Engine Wiring Harness Replacements

[patrickshelby]

Maybe indy (non-dealer) tuners can do it remotely or with an email tune? Shaun @ AED? I am not sure what is included in the relearn exactly but it is practically a tuning procedure if I understand it correctly. Maybe in this case a simple reloading the factory tune would do the trick? I would send an email to Shaun at AED http://www.advancedenginedevelopment.com/company-overview
Just a thought.

I will try that.
Thank you!

 

[WinterSucks]

Is there any reason to have that TSB performed even if I am not having codes/limp mode before the warranty is up? Is it an if I don't have it now I never will type of situation?

 

[cloud9]

Is there any reason to have that TSB performed even if I am not having codes/limp mode before the warranty is up? Is it an if I don't have it now I never will type of situation?

It seems like it happens to most cars that see track time. It sounds like it occasionally happens to street driven cars but not at the same rate. If you haven't tracked the car, it's likely it just hasn't been pushed hard enough to experience it.

Not trying to be difficult, but I'd like to keep this topic on issues related to the engine wiring harness, but I know we all have ADD to an extent and drift off topic occasionally ;D

There's a thread devoted to the misfire issue here: https://trackmustangsonline.com/index.php?topic=2598.0

 

[cloud9]

Looks good. Hoping to put it back on tomorrow night.

 

[cloud9]

All better ;D Fired right up and no codes.....whew. I really like the attention to detail on everything they did. They even replaced all the plastic keepers that broke off during removal. It looks like they do very high quality work. Also, a big shout out to Bill for sending me some pics of how they zip tied off the excess wire on the cam actuators near the front of the valve covers. We weren't sure how best to route them at first.

 

[PeteInCT]

I like the rubber boots and the wire treatment leading to the connector, I may need to do that 'in house'. But are the actual connector pins any different than stock ?

-Pete

 

[cloud9]

I like the rubber boots and the wire treatment leading to the connector, I may need to do that 'in house'. But are the actual connector pins any different than stock ?

-Pete

Yes you have to replace the connectors on the sensors as well since the pins are different. I posted the email from PRS in the first post that describes everything that's done to the harness and sensors. Hopefully that answers your question. If not it's over my head

 

[steveespo]

Looks great Gary. I studied these up close at one of last seasons events at Summit Point, they are full race Mil Spec grade connectors.
Did you get the ABS module installed? I haven't even looked at my car in 3 weeks due to the cold and snow, but I did get it from Bill.
Steve

 

[Senderofan]

Gary:

That new and improved harness looks great! Look forward to hearing you had a flawless season for 2014. I know you had someone help you to remove the harness but how would you rate the task on a scale of 1-10...1 being easy??? I wanted to ask you also....when you had the tranny out did you upgrade to the competition pulse ring? I'm wondering if that might help with the P 03xx codes? I've got the ring but have not done the O ring tsb.

Wayne

 

[VoodooBoss]

I wanted to ask you also....when you had the tranny out did you upgrade to the competition pulse ring? I'm wondering if that might help with the P 03xx codes? I've got the ring but have not done the O ring tsb.

Wayne

Since I installed my CPR with my new clutch last Spring I have not thrown a single code. I'm not sure it it helped or not but I consistently threw codes prior to that.

 

[dabossinnne]

Looks great Gary. Will be anxious to hear how well it works out for you this track season. Hopefully well! At least it's good to know there's a high-quality, easy to install engine wiring replacement option out there.

 

[cloud9]

Looks great Gary. I studied these up close at one of last seasons events at Summit Point, they are full race Mil Spec grade connectors.
Did you get the ABS module installed? I haven't even looked at my car in 3 weeks due to the cold and snow, but I did get it from Bill.
Steve

Thanks Steve. Actually I've been waiting on you before I put the ABS module in because I won't be able to drive it and calibrate the ABS sensors due to the frozen tundra. I figure if yours works mine will as well. I will probably get through the battery relocation before installing the ABS module.

 

[cloud9]

Gary:

That new and improved harness looks great! Look forward to hearing you had a flawless season for 2014. I know you had someone help you to remove the harness but how would you rate the task on a scale of 1-10...1 being easy??? I wanted to ask you also....when you had the tranny out did you upgrade to the competition pulse ring? I'm wondering if that might help with the P 03xx codes? I've got the ring but have not done the O ring tsb.

Wayne

If you have experience changing wiring harnesses, I'd say it's probably a 2 or 3. If not, but you're fairly mechanically skilled it's probably a 5. If you're me it's a 9 or 10 :-\

I did have the CPR installed with my Exedy clutch. I'm sure it helps but the O-ring on the crank sensor seems to be the easiest and most reliable fix.

 

[PeteInCT]

Yes you have to replace the connectors on the sensors as well since the pins are different. I posted the email from PRS in the first post that describes everything that's done to the harness and sensors. Hopefully that answers your question. If not it's over my head

That was my guess given the price. I think I'm going to look for boots to use and get some shrink tubing near the sensors on the wiring for now. Since Ford replaced my harness (stock replacement) and did a re-learn I haven't got one code - and I used to get them every event. Hopefully the issue doesn't come back this coming season, or else I'll need to go down this road also.

Tnx,
Pete

 

[ArizonaBOSS]

Bumping this thread, I may be going down this route with PRS as well at some point in the future. For now I'm going to see 1) if Rockauto sent me the correct connector end for the front cam sensors then 2) replace all 4 of those myself.

If those don't solve my issues I'll have to fork over the G to PRS for their badass kit.

QUESTION--when removing the front sensors or whatever to send in for refurb/replacement at PRS, do you have to pull the actuators off the front of the cams? Or do the sensors or whatever simply unclip from the rest of the hardware?

Thanks again for the great info.

 

[cloud9]

Bumping this thread, I may be going down this route with PRS as well at some point in the future. For now I'm going to see 1) if Rockauto sent me the correct connector end for the front cam sensors then 2) replace all 4 of those myself.

If those don't solve my issues I'll have to fork over the G to PRS for their badass kit.

QUESTION--when removing the front sensors or whatever to send in for refurb/replacement at PRS, do you have to pull the actuators off the front of the cams? Or do the sensors or whatever simply unclip from the rest of the hardware?

Thanks again for the great info.

The harness and 9 sensors are all modified from your stock parts so all have to be sent in at the same time. The front 4 cam actuators have two bolts holding them into the head. I have attached a photo below with the valve covers removed and you can see them at the front. After you remove the harness you remove the two bolts on each cam actuator and the entire sensor comes out. It's basically round except for the plug on top.



Your issue could be the cam actuators OR it could be one or more of the 4 cam sensors on the back of the head. When we had them reversed the VCT only ran in the neutral position which is what you described was happening to you. i.e. if they are shorting the engine will run but you get no TiVCT.

 

[ArizonaBOSS]

OK so you don't have to remove the cams or timing chains to get those out?

I have one of each of the "rear" sensors as well, maybe I'll replace them all...

 

[cloud9]

OK so you don't have to remove the cams or timing chains to get those out?

I have one of each of the "rear" sensors as well, maybe I'll replace them all...

Nope thank goodness! Cams and chains don't need to be touched.

Now that you're racing the car, I would just reference post #21 and proceed accordingly. He's never wrong! ;D

 

[ArizonaBOSS]

OK!

Yes, the PRS is certainly the bulletproof way to go...just difficult justifying the expense when I can do soldering and proper strain relief in my garage. We'll see...maybe I'll splurge for it.

 

[ArizonaBOSS]

OK FINAL QUESTION (MAYBE):

Did you have to get a Neutral Profile relearn done on the car, since the crank sensor is being removed?