Engine Wiring Harness Replacements

[DGRacing]

I had PRS do mine. Threw a code two seasons a go and degradation had started. The street harness is good for a couple/few years depending on driving style.

 

[cloud9]

I had PRS do mine. Threw a code two seasons a go and degradation had started. The street harness is good for a couple/few years depending on driving style.

What was your build date? This certainly appears to be a bigger issue with the '12s and especially the earlier builds. Mine is. 0159 3rd week of production. Ford changed the wiring harness part # after week 4 but I know some guys with '12s after that build date still had issues with shorts in the connectors. I haven't seen anyone with a '13 post about this issue. It would be helpful if we could narrow it down to a specific production period so people would know uf they need to do this mod.

 

[VoodooBoss]

What was your build date? This certainly appears to be a bigger issue with the '12s and especially the earlier builds. Mine is. 0159 3rd week of production. Ford changed the wiring harness part # after week 4 but I know some guys with '12s after that build date still had issues with shorts in the connectors. I haven't seen anyone with a '13 post about this issue. It would be helpful if we could narrow it down to a specific production period so people would know uf they need to do this mod.

The connectors were updated with the 2013's. Drew just modified his existing with the 2013 connectors and hasn't had any issues. His is a mid cycle build like mine.

 

[steveespo]

Funny that my car was built in 2010 and I have been tracking it since 9/2010 with no cam, crank or solenoid codes. I wonder what the track used failure rate is. 50%? 80%?
Steve

 

[ford20]

For what's it worth my car was built in December 2010 and I have never tracked the car. I don't know what Ford did with it when they have it but I am 98% certain that I was having wiring harness issues since I kept getting codes even after changing out the cam shaft sensors.

For this do we also send in the wiring harness? What about the crankshaft sensor, do we still have to get the o-ring?

 

[cloud9]

For what's it worth my car was built in December 2010 and I have never tracked the car. I don't know what Ford did with it when they have it but I am 98% certain that I was having wiring harness issues since I kept getting codes even after changing out the cam shaft sensors.

For this do we also send in the wiring harness? What about the crankshaft sensor, do we still have to get the o-ring?

The codes that indicate the harness/connector issue are related to the camshaft position sensors. You'll get (P0010, P0012), or (P0020 and P0022) depending on whether it's Bank 1 or 2. The crankshaft position sensor codes usually result in a P0300 (random) or P030x (specific cylinder) misfire. The misfire codes are resolved with the O-ring TSB and/or the competition pulse ring.

 

[Fomoco302]

The connectors were updated with the 2013's. Drew just modified his existing with the 2013 connectors and hasn't had any issues. His is a mid cycle build like mine.

Example of a good reason to wait on second year GT350 purchase. IMO Especially with the new FPC architecture.

 

[Black Boss]

For this do we also send in the wiring harness? What about the crankshaft sensor, do we still have to get the o-ring?

Yes you send the engine harness and the Crank and Cam position sensors along with the cam actuators -- see these in reply #77 above.

 

[Black Boss]

Completed the harness reinstall. No more codes at key on

Ran engine until full warm up and no codes or Check Engine light, so it looks like I don't need to get the re-learn done. Both PRS and Rehagan thought this would be the case. Will take for a test drive to test under load, if the snow disappears....

 

[WinterSucks]

Can the removal and re-install of all these sensors and the harness be done without pulling out the engine?

 

[cloud9]

Can the removal and re-install of all these sensors and the harness be done without pulling out the engine?

Yes, but it's a bit tight along the firewall for the ones on the backside.

 

[Black Boss]

Can the removal and re-install of all these sensors and the harness be done without pulling out the engine?

Removing the valve covers first helps a lot with both the cam position sensors, and releasing the connectors near the firewall, especially if you have big hands -- just don't drop anything while they are removed ;D

 

[DGRacing]

What was your build date? This certainly appears to be a bigger issue with the '12s and especially the earlier builds. Mine is. 0159 3rd week of production. Ford changed the wiring harness part # after week 4 but I know some guys with '12s after that build date still had issues with shorts in the connectors. I haven't seen anyone with a '13 post about this issue. It would be helpful if we could narrow it down to a specific production period so people would know uf they need to do this mod.

