Engine build

[TMSBOSS]

The tune will need to be done in USA from here I can get the car dynoed and data logged

Recommend you decide on your tuner as soon as possible and let him guide you on engine specific items.

Headers, CAI, clutch and throw out bearing are a must, as mentioned above.

I wish I had the budget to go the same way. This setup will be awesome!!! ;D

 

[big red one]

Ok so find a tuner first for those reasons i get that, who do i contact as i dont know any tuners in the usa?

The ford racing school are fitting these clutches



Any thoughts? i dont want a race car clutch as it will be to hard on the street

 

[pufferfish]

XS is a great choice Ian!
as mentioned, you need a CAI, as the engine will not include it. the FRPP is the best choice for a long distance remote tune. longtube headers are a must with this engine. to get the most out of it, changing out the rest of the exhaust should be done as well. the clutch is very important and widely debated. its important because its not easy to change out...except while doing an engine swap. its widely debated because of everyone's experience. dual disc, single disc, disc material, aluminum or steel flywheel. its insanity! i beat this one to death, but here i go again. i LOVE LOVE LOVE my spec stage 1 with aluminum flywheel. its inexpensive, it holds more torque than you will likely ever need, it NEVER causes "pedal to the floor syndrome", its super friendly on the street and the lightweight makes this thing zip up to the redline in a hurry! it does come at a cost of a heavier pedal, but its really not by that much. i prefer it to the lighter than stock twin discs out there.

after that, i recommend installing oil temp and oil pressure gauges. if you can swing it, its a good opportunity to install an air to oil cooler as well.

 

[Grant 302]

Ok so find a tuner first for those reasons i get that, who do i contact as i dont know any tuners in the usa?

I'd go with Shaun from AED if I had to choose today. I've done extensive tuning on older SN95 cars, and Shaun's methods for remote tuning seem to be the most consistent and logical, IMO.

http://www.advancedenginedevelopment.com/

 

[big red one]

Guys this is our current thinking, any further observations ?

Aluminator XS (M6007-A50-XS):

Spec Stage 1 Clutch (SF501-2):

Spec Aluminum Flywheel (SF50A-2):

CJ CAI (M-9603-M50CJ):

Kooks 1.75" Headers (60-41-175):

Kooks Boss H-Pipe (60-42-ORH-302BOSS)

Kooks Boss Side Pipes (60-43-SIDEPIPES)

Borla Over Axle Pipes (60521)

Blowfish Shifter Support (SSB-03-000)

Mishimoto 3-Core Alum Radiator (MMRAD-MUS-05)

McLeod Stainless Clutch Line (139251)

 

[F.D. Sako]

Have you seen the JPC clutch line?
I believe it's a little bit more affordable, which probably doesn't make a big difference for you right now , but it comes with a protective hose over the SS line for an extra layer of debris protection.

 

[TMSBOSS]

Looks good.

Kooks side pipes are straight pipes and will be loud.

When? ;D

Curious to see dyno numbers!!

 

[big red one]

I do have to be careful with the volume for track use so I guess I can use my qtp cutouts

 

[TMSBOSS]

Cutouts or a variety of plates.

I am sure Rick will sell you whatever you need. ;D

Stock pipes should bolt up also.

 

[ArizonaBOSS]

I'd skip the Borla over-axle pipes and save a couple hundred bucks. Never gonna see, feel, or hear the money you spent on em.

 

[pufferfish]

I'd skip the Borla over-axle pipes and save a couple hundred bucks. Never gonna see, feel, or hear the money you spent on em.

take my post with a grain of salt, since i put the thought into ian's head, but when i installed OAP's, they were definitely worth some noticeable butt-dyno power. adam at rev auto confirmed he regularly picks up 8-10hp with them. with the XS engine, you want to have as free a flowing exhaust as possible. take one look at the stockers and you can SEE the restrictions!

that said, i just realized i don't have sidepipes so maybe its not as big of a deal if you do have them? again, a grain of salt people!

 

[big red one]

This comment from AED about the clutch

Skip the Spec clutch, the proper setup for a high reving engine is a twin disc. We are a McLeod shop, and the proper unit is the RST with lightened steel flywheel.

