DSS Driveshaft Failed

[Brandon302]

I would think if you haven't changed the geometry then there would be no need to check your pinion.

 

[VTBoss302]

I would think if you haven't changed the geometry then there would be no need to check your pinion.

Depends on the type of driveshaft...

 

[Justin]

For those who install a new shaft with stock suspension (not lowered, no adjustable components), does the shaft angle need to be checked? I am in that situation and so far so good, but I don't want to get a DS in the butt by not installing an adjustable upper.

with the dss shaft no its part of its selling point having the cv joint at the tail end vice a typical joint used in driveshafts.

 

[VTBoss302]

with the dss shaft no its part of its selling point having the cv joint at the tail end vice a typical joint used in driveshafts.

And the PST...

The PST is built to order and requires no adapter plate like the DSS..

It does, however, require a fairly exact measurement to be made before ordering.

Also available in steel, aluminum or carbon fiber

Not saying it's any better, just another avenue to consider

 

[Domestic Product]

So my driveshaft gave out yesterday...I was on my way to the Nurburgring with my buddy and I started to get this weird vibration. It was random and would come and go and I wasn't sure what it was. Finally the car started to vibrate so violently that I had to pull over and could no longer drive the car...not even in first gear at 5mph. It was so violent it shook every part of the car and if I hadn't been going so slow I might not have been able to control the car. There was a metal on metal grinding sound that I thought for sure the driveshaft had come apart. I couldn't get under the car to see because I was on the Autobahn. I had to pay about $700 for a tow back to my house...5 hours in a tow truck sucks. I got the car up on the lift the following day and I could see nothing wrong with the driveshaft. There wasn't a mark on it and everything looked fine. With all the grinding noise I expected to see damage. I checked everything, pinion angle, made sure all the bolts were properly torqued and everything was perfect. The car was up on a drive on lift with a separate sliding lift so I could lift the rear and get the wheels turing to see what was going on. I had a friend get in the car and put it in gear and get the wheels spinning and sure enough the grinding and shaking was still there. Even though I couldn't see any damage I think the U-Joint failed. It almost sounds like there is grinding going on inside the driveshaft like something failed inside but I am almost 100% sure it is a problem with the U-Joint. I will be contacting Lethal Performance as I ordered the driveshaft through them. It had less than 3000 miles on it and up until it failed it was smooth as butter and I loved it. I have never launched the car and I do not drag race. It just failed while I was cruising down the Autobahn (freeway). I'll keep you guys posted on what Lethal does about the issue. I hoping they refund my money completely as I am probably going to stick with the stock shaft for a little while longer. It is a lot heavier but it is smooth. I am also worried about warranty if an aftermarket shaft fails. I have the stock driveshaft back in and everything is fine.

Your break down aside, you are one lucky guy! Tracking the Nurburgring in a modified Boss, sweet. How long are you in Germany for? Are you Air Force?

 

[Flyboygsxr]

So I spoke with DSS and they are replacing the driveshaft under warranty. Essentially what occurred was during suspension articulation from full extension to full compression the CV Joint failed as there was not enough tolerance to allow for full suspension travel. I tracked the car on the Nurburgring which has a lot of elevation changes causing the suspension to fully extend and fully compress on multiple spots on the track. Over time the CV Joint became more and more damaged until it finally failed after a few thousand miles. The stock driveshaft is two pieces and has a larger tolerance to compress and extend. The DSS unit doesn't have a large tolerance for extension and compression. I don't really know of any other track like the Nurburgring so it's not likely to occur to anyone else that isn't consistently extending and compressing their suspension. I'm not a happy camper even though they are replacing the unit. I spent a lot of money on the tow home and I'm weary of putting an aftermarket unit in again as I was lucky to not damage anything this time but might not be so lucky next time. I am sending them measurements so they can build the shaft to a different length to allow for more suspension articulation. If you aren't right in the middle of their measurements then I would be careful as you might be a hard bump or pot hole away from damaging the driveshaft. Hope the write-up makes sense.