Not sure the build date but mine is #114. I forget the exact code it threw but it was crank/sensor related; however no limp mode. So the performance shop that was working on my car at the time researched it and called some contacts in Michigan and deemed it to be the harness or sensor contacts. They said the same thing happened on their '11 or '12 GT.

So they just shipped the harness to be stripped and hardened.

 

[cloud9]

Not sure the build date but mine is #114. I forget the exact code it threw but it was crank/sensor related; however no limp mode. So the performance shop that was working on my car at the time researched it and called some contacts in Michigan and deemed it to be the harness or sensor contacts. They said the same thing happened on their '11 or '12 GT.

So they just shipped the harness to be stripped and hardened.

Yours is an early build then so either way it was a good idea to upgrade it. Most of the crankshaft sensor issues were resolved with just the CRP and/or O-ring TSB. Doing the PRS upgrade may resolve them as well.

The issue that forces the harness upgrade is when the camshaft position sensors lose connection. The TiVCT shuts down and you lose about 100 hp. It doesn't go into limp home mode, but you'll feel like you're driving an old 4.6 3 valve and not a Boss. Basically the cams stay in a neutral position and you lose the extra hp. My tech buddy had a more sophisticated scan tool that showed camshaft position and you could see them move when it was working and stay at 0 position when it wasn't.

The codes are P0010, P0012, P0020 and P0022. The crank sensor codes are usually P0300 or P030x (cylinder specific).

 

[DGRacing]

Yeah. I remember them saying the sensor harness contacts were soft and degraded. The new harness has direct hard wiring into the sensor. Whatever that means. Lol

 

[steveespo]

Funny that my car was built in 2010 and I have been tracking it since 9/2010 with no cam, crank or solenoid codes. I wonder what the track used failure rate is. 50%? 80%?
Steve

Got bit by this bug finally this weekend P0020 and the crank position sensor code put me in limp mode bad during a session, then the cam bank 1 camshaft full retard code took about 100 HP from me all day today. HAve the wiring and new sensors, just need the $1k for PRS to fix.
#sucksthebigone

 

[cloud9]

Got bit by this bug finally this weekend P0020 and the crank position sensor code put me in limp mode bad during a session, then the cam bank 1 camshaft full retard code took about 100 HP from me all day today. HAve the wiring and new sensors, just need the $1k for PRS to fix.
#sucksthebigone

Bummer Steve. It really stinks when you lose the VCT. It feels like you got neutered.

 

[steveespo]

Bummer Steve. It really stinks when you lose the VCT. It feels like you got neutered.

Car was skipping but making good power the first 2 sessions Saturday morning (152.4 on VIR back straight which was my fastest speed there) but after lunch it went full limp and I had to pull off track, shut it and luckily it restarted clean and I got back to the pits. Ran Okay after that and on Sunday I was just not getting off the corners and was running 5 seconds off my pace with coilover setup. Car just had no jump and I was trying to overdrive it to compensate and burned up a set of tires. Anyway just have to send the box of wires and sensors to PRS and cough up the $1100. Sucks but that's racin'. Got a good 12000 miles on track over 4.5 years without too many problems so can't complain.
Steve

 

[DGRacing]

Steve.

First awesome top speed on back straight! My aero configuration has clipped my top speed sub 150 now.

Second. Sucks about the harness failure. An inevitable thing but at least it's on its way to harness heaven and get reincarnated better. See you at superfest.

 

[steveespo]

Not silly at all. The first one began with P0020 Intake Camshaft Position 'A' Actuator Circuit Open (Bank 2) and P0022 A" Camshaft Position - Timing Over-Retarded (Bank 2) DTCs and a CEL. Fortunately there was no significant loss of power, or if there was it was short-lived. I was able to finish the track weekend after clearing the codes. Once I brought it in the dealership called the Hotline and they told them to replace the engine wiring harness. The second occurrence was P0010 (Bank 1) and P0012 (Bank 2) and all the timing was being pulled by the PCM. It was like driving a Honda Civic. I would shut the car off, clear the codes and the CEL would come back within half a lap and all the timing pulled again so an early exit on day 1 of a three day weekend. When I brought it back to the dealer, they Hotline again instructed a harness replacement.

Exactly the condition I experienced this weekend. Good thing I already have these: