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Feedback for initial GT350 camber setting for track

HardYakka

Avalanche Gray '17
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Fort Lauderdale, FL
Hey team

Tracked my stock GT350 on the OEM street alignment specs, and now just purchased the MaximumMotorsports Camber plates & hardware. I'm going to run a Michelin PSC2 305/30r19 square setup on the OEM non-R "heavy" wheels for the first time at Sebring.

From what I have read, folks like to start adjusting from:

Front: 2.0* driver 2.2* passenger
Rear: 1.5*

And there is some debate on the correctness of the FP toe adjustment recommendations, perhaps instigated from Vorshlag.

My question is, would you recommend to go all out 2.5* front / 2.0* rear since I'm running PSC2s? I'm not overly concerned about tramlining, as I wouldn't daily with the track camber, but I am driving vehicle up for 3 hour highway trip and concerned about tire wear. I'll find a Firestone to align before and after the event.


Here are some helpful posts:

https://trackmustangsonline.com/threads/please-help-a-newbie-with-gt350-camber.11680/

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/17-gt350-recommended-road-course-alignment-possible-without-cc-plates.97155/
 

HardYakka

Avalanche Gray '17
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Side question: does anyone have any experience "easily" adjusting camber from street to track settings with the Maximum Motorsports brand, or is that a perk reserved only for the Vorshlags... Im beginning to think I should have "ponied up" for the latter since I don't have a trailer
 

j3st3r

Brian S.
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I have MM camber plates on mine and have zero issues switching back and forth. I simply used a paint marker and marked the street setup and then I run as much negative camber as I can at the track since the 1.7 recommended in the card from Ford did not seem to be enough. Then simply put it back to mark when street driving
 

HardYakka

Avalanche Gray '17
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@j3st3r hey that's good feedback. I wasn't sure if that was possible with the MM design without significantly getting the alignment out of whack when self adjusting. I was worried I would also mess up the caster while I was at it.

So you don't use the $59 camber alignment tool from MM? :)
 

Jet One

TMO Advanced
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@j3st3r hey that's good feedback. I wasn't sure if that was possible with the MM design without significantly getting the alignment out of whack when self adjusting. I was worried I would also mess up the caster while I was at it.

So you don't use the $59 camber alignment tool from MM? :)
I was curious too about adding more camber at the track and throwing caster out enough to be problematic. Anyone have experience with this?
 

Eric62

TMO Intermediate
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Fort Myers, FL
I use J&M plates on an S197. I set the plates "full out" all the way to the stops. I then set the camber with Eibach eccentric bolts in the upper strut to knuckle mounting holes. I set the static street camber, caster and a bit of toe-out with the eccentrics and tie rods. The caster gets locked down with a bolt on the J&M plates.

At the track, I loosen the camber plates 4 bolts and slam the strut all the way in for maximum negative camber. The toe changes to a tiny bit more toe out. They advertise a 2.5 degree total change but I've found it closer to 2 degrees. At the end of the track day, I jack one front corner at a time and pull the mounts back out. Or if I'm tired, drive it home that way and change it later.

I also run Sebring but I don''t know what numbers a S550 would want with those tires. An asymmetrical setup to maximize RH turns might be fastest. You can go light or easy on that, as much as 1 degree less camber on the RF and 0.5 to 0.75 less at the rear might give overall lower lap times. I'm not doing TT's so I haven't tried it.
 
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