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Extended studs for Magneride Mustangs

11
6
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
Under 3 Years
Zeeland, MI
The magneride cars have the same hub/knuckle as the GT350 as noted above. I also did the same as @o-man, but went with the ARP studs from Summit ARP-100-7733, FP lug nuts FMS-M-1012-N and a cheap spacer made from something like this off ebay http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-5...0001&campid=5338634152&icep_item=191156083019
You spend $35, pound out the studs and have a hubcentric lightweight spacer. Surprised more don't do the same, but I have a shoestring racing budget, so I re-engineer all I can.

I think the non Mag cars have 3 bolts holding the hub to the knuckle so you can therefore rotate the hub to knock out a stud without removing the hub itself. With the GT350/MR hubs, this isn't an option. They must be removed to get the stud out. Don't forget a little blue locite when reinstalling and if memory serves me, one bolt is impossible to torque... you'll have make your best guess on that one.
So you went with the bolt on style spacer vs one that required extended studs? I was also wondering why more people weren't doing that. Wasn't sure if they aren't as strong or it is a weight thing
 
341
397
Exp. Type
Time Attack
Exp. Level
Under 3 Years
SoCal
So you went with the bolt on style spacer vs one that required extended studs? I was also wondering why more people weren't doing that. Wasn't sure if they aren't as strong or it is a weight thing
He bought bolt on spacers, yes, but note that he said he pounded out the studs on the spacers so they act like slip on spacers for less money.
DO NOT use bolt on spacers. They're only more points of failure.
 
11
6
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
Under 3 Years
Zeeland, MI
He bought bolt on spacers, yes, but note that he said he pounded out the studs on the spacers so they act like slip on spacers for less money.
DO NOT use bolt on spacers. They're only more points of failure.
I read that as him pounding the original studs out the hub. Makes a lot more sense now. Thanks for the explaination
 
2
0
Exp. Type
Autocross
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
Folsom, Ca.
I have a 2021 GT Non-Magneride but it has the Magneride style front hub that Ford switched over to in May 2021 (I read on a forum). My dilemma is this. I have a Ford Perf hub for earlier spindle steering knuckles, with the elusive ARP long studs.I was hoping to bolt them on but what a surprise when I pulled the wheel. I thought well, just put the long studs on the new magneride style hub but...look at the thickness difference between the plates the wheel bolts to. Do you think they are safe for track use with longer studs and wheel spacer/ sticky tires?

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186
190
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
20+ Years
NC
Your hubs are definitely different from my 2019 Bullitt. But looking where the studs go in, the hub appears at least as thick as the old style hub. My opinion for what its worth would be to run the ARP studs in your current hubs
 

steveespo

Lord knows I'm a Voodoo Child
Moderator
3,793
1,324
Exp. Type
Time Attack
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
Cookeville TN
Th
I have a 2021 GT Non-Magneride but it has the Magneride style front hub that Ford switched over to in May 2021 (I read on a forum). My dilemma is this. I have a Ford Perf hub for earlier spindle steering knuckles, with the elusive ARP long studs.I was hoping to bolt them on but what a surprise when I pulled the wheel. I thought well, just put the long studs on the new magneride style hub but...look at the thickness difference between the plates the wheel bolts to. Do you think they are safe for track use with longer studs and wheel spacer/ sticky tires?

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They are the same thickness at the stud bosses so you can swap studs. They just lightened the wheel flange on that hub, first time I've seen them. Thanks for posting.
 

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