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Favor from someone with coilovers

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741
1,075
TX
Could someone with coilovers lift their car up until there's about 2in of air between the ground and tires (at full droop) and then measure the distance from the ground to the floor pan? Ideally an S550, but any gen mustang will give me a decent idea. Thx!

Trying to get an idea how high the car needs to be lifted to get the tires off the ground
 
Could someone with coilovers lift their car up until there's about 2in of air between the ground and tires (at full droop) and then measure the distance from the ground to the floor pan? Ideally an S550, but any gen mustang will give me a decent idea. Thx!

Trying to get an idea how high the car needs to be lifted to get the tires off the ground
I can tell you mines too low for quickjacks
 
1,246
1,243
In the V6L
Could someone with coilovers lift their car up until there's about 2in of air between the ground and tires (at full droop) and then measure the distance from the ground to the floor pan? Ideally an S550, but any gen mustang will give me a decent idea. Thx!

Trying to get an idea how high the car needs to be lifted to get the tires off the ground
Ok, having done coilover conversions and all the arithmetic that goes with them several times on different cars, the advice I'd offer is "pick your coilover set before you pick your jacks". Every coilover set is made with generic dampers - each specific damper size (length, fastener type and valving configuration) can be fitted to a range of vehicles, but the ones on a Miata will be different than the ones on a Mustang. They're attached to the car with bespoke brackets top and bottom. Designers will generally try to keep the suspension extremes within the OEM range - a bump stop will keep it from getting too low and the damper at full extension will keep it from extending too far. Sticking to the OEM travel range prevents damage to other suspension components from over-travel. Within those limits, springs, helper springs, spring perches and damper assemblies will be designed to provide the maximum travel that can be attained with the parts involved. More travel is always better than less - who, in the middle of a corner, wants to cope with the sudden shock that comes when the suspension runs out of travel? Nobody. Travel is good, more travel is better.

So, if you want the most flexibility - so you don't have to get new jacks when you get tired of whatever track day setup you're looking at and switch to Penske's - get jacks that work at OEM droop.
 
189
290
Exp. Type
Time Attack
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
75024
What he said, coilovers may have internal stops to limit droop - like to keep short springs from rattling. On my other cars, porsches, mazda's, performance shocks/coilovers generally have less droop than OEM. Thats good for transient response, but topping out over crests can cause traction issues. If you plan for OEM droop you will be safe.
 
323
318
Exp. Type
Autocross
Exp. Level
20+ Years
So Cal
Thats good for transient response, but topping out over crests can cause traction issues. If you plan for OEM droop you will be safe.

Often not as bad of an issue as you'd suspect, specifically on the front, but it can have some compromises on the rear. A lot of time, damper lengths are spec'd to allow the tire to clear the fender lip during a pit-stop and that's about it. The higher you raise the car, the slower the fuel flows.
 
323
318
Exp. Type
Autocross
Exp. Level
20+ Years
So Cal
There is always the ole nascar solution. A strap or chain used to limit travel of the axel, arm.

I know modified oval guys that live and die by those tuning tools. Just because we don't use them, doesn't mean they don't work. It sounds a little archaic, but it's damned effective.
 
741
1,075
TX
thanks for the heads up on droop. I'd been assuming all coilover options would have about the same droop as the coilovers I've been exposed to (JRi). I'll make sure to verify. Thanks!
 

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