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Engine Oil

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Thanks Grant, I did not consider that the 40 is less resilient at typical track temps. I still don't think the 5 weight is needed for summer since these engines warm up fast and they are already at ambient temp. I have been changing my oil before and after the track plus a week on the street so I will look around for a good deal for some 10w50 or 15w50 for the track and stick with the 40 for the street and AutoX. Glad we had this thread pop up.
 
I use royal purple hps 10-40 for the street and resline 5-50 for the track,redline is ester based with great additives.
 
This fill is Redline 10w40 cause it was the best I could find locally at the time. Gonna be replacing it with Rotella T6 this time. I'll get a UOA done on the T6 fill since the Mustang guys freak out over people using it.
 
Just did my first oil change. I used Castrol 5W50 Edge and a Ford Racing oil filter. I have a family member who can get me oil at a great price and I picked up 6 oil filters. My Ford dealer only charges me $20 labour to do the oil charge and asked them to remove the exhaust restricters while it was in the oil change bay. (No charge). What a different sound. Looking forward to making a bunch of noise.
 

MeanGreenBoss

Last new 2013 Boss in Houston: #3049
Went with Redline 5w-50.

Decision was made primarily when doing oil research and seeing all the Amsoil propaganda littering the internet. . .<ducking any responses from Amsoil dealers\shills> ::)
 
dabossinne said:
Ford Racing released a v2.2 Trackey installation guide http://fordracingparts.com/trackey/include/new/M-14204-MBTKA_-_Installation_V2.2.pdf, and in the FAQ section they are explicit about using *only* 5w50 oil: "Make sure to use only 5w50 oil, as cam control can vary dependent on oil viscosity."

If cam control is dependent on oil viscosity then, wtf?!
1. How far off the OEM crap does the viscosity have to be to have an affect? Not catastrophic, just an affect.
2. Does different viscosity just slow the reaction time or will it affect cam final position (scary)?
3. Is there a position sensor for the cams or are they just ASSUMING the cam is where it should be because they gave it XX amount of pressure?? If not then it's as bad as a blind man not checking if the oven is open while tossing in an apple pie!
4. Oil viscosity changes with temperature no matter what oil you use...derrr.

Point 4 makes me think this explanation in the instructions is a load of Bull.
 

Grant 302

basic and well known psychic
WinterSucks said:
If cam control is dependent on oil viscosity then, wtf?!
1. How far off the OEM crap does the viscosity have to be to have an affect? Not catastrophic, just an affect.
2. Does different viscosity just slow the reaction time or will it affect cam final position (scary)?
3. Is there a position sensor for the cams or are they just ASSUMING the cam is where it should be because they gave it XX amount of pressure?? If not then it's as bad as a blind man not checking if the oven is open while tossing in an apple pie!
4. Oil viscosity changes with temperature no matter what oil you use...derrr.

Point 4 makes me think this explanation in the instructions is a load of Bull.

I generally agree with this assessment, but it could be that there will be a problem when using say 10wX or 15wX in sub zero temps or the opposite end if say you use a Xw30 or Xw20 oil in hot weather. Either condition *could* result in too little flow or pressure to properly actuate the cam movement despite the use of cam torque to actually provide the force to make the change. Pure speculation on my part though.
 
Grant 302 said:
I generally agree with this assessment, but it could be that there will be a problem when using say 10wX or 15wX in sub zero temps or the opposite end if say you use a Xw30 or Xw20 oil in hot weather. Either condition *could* result in too little flow or pressure to properly actuate the cam movement despite the use of cam torque to actually provide the force to make the change. Pure speculation on my part though.

True, it could just be one extreme, or both that they are worried about. I have done a lot of reading on the "bob is the oil guy" site, so I am thinking the lower temperatures is what they might be worried about most since it is harder for the engine to pressurize into the cam. I am thinking an oil pan warmer might be a good idea. I want to protect my baby! What oil are the 302S teams running?
 
Sorry if this is taking the thread off-topic, but it is the only running oil thread right now and it seems relevant:

Motorcraft Full Synth. 5w50 viscosity:
21.0 @ 100°C
136 @ 40°C
5,900 @ -30°C

Redline Full Syth 5w50:
21.0 @ 100°C
130 @ 40°C

Redline Full Syth 5w40:
15.6 @ 100°C
97 @ 40°C

Since the MC oil still shears to at least a 40 weight almost right away, I am thinking a 5w40 from Redline would work fine. There is some concern I have read that the redline 5w50 will yield too much pressure at full throttle and dump out the bypass. I thought the bypass depended on temp but I guess it does both? The viscosity at -30C is a little scary when I think about my daily driver over this crap winter (on 5W20). Definitely getting an oil pan warmer for the Focus!
 

Grant 302

basic and well known psychic
WinterSucks said:
Since the MC oil still shears to at least a 40 weight almost right away, I am thinking a 5w40 from Redline would work fine.
Probably okay for anything but track and really hot days.
There is some concern I have read that the redline 5w50 will yield too much pressure at full throttle and dump out the bypass. I thought the bypass depended on temp but I guess it does both?
? I don't get the concern there. Probably the dumbest thing written in that SVTP thread. The bypass is frequently working at part throttle, and it's only pressure based.
The viscosity at -30C is a little scary when I think about my daily driver over this crap winter (on 5W20). Definitely getting an oil pan warmer for the Focus!
I'd use a warmer or block heater anywhere you can see snow and give a long time to warm up (zero load and not even slow driving).
 
Grant 302 said:
I'd use a warmer or block heater anywhere you can see snow and give a long time to warm up (zero load and not even slow driving).
I had tried that. Half an hour later I gave up I just drove off gently. The new Focus engine seems to be too efficient idling and the needle didn't budge until a few minutes later. That was around 20F.
 

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