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Electric water pump

docs302

TMO Addict
534
317
Philly
Ran the Meziere this year and so far no issues but most of my sessions have been 20 min and only a few in 90+ heat so I can't say how it would work for a 45 min race. I also have no temp monitoring for now so I can't even say how hot I got. Next year will have some real gauges.
 

Boone

TMO Race
287
336
High Point, NC
I've had the Meziere 55gpm pump in my 3V since the day I bought it. I experienced one issue of high temps on track, and that turned out to be a leaky hose after a motor install. No other temp issues.

I took thermodynamics in college, so I'll drop a little of that razzle dazzle on you for thought. Sal's interpretation of the science and application of the pump is mostly correct. The only factor I haven't heard anyone mention is as the flow rate of air across the heat exchanger. As the air flow increases (higher speeds), the flow rate of the coolant can be increased to improve the overall heat transfer. This means there is no optimal flow rate for the coolant. The optimal coolant flow rate varies with the amount of air flowing across the heat exchanger. This favors the mechanical pump as long as the pump doesn't reach speeds where it cavitates.
Obviously, the pump speed varies with rpm, not speed, unless you assume nobody changes gears.

Also, don't miss the fact that Sal removed the thermostat from his set up. This removes a flow restriction in the coolant path, which is a good thing. He also installed the coolant crossover from the later 3V motor. These two mods are a major contributor to why he has had a great deal of success with the Meziere pump. Also, many of the creature comforts on Frankenstang are long gone, and this allows the radiator to be the prime player on the front of the car. To his credit, Sal's fabrication skill allows him to direct airflow to the heat exchangers.

I am installing the crossover, but not eliminating the T-stat. We'll see how my results are with FI, AC, PS cooler, and an oil cooler all competing for air flow.
 

Fabman

Epic Contributor
3,017
2,013
Pleasanton: 1/2 way between Sonoma and Laguna Seca
W2W Racing
20+ Years
@Fabman - do you have a pic of the crossover @Boone is mentioning. I played around with mine quite a bit last year. The temps were very sensitive to ensuring there was a restriction.

What are your plans for the new motor?
I do not. Boone has all my 3v stuff so maybe he can snap a pic for you.
My new motor is a junkyard Gen 2 coyote with bolt ons. Should be good for about 450+ wheel hp N/A.
Full details in my build thread.
 

Fabman

Epic Contributor
3,017
2,013
Pleasanton: 1/2 way between Sonoma and Laguna Seca
W2W Racing
20+ Years
I've had the Meziere 55gpm pump in my 3V since the day I bought it. I experienced one issue of high temps on track, and that turned out to be a leaky hose after a motor install. No other temp issues.

I took thermodynamics in college, so I'll drop a little of that razzle dazzle on you for thought. Sal's interpretation of the science and application of the pump is mostly correct. The only factor I haven't heard anyone mention is as the flow rate of air across the heat exchanger. As the air flow increases (higher speeds), the flow rate of the coolant can be increased to improve the overall heat transfer. This means there is no optimal flow rate for the coolant. The optimal coolant flow rate varies with the amount of air flowing across the heat exchanger. This favors the mechanical pump as long as the pump doesn't reach speeds where it cavitates.
Obviously, the pump speed varies with rpm, not speed, unless you assume nobody changes gears.

Also, don't miss the fact that Sal removed the thermostat from his set up. This removes a flow restriction in the coolant path, which is a good thing. He also installed the coolant crossover from the later 3V motor. These two mods are a major contributor to why he has had a great deal of success with the Meziere pump. Also, many of the creature comforts on Frankenstang are long gone, and this allows the radiator to be the prime player on the front of the car. To his credit, Sal's fabrication skill allows him to direct airflow to the heat exchangers.

I am installing the crossover, but not eliminating the T-stat. We'll see how my results are with FI, AC, PS cooler, and an oil cooler all competing for air flow.
Eliminating the T stat housing was part of the re routing of the hoses which is what made this all work for me.
This is what the FR500s did and ford did on all the 07 and up production 3 valves. While the later production 3 valves did keep the thermostat, they used the same re routing config that I did. Or I should say, I used the routing config that ford did and that made all the difference for me. So eliminating the T Stat alone isn't the answer, its the re rout of hoses.
 

Fabman

Epic Contributor
3,017
2,013
Pleasanton: 1/2 way between Sonoma and Laguna Seca
W2W Racing
20+ Years
Are you running any type of restrictor in that cross over? Also, looks like you skipped the connection to an expansion tank. No expansion tank?
These are the bypasses that I am using on the new motor:
 

honeybadger

TMO Advanced
These are the bypasses that I am using on the new motor:
I’m still struggling to figure out the routing. The fittings above eliminate the hose that runs from the bottom of the coolant reservoir to the inlet at the water pump (top part, not main radiator hose). What’re you doing with that? Does that now go into the coolant bypass inlet on the head since you removed the thermostat?
 

Fabman

Epic Contributor
3,017
2,013
Pleasanton: 1/2 way between Sonoma and Laguna Seca
W2W Racing
20+ Years
I’m still struggling to figure out the routing. The fittings above eliminate the hose that runs from the bottom of the coolant reservoir to the inlet at the water pump (top part, not main radiator hose). What’re you doing with that? Does that now go into the coolant bypass inlet on the head since you removed the thermostat?
I can only speak for what I am doing here, and as usual I'm probably doing something unusual.
Maybe because I don't know any better but it will work.
I am using the 3v degas bottle that fills the system through the bottom radiator hose and using my petcock in the water neck trick to bleed the system. I'm also eliminating that whole goofy Y system with the thermostat housing in it. Simple is better.
As with my 3V setup I will have the pump on a toggle, warm the engine with the pump off and then flick it on when I see some heat.
All you gotta do is remember to turn the pump on otherwise water will shoot out your hood vents.
Ask me how I know. lol.

120926722_10158841327553535_2077777438970536178_n.jpg
 
Last edited:

honeybadger

TMO Advanced
I can only speak for what I am doing here, and as usual I'm probably doing something unusual.
Maybe because I don't know any better but it will work.
I am using the 3v degas bottle that fills the system through the bottom radiator hose and using my petcock in the water neck trick to bleed the system. I'm also eliminating that whole goofy Y system with the thermostat housing in it. Simple is better.
As with my 3V setup I will have the pump on a toggle, warm the engine with the pump off and then flick it on when I see some heat.
All you gotta do is remember to turn the pump on otherwise water will shoot out your hood vents.
Ask me how I know. lol.
Ahh, okay. I think am following. I need something similar. With all that I've modified, I a stupid mix of custom and OEM stuff that I don't think is all working right. Will explore something like you're using to simplify things a bit.
 

Albino500

TMO Intermediate
69
79

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