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First oil change is a doozy

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mattlqx

Mustangless
I changed my oil and it wasn't fun. It wasn't fun at all. The filter is way, way over-torqued from the factory. It was on a FULL TURN past "snug". I worked on the filter alone for no less than two hours. Thanks Ford. Thanks so much. I had to a use a 18" pipe wrench to get it off in the end. Somebody please, please, please tell the factory to actually use the torque spec that's RIGHT ON THE FILTER.

I want to echo others and say change your oil after 500-1000 miles. There's so much junk in there it's insane. I've never seen that much crud come out of a new car. Some of the picture below was from my trials with the oil filter, but the vast majority was just from the oil itself. The oil service door on the windage tray is passable if I didn't have to use a honkin' wrench but they route large gauge electrical wire for the EPAS directly below the filter. It's impossible to not lubricate all the things under there when taking off the filter. Probably the worst oil service experience of any car I've owned.

IMG_0970.jpg

IMG_0978.jpg

IMG_0979.jpg

IMG_0980.jpg
 
Wow is right that's a lot of crap in there. Sounds like my problem was the easy part of your afternoon. ;D
 

mattlqx

Mustangless
F.D. Sako said:
What could that "blue/red" stuff be? generous use of loctite?

Probably.

TMSBOSS said:
Are the red and blue specks part of the drain pan?

Can you cut the filter open and check for debris? If the majority of the debris was in the bottom of the pan and not in the filter. I would be less concerned.

lol, no, the pan is solid grey.

I can probably cut it open tomorrow. This is what all GT350 guys are seeing on their first oil change from what I've been reading.
 

TMSBOSS

Spending my pension on car parts and track fees.
7,530
5,247
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
Illinois
This makes you wonder why dealers have offered to do the first oil change free for years. ;D

The plastic is likely from chain tensioners. With new tensioner pads and chains a bit of break in wear is expected. The metal from the build and break-in process although unsettling is not alarming.

I have fought with installed filters in the past. The Boss the most recent. With the aero panels and limited access, I can guess how "Interesting" this was to do.

Would I "Worry" about the amount on the first change? No. If the second oil change has the same amount of particulate, go to Ford and document the concern.
 
To save on dripping oil on wires and such, can you drive a hole in the filter bottom and drain off a bit before removing next time?
 

302 Hi Pro

Boss 302 - Racing Legend to Modern Muscle Car
2,009
441
Southeast
Hi Mattiqx:

I too would agree with you, first oil and filter change at 1,000 miles, because at some point the oil filter by-pass valve will open.

A couple of items, I suspect much of the colored particles, (white in particular), are oil filter can paint related. As well as anything that seems to be floating on the oil. The oil seems pretty thick in the pan, pic must have been taken hours after the initial drain.

However the oil looks very clean, you mentioned 500 - 1,000 miles, but what was the actual miles on your oil?

(Note: My first oil change on my U code engine was about 1,200 miles and it was pretty much black, soon afterwards I installed a oil catch can, then stepped up to the Peterson vent can a few thousand miles later.)

Yes, there seems to be a large amount of debris, but this might be common for the 5.2L. If this were my engine, I would change the oil again in another 1,500 to 2,000 miles to inspect for more debris. I suspect you'll find a different story and it should be fairly debris free.

If you do have something internal with abnormal wear, it will show up in an oil analysis after another 1,000 to 1,500 miles of operation, (need a minimum of 25 hours of operation).

Keep us posted, and have fun with your new SGT350.
302 Hi Pro
 

mattlqx

Mustangless
SCGT500 said:
To save on dripping oil on wires and such, can you drive a hole in the filter bottom and drain off a bit before removing next time?

I actually did that because of my, uh, alternate method of removal (hole was on the other side of the filter). If you have a long drill bit, you could make it work. I had to go from the side just due to clearance issues and the end result was the same. Still, I'd rather not have it part of my standard oil chance procedure.
 

mattlqx

Mustangless
302 Hi Pro said:
A couple of items, I suspect much of the colored particles, (white in particular), are oil filter can paint related. As well as anything that seems to be floating on the oil. The oil seems pretty thick in the pan, pic must have been taken hours after the initial drain.

However the oil looks very clean, you mentioned 500 - 1,000 miles, but what was the actual miles on your oil?

Yeah, the oil sat in the pan for about 2 hours while I was busy with the filter so plenty of time for the junk to settle at the bottom. Actual milage: 913. I plan on changing it again at 3000 miles, which will include a Chuckwalla day.
 

ArizonaBOSS

Because racecar.
Moderator
8,730
2,734
Arizona, USA
Jeez.

If a strap wrench won't budge it, the next best step is just punch a screwdriver through the filter and use it as a handle. Messy, but effective.
 

TMSBOSS

Spending my pension on car parts and track fees.
7,530
5,247
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
Illinois
I bit less messy if you use one of these.

PIG® Form-A-Funnel® Flexible Draining Tool - 6.5" x 14.5"

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003V9JWHO?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

Flexible funnel which can be formed to fit around the filter and allow you access to the filter.
 

Grant 302

basic and well known psychic
TMSBOSS said:
I bit less messy if you use one of these.

PIG® Form-A-Funnel® Flexible Draining Tool - 6.5" x 14.5"

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003V9JWHO?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

Flexible funnel which can be formed to fit around the filter and allow you access to the filter.

I always use one of those. Keeps the oil away from areas that can puddle. IIRC, they come in a few different sizes.
 
mattlqx said:
I actually did that because of my, uh, alternate method of removal (hole was on the other side of the filter). If you have a long drill bit, you could make it work. I had to go from the side just due to clearance issues and the end result was the same. Still, I'd rather not have it part of my standard oil chance procedure.

I use a punch to drive a hole, when sorta done dripping, put a piece of tape over the hole and turn off filter.
 
I use this -- haven't tried it on the GT350 yet, but it worked great on the other Mustangs:

http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-63250-Range-Filter-Wrench/dp/B0002SR4PY/ref=pd_sbs_263_3?ie=UTF8&dpID=41BPufCSLlL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=1SDV6C4C3MWT67RM1V76
 

mattlqx

Mustangless
FWIW, I tried to cut the filter open today. I got some of the metal off enough to poke around at the medium. I didn't see much in the ribbing except for an occasional metal piece. Certainly nothing like what had settled in the oil pan, so I'd take that as good news.
 

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