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Engine cooling

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What would be a better overall cooling solution for the engine? Keep the stock w2w oil cooler and get a beefy radiator? Or keep the stock rad but replace the oem oil cooler with an a2w brick?

Edit: 2012 track pack GT

One more thing, I know there are other options, but curious which is better between these 2
 
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TMSBOSS

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Get a larger radiator AND a air to oil cooler. Leaving the stock unit in is a option and does offer some benefits. Oil warms up and cools quicker. Down side to the OEM is maintenance.

I run the Capaldi racing radiator and a air to oil cooler, with water wetter. On the hottest days, I will need to turn on the defrosters to help cool the engine water and oil. I would likely benefit from a larger oil cooler.
 

Grant 302

basic and well known psychic
The actual answer depends on what size oil to air, where it's mounted, and which 'beefy' radiator.

The OEM/Boss/TP/'donut' oil cooler capacity is in the 40k to 60k btu/hr...but 'takes away' that amount of capacity from the radiator.

Overall, the 1st option is 'better' thermodynamically.
 
The actual answer depends on what size oil to air, where it's mounted, and which 'beefy' radiator.

The OEM/Boss/TP/'donut' oil cooler capacity is in the 40k to 60k btu/hr...but 'takes away' that amount of capacity from the radiator.

Overall, the 1st option is 'better' thermodynamically.

That's interesting, I didn't know that the OEM cooler had that much capacity. On my old car I had a 13x8x2 stacked plate brick and it was only rated at 37k BTU and that was a decent size.

Anyway, the radiators I am looking at are either the Fluidyne 3 row or the 302S (M-3005-MGT). Both I believe are about an inch thicker than stock. The oil cooler kit has a 24x5x2 brick which is rated abour 42K BTU.
 

Grant 302

basic and well known psychic
That's interesting, I didn't know that the OEM cooler had that much capacity. On my old car I had a 13x8x2 stacked plate brick and it was only rated at 37k BTU and that was a decent size.

Anyway, the radiators I am looking at are either the Fluidyne 3 row or the 302S (M-3005-MGT). Both I believe are about an inch thicker than stock. The oil cooler kit has a 24x5x2 brick which is rated abour 42K BTU.

I should clarify, that the range I posted is my estimate, and based off overheating calculations - not for street driving.

I think option 1 is still better with those specifics, aside from the potential reliability issues with the stock type donut.

It seems that the oil-air cooler would need to exceed a Setrab 948 (69k-96k btu/hr) and then it would have trouble being 'better' overall, if mounted in front of a stock radiator.
 

Grant 302

basic and well known psychic
Not really that it 'blocks' airflow, but it's shedding a lot of hot/pre-heated air. The part of the radiator directly behind it isn't gonna cool off as much. Most people seem to overlook this issue and the way we normally stack these coolers.
 

Grant 302

basic and well known psychic
What kind of temperature drop can be expected with the stock oil cooler, a Setrab oil cooler, stock Boss radiator, AND a Tiger hood???
I think of it as you should be able to run longer or be further away from heat soak at the end of 20-25 minute sessions. It's hard to exactly say since no two days are exactly alike even with the same car, course, and driver. My guess is that it would be between 5º and up to 15º at the end of a 20-25 minute session depending of the specific Setrab.


How about using a larger rad with the two oil coolers and a stock hood ????

Even with the stock hood, this setup should be good for endurance racing and essentially prevent overheating up to a specific high ambient temp for a given driver and course. Again, depending on the specific 2nd oil cooler. I don't think the hood venting is a critical item once you have enough cooling capacity, but rather a better item for front downforce. And of course, a 2012 would need the front grille addressed.

As far as I recall, nobody really reported significantly lower temps as a result of just using the Tiger Racing hood. But items like bigger/better radiators, oil coolers, 2011/12 grilles had solid temp deltas reported. The vented hoods are more about controlling where the under hood air is vented instead of creating 'more' vented air.

...

If I were to setup an 'ideal' system that would handle endurance racing without the OEM 'donut', it would still have two oil coolers. They would be in series, with the first one behind the radiator preferably near a large hood vent. The second oil cooler would be a larger one, again in front front of the radiator or an oil to water cooler like in the Fluidyne/KB 302-Hx setup. My preference would be for a triple pass radiator, as it would handle temp spikes better.
 
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I think of it as you should be able to run longer or be further away from heat soak at the end of 20-25 minute sessions. It's hard to exactly say since no two days are exactly alike even with the same car, course, and driver. My guess is that it would be between 5º and up to 15º at the end of a 20-25 minute session depending of the specific Setrab.

Even with the stock hood, this setup should be good for endurance racing and essentially prevent overheating up to a specific high ambient temp for a given driver and course. Again, depending on the specific 2nd oil cooler. I don't think the hood venting is a critical item once you have enough cooling capacity, but rather a better item for front downforce. And of course, a 2012 would need the front grille addressed.

As far as I recall, nobody really reported significantly lower temps as a result of just using the Tiger Racing hood. But items like bigger/better radiators, oil coolers, 2011/12 grilles had solid temp deltas reported. The vented hoods are more about controlling where the under hood air is vented instead of creating 'more' vented air..

2012Boss302, See my posts in other threads on this subject via the search tool.

Running a Roush Billet Grille, the FRPP M-8005-MGT Boss 302S radiator, a Setrab 172, and a Setrab 925, my coolant temps run 220 - 235 degrees and oil temps are between 250 - 270 degrees depending on the outside air temperature. The Setrab 172 combined with the OEM oil to water cooler had similar oil temperatures, but my coolant temps were always 230 degrees or higher.

I think my current setup is borderline for an endurance car. I generally don't run my car longer than 30 -35 minutes a session. Usually it is 30 minutes or less. I suspect that if I ran the car for longer in hot weather I would have an issue if I did not keep my shift points down around 7,000 RPM.

I saw or noted no drop in temperatures after I installed the Tiger hood. I am not saying it does not help, but I have no data saying it does either. In my opinion and based on my personal observations, the hood is the last place I would look to lower temperatures.

You need to look at additional airflow through the radiator via an open grill and boxing the radiator enclosure, increase radiator cooling capacity, and add either a Setrab 948 or multiple smaller oil coolers.
 

Grant 302

basic and well known psychic
The Setrab 172 combined with the OEM oil to water cooler had similar oil temperatures

And this supports my thinking that the OEM donut transfers about the same as either a 925 or 172 Setrab. And yes, that's also why it's a problem that it transfers that much to the coolant system when radiators aren't addressed or sized to handle the extra load.
 

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