 

[pufferfish]

ha, welcome to the gist of american politics, ian! everyone picks a side and then argues their point until you believe them or start nodding in agreement until they finally shut up.

be leary of anyone starting off their "rock solid advice" with "we are a mcleod shop". was their point to say they sell mcleod and drank the koolaid? or that they sell mcleod, please buy their product? or that they had their choice in clutches and through countless research and trials, they decided mcleod was the best one?

yes, i did offer to sell you a spec clutch. its not my living and i don't make much off of selling it. i just offered it to you as value added for a good customer. hell, if you want a twin disc, spec makes a sweet billet pressure plate 1000hp twin! i just don't think the cost is warranted.

end of the day, the clutch politics rage on and you are left to make your own decision and hope its right. whatever your choice, i won't take it personally.

 

[Grant 302]

Guys this is our current thinking, any further observations ?

Aluminator XS (M6007-A50-XS):

Spec Stage 1 Clutch (SF501-2):

Spec Aluminum Flywheel (SF50A-2):

CJ CAI (M-9603-M50CJ):

Kooks 1.75" Headers (60-41-175):

Kooks Boss H-Pipe (60-42-ORH-302BOSS)

Kooks Boss Side Pipes (60-43-SIDEPIPES)

Borla Over Axle Pipes (60521)

Blowfish Shifter Support (SSB-03-000)

Mishimoto 3-Core Alum Radiator (MMRAD-MUS-05)

McLeod Stainless Clutch Line (139251)

I would change the clutch and radiator...and probably keep the stock side pipes. RST and either Ford Racing M-8005-MGT or C&R Racing 20-01053 radiators. Kooks side pipes really seem to kill the underbody clearance. Just what I'd choose with this level of build.

EDIT:
Forgot to mention also the Boss 302R-Hx radiator and oil cooler combo from Fluidyne...also the '13 GT500 fan.

 

[VoodooBoss]

This comment from AED about the clutch

Skip the Spec clutch, the proper setup for a high revving engine is a twin disc. We are a McLeod shop, and the proper unit is the RST with lightened steel flywheel.

AED has a great reputation here in NorCal and all they work on is Mustangs. I have the RXT with the lightened steel flywheel and if I was going do it again I would get the RST. I think the RXT is overkill and it's a bit touchy on the street but it's killer on track.

 

[ford20]

I would change the clutch and radiator...and probably keep the stock side pipes. RST and either Ford Racing M-8005-MGT or C&R Racing 20-01053 radiators. Kooks side pipes really seem to kill the underbody clearance. Just what I'd choose with this level of build.

EDIT:
Forgot to mention also the Boss 302R-Hx radiator and oil cooler combo from Fluidyne...also the '13 GT500 fan.

I agree with the C& R Racing Radiator over the Mishimoto Radiator. I have seen and heard of more racers using the C&R than with the Mishimoto and with some pretty good success. Not to say that Mishimoto might not be a quality piece but I would rather see the success that others are having and utilize that.

That being said I wouldn't hesitate to use Lund Racing, when it comes to tuning there are among the best. They have done remote tuning sessions around the globe and have been flown out to tune cars in person at several shops.

 

[big red one]

Another Option maybe

I could always change the coil covers

http://www.roushperformance.com/engines/50l-coyote-rsc.html

 

[pufferfish]

thats pretty pricey! its basically an aluminator ($8500) with a supercharger kit on top. i don't think any kits would run you anywhere near the $10000 balance.

 

[TMSBOSS]

Pricey!!

You may also experience cooling issue unless you made some serious cooling system improvements.

Does the motor come with intercooler heat exchanger??

That being said.

I do like the way you think!! ;D

 

[ford20]

Another Option maybe

I could always change the coil covers

http://www.roushperformance.com/engines/50l-coyote-rsc.html

I would skip the RSC if I was looking for a supercharged engine. I would do this instead:

http://fordracingpartsbydonwood.com/crate-engines/modular-engines/5-0l-4v-aluminator-eng-9-5-1-for-s-c-applications-m-6007-a50sc/?gclid=CNyz_7C_tsECFQ8R7AodXmoAQg

+

http://www.hypermotive.com/vmp-gen-ii-2-3l-stage-3-tvs-11-14-gt-boss/

Jason, the owner of Hypermotive is in Germany right now so he probably has some options for shipping to you as well. By doing it this way, you save about 2 or 3,000 dollars so you wouldn't have to change your coilovers. That being said, I have always liked the VMP kits over the Roush kits just for their contents since they both use the same supercharger but the VMP uses a better intercooler and heat exchanger. All that Roush RSC engine is, is the same Aluminator with a Rouscharger on top of it.