caster/camber plates and Koni Sport Yellows before I try to get it all installed at one tyme.

 

[Black Boss]

No, 3 5/8" is good. Lee told me u can stretch it to 4". 3 1/2" is ideal. Do you have an adjustable upper or lower control arm?

Installed the Aluminum DSS drive-shaft yesterday.

Measured gap at rear flange after adjusting pinion angle and it's out of spec by just over 1/16" (a shade over 3 13/16"). So I need to call DSS Monday

Although it sounds like from Flyboygsxr's post I may be OK?

 

[steveespo]

I think you are OK. Call Lee at DSS and give him the particulars of your setup. He may suggest a spacer, and the will send it to you for free with the longer bolts. I did it on my aluminum which I thought was causing a top end vibration but in fact was not. I have since swapped to DSS Carbon Fiber and the measurement was spot in the middle at 3 1/2"
Steve

 

[Black Boss]

Thanks Steve. Will call Lee in the am. Given the few failures a 5/16" spacer to get me to nominal seems like a good move....

 

[Black Boss]

DSS confirmed that the spec is intentionally tighter than needed to avoid installation measurement errors. So I'm good to go.

AC purge tomorrow and will take out the components if I have time, before going to the Track, Friday

 

[cloud9]

DSS confirmed that the spec is intentionally tighter than needed to avoid installation measurement errors. So I'm good to go.

AC purge tomorrow and will take out the components if I have time, before going to the Track, Friday

Nice! Speaking of A/C, I was wondering if I should put some Nomex in front of it. I have a sheet in my garage that I never installed when the condenser was in there since with the thicker 302S radiator, it wouldn't fit. Now I have to see if the gap is too big or if I can figure out how to secure it in there.

 

[Black Boss]

Nice! Speaking of A/C, I was wondering if I should put some Nomex in front of it. I have a sheet in my garage that I never installed when the condenser was in there since with the thicker 302S radiator, it wouldn't fit. Now I have to see if the gap is too big or if I can figure out how to secure it in there.

I'm also thinking about that. The condenser fins are way more fragile than either the Setrab cooler or the radiator. Also with the cooler spaced in front you really need 2 layers of nomex...

I'll revisit once the condenser is out 8)

 

[Flyboygsxr]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T4P75ZQvpws

Interesting video I found…I am setting my pinion angle again since I changed out control arms.

 

[Grant 302]

Nice find and great info.

 

[302 Hi Pro]

Adam, that was very interesting. Now It makes me wonder about the motions and travel of a driveshaft at the pinion side of what happens on a hard launch.

I could never properly calculate the pinion angle with a 1 piece DS, as I couldn't establish the plane of the flywheel, (or engine to transmission mating point), so I aways adjusted to matching angles of both front and rear u-joints.

From watching the video you posted, I guess it was a good thing to do. I sure would like to read other views on this procedure equipped with 1 piece DS.

Thanks,
Dave
2HP