Feedback for initial GT350 camber setting for track

Discussion in 'Suspension and Chassis' started by HardYakka, Sep 11, 2018.

  1. HardYakka

    HardYakka Avalanche Gray '17

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    Hey team

    Tracked my stock GT350 on the OEM street alignment specs, and now just purchased the MaximumMotorsports Camber plates & hardware. I'm going to run a Michelin PSC2 305/30r19 square setup on the OEM non-R "heavy" wheels for the first time at Sebring.

    From what I have read, folks like to start adjusting from:

    Front: 2.0* driver 2.2* passenger
    Rear: 1.5*

    And there is some debate on the correctness of the FP toe adjustment recommendations, perhaps instigated from Vorshlag.

    My question is, would you recommend to go all out 2.5* front / 2.0* rear since I'm running PSC2s? I'm not overly concerned about tramlining, as I wouldn't daily with the track camber, but I am driving vehicle up for 3 hour highway trip and concerned about tire wear. I'll find a Firestone to align before and after the event.


    Here are some helpful posts:

    https://trackmustangsonline.com/threads/please-help-a-newbie-with-gt350-camber.11680/

    https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...e-alignment-possible-without-cc-plates.97155/
     
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  2. HardYakka

    HardYakka Avalanche Gray '17

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    Side question: does anyone have any experience "easily" adjusting camber from street to track settings with the Maximum Motorsports brand, or is that a perk reserved only for the Vorshlags... Im beginning to think I should have "ponied up" for the latter since I don't have a trailer
     
  3. j3st3r

    j3st3r Brian S.

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    I have MM camber plates on mine and have zero issues switching back and forth. I simply used a paint marker and marked the street setup and then I run as much negative camber as I can at the track since the 1.7 recommended in the card from Ford did not seem to be enough. Then simply put it back to mark when street driving
     
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  4. HardYakka

    HardYakka Avalanche Gray '17

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    @j3st3r hey that's good feedback. I wasn't sure if that was possible with the MM design without significantly getting the alignment out of whack when self adjusting. I was worried I would also mess up the caster while I was at it.

    So you don't use the $59 camber alignment tool from MM? :)
     
  5. HR692

    HR692 TMO Intermediate

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    I was curious too about adding more camber at the track and throwing caster out enough to be problematic. Anyone have experience with this?
     
  6. Eric62

    Eric62 TMO Intermediate

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    I use J&M plates on an S197. I set the plates "full out" all the way to the stops. I then set the camber with Eibach eccentric bolts in the upper strut to knuckle mounting holes. I set the static street camber, caster and a bit of toe-out with the eccentrics and tie rods. The caster gets locked down with a bolt on the J&M plates.

    At the track, I loosen the camber plates 4 bolts and slam the strut all the way in for maximum negative camber. The toe changes to a tiny bit more toe out. They advertise a 2.5 degree total change but I've found it closer to 2 degrees. At the end of the track day, I jack one front corner at a time and pull the mounts back out. Or if I'm tired, drive it home that way and change it later.

    I also run Sebring but I don''t know what numbers a S550 would want with those tires. An asymmetrical setup to maximize RH turns might be fastest. You can go light or easy on that, as much as 1 degree less camber on the RF and 0.5 to 0.75 less at the rear might give overall lower lap times. I'm not doing TT's so I haven't tried it.
     
    Last edited: Oct 13, 2018

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