Adam

 

[racered302]

Good to know considering I'm waiting on mine now. I hope it fall's in the middle of the measurement they give. Does the measurment change when the car is lowered? I know the pinion angle changes but wouldn't the distance change too?

 

[pufferfish]

That's an interesting consideration to make in choosing the cv or universal. It sounds like you better know what your suspension height is and measure twice if you want the cv!

 

[racered302]

Mine's stock and it will stay that way otherwise I'd have to park on the street, but I was just looking at the variables.

 

[Flyboygsxr]

Good to know considering I'm waiting on mine now. I hope it fall's in the middle of the measurement they give. Does the measurment change when the car is lowered? I know the pinion angle changes but wouldn't the distance change too?

The distance does change and it changes every time the suspension compresses and rebounds. That is why it's safer to keep the measurement in the middle of the tolerance.

 

[Jayman33]

Yeah, its too bad Lethal treated you the way they did. Even if the issue is out of my control I'll at least help my customers any way I can.

 

[racered302]

The distance does change and it changes every time the suspension compresses and rebounds. That is why it's safer to keep the measurement in the middle of the tolerance.

Makes sense, lowering the car or compressing the suspension does the same thing. I should be good then.

 

[TymeSlayer]

Just another update on my DSS driveshaft.

I have re-installed it and added the BMR safety loop. There was nothing wrong before but since I started hearing of some failure issues, I took it off until I could get the BMR installed. I have had no issues whatsoever since the re-install and love the feel of this DS. The weight saving is a plus as well.

 

[TymeSlayer]

Just another update on my DSS driveshaft.

I have re-installed it and added the BMR safety loop. There was nothing wrong before but since I started hearing of some failure issues, I took it off until I could get the BMR installed. I have had no issues whatsoever since the re-install and love the feel of this DS. The weight saving is a plus as well.

Okay, it's been a while since my last post on this subject but on my way to Las Vegas for the Mustang 50th Birthday celebration and an Open Track day at LVMS, I started getting a loud humming noise at around 80 MPH just outside of St. George Utah. As I slowed down, the noise diminished but as I got into Mesquite, NV - A very loud "chirping" type noise was coming from under the car. Everything was functioning correctly but the noise was obnoxious. I ended up having Ford Roadside assistance town the car and found out later that it was Driveshaft failure, although I'm not sure exactly what happened yet. I missed out on a good part of the birthday celebration and the track day because Ford had to order me up an OEM DS and that took several days. At first I thought the sound may have been coming from the inside but DSS said it's hollow. The only other think that looks wrong is that the rubber boot in the rear it torn up but other than that, there's nothing else obviously wrong. Am working with DSS on this directly and will let you know how I made out. Now I have two OEM driveshafts. Anyone need a spare?

 

[Rusty67]

Sorry to hear about the drive shaft failure. Please keep us updated as to what happened.

If the rubber boot tore, perhaps something got in there and caused premature failure ?

 

[TymeSlayer]

Or somehow it lost all it's grease and that's the metallic "chirping I heard.

 

[ArizonaBOSS]

Maybe DSS DS will have to come OFF of my mod list :-/

 

[pufferfish]

zero issues with my dynotech driveshaft up to 160mph for over a year now...just sayin' 8)

 

[Champale]

+1 on the Dynotech that Steve at Blowfish sells. Fantastic quality, zero vibes, actually reduced the diff whine that was coming through my Steeda UCA and bracket.

I have read of far too many weird issues with the DSS shafts on this forum and others and am very glad I didn't believe the early hype.

 

[ArizonaBOSS]

+1 on the Dynotech that Steve at Blowfish sells. Fantastic quality, zero vibes, actually reduced the diff whine that was coming through my Steeda UCA and bracket.

I have read of far too many weird issues with the DSS shafts on this forum and others and am very glad I didn't believe the early hype.

No joke, the pricing is better and the OD is smaller! I hope it's as strong as they say it is. That shall go on the list.