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Electric water pump

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Fabman

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If the electric pump was to do all the work that the belt driven pump does, would it be as efficient to convert mechanical enery into electrical energy and back to mechanical energy to then drive the pump. It only makes sense if all the work isn't nessecary to begin with.
The chassis dyno would include all parasitic losses including the electrical load on the alternator.
 
303
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3-5 Years
25 min. to 1½ hrs. from Sonoma (ugh... traffic!)
The chassis dyno would include all parasitic losses including the electrical load on the alternator.
Agreed, and the gain at the wheels is because somebody is taking less energy away from the eng. Of couse the old belt pump has NO work to do now, but the electric pump isn't using as much energy, why? There are losses every time we convert one form of energy to another, and we now are going from mechanical (from alt.) to electrical, and from electrical back to mechanical (Meziere). I beleive that at 7000 RMP the Meziere is doing less work than the belt drive pump, that's where it's finding the extra power. If that extra work isn't needed it's a win/win
 
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Exp. Type
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3-5 Years
25 min. to 1½ hrs. from Sonoma (ugh... traffic!)
This conversation with Meziere:

Question,
My car will spend time on road courses at sustained RPMs of 4000 RPM and up. Since the 55gpm pump is delivering less flow than the belt driven pump at these RPMs will there be sufficient cooling?

Answer,
So, yes above 2500 rpm your factory pump will flow more than an electric water pump. If you are only out making a couple of passes like on a track day then the electric water pump might be able to keep the engine cool enough. However if you are going to be running for extended amount of time you may want to stay with a belt driven water pump.
 
303
251
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
3-5 Years
25 min. to 1½ hrs. from Sonoma (ugh... traffic!)
I know people are having good results using it. I'll also bet it's one piece of a very robust track dedicated cooling system. When it comes time for me consider using this on a boosted street/track car with a mildly modified from stock cooling system complete with an A/C condenser in the way too, and the manufacturer tells me this, I gotta think twice. No intention to insinuate that anybody's an idiot here, but I don't want to become the first one either.
 
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ChrisM

Mostly harmless.
1,180
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I dunno, I somehow managed with a 700/700 motor on track and had zero problems, but what do I know?
Other people are finding the same success but I'm sure they are all idiots and me too.
I recommend nobody buys one....ever.

That was a little hostile...
 

Fabman

Dances with Racecars
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That was a little hostile...

My apologies, that wasn’t supposed to be directed at you, just tired of the topic I guess.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

Fabman

Dances with Racecars
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Maybe useful information for some:

WP342S is the stock replacement 5.0 coyote electric pump, 5.5" 6-rib pulley
WP343S is the pump for a kenne bell kit, 4.8" 8-rib pulley.

The pulley can be used on stock setups, but may require a shorter belt. I guess I get to do some pioneering.
Not sure if I mentioned this before or not but....I bought the no pulley pump. It was a bunch cheaper and I eliminated the extra pulley and idler for a bit more simplicity and less parasitic loss. I worked out the correct belt length if anyone ends up going this way I would be happy to share the info.

67683203_10157505972528535_210619432349728768_n.jpg
 

TMSBOSS

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I bought the no pulley pump. It was a bunch cheaper and I eliminated the extra pulley and idler for a bit more simplicity and less parasitic loss. I worked out the correct belt length if anyone ends up going this way I would be happy to share the info.

Yes, Please. Less belt/pulleys and associated loss sounds like the way to go. Why remove the pump, pulley and belt only to add back a dummy pulley and belt length.

From your picture it looks like you have "The Solution". Is the idler/tensioner pulley and belt a ford item?
 

Fabman

Dances with Racecars
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Yes, Please. Less belt/pulleys and associated loss sounds like the way to go. Why remove the pump, pulley and belt only to add back a dummy pulley and belt length.

From your picture it looks like you have "The Solution". Is the idler/tensioner pulley and belt a ford item?
The tensioner is stock. For the belt I cut a stock belt down to the perfect length and went to my local auto parts store and hand sorted about a zillion belts until I found the perfect one. I saved the part number in my tool box for future use and will share that info when I get to work tomorrow.
 

Fabman

Dances with Racecars
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IMG_6748.JPG
 

Fabman

Dances with Racecars
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This is the minimum size, fits snug but it goes on.
Could maybe be another 1/8" or 1/4" longer but this works.
 

Fabman

Dances with Racecars
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Pleasanton: 1/2 way between Sonoma and Laguna Seca

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