cloud9
Gary
You know come to think of it, I haven't seen any YB on track other than the two of yours....2012YellowBoss said:
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First Track Day -- several questions
- Thread starterYellowJacketBoss302
- Start date
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cloud9 said:
I know ??? There was a vid from PA that was posted early last year of a yellow Boss that took a little spin off track and that is only other one I have seen besides Jim's car.
cloud9
Gary
Oh I forgot about SUPRMN! He had his YB out at MAM in April for the first time. :-[2012YellowBoss said:
- Thread starter
- #24
This pic and a few more new ones posted here:
http://s1236.photobucket.com/albums/ff443/yellowjacketboss302/Barber%20HPDE%205-26-12/
http://s1236.photobucket.com/albums/ff443/yellowjacketboss302/Barber%20HPDE%205-26-12/
- Thread starter
- #26
Well, I have driven three HPDE events since the first and:
I have learned this:
1. A cool shirt/vest of some kind really helps in hot weather. I got a cool vest from here
http://www.stacoolvest.com/cooling-vest.php
The vest comes with two sets of thermopacks that are frozen before using. I need to get a third for the Alabama summer heat. This vest made a huge difference for me.
2. The BOSS WILL overheat at the track. Removing the grill will fix the problem (at least it did for me). However, the car is butt-ugly without a grill. After discussing the situation with an instructor with a BOSS I found that it would NOT overheat if I changed my downshift points such that I was in fourth gear for most of the track (rather than third). There are a couple of places at Barber where being in fourth leaves a bit on the table, but my times actually improved considerably when I stopped down shifting at the end of each straight. Being a novice, that helped me focus more on the proper turn in point, apex, etc. By the way, I think this gives some credence to the theory that the overheating is caused by cavitation in the water pump at high rpm. I read that theory on one of the forums. For what it’s worth my best time when the engine overheated and I was using the original shift points was about 2:06. My best time since is 1:52; so, I am pushing the car much harder now and no overheating.
3. I had very bad shifting issues during the first three track events. Even had to cut one session short because it was almost impossible to get the trans in fourth. As reported by many others this happened at high rpm and when engine/trans were very hot. A long cool down and clutch bleed fixed problem for the next session. Since then I have been careful to open the hood to allow maximum cool down between sessions and I have added some metallic insulation around the clutch hydraulic line and used some wire to pull the line an inch or so farther away from the exhaust headers. It is routed very close in our cars. I had very few and relatively minor shift issues in my last event. Although it now grinds going into sixth almost every shift. Why sixth -- why now ?????
4. The stock tires are great. They are even good in the rain. Rained the first day of my last event. I passed almost every car I encountered in the rain and was passed rarely. This was with the Porsche club and most of my competitors were Porsches.
5. The stock tires wear out very fast. I got 9,000 miles and six track days (three events) out of them.
What I need to know:
1. What is the dipstick calibration? That is: with exactly 8.5 quarts what is the level on the stick (top of hatch marks, top hole, ?????) When one quart low what is the level?
2. Still searching for optimum tire pressure for (a) maximum grip and (b) maximum durability? Tires seem to grip well at 40 – 41 psi but I get very much wear on the very outside edge. I noticed that the tires on the BOSS driven by the instructor I met had a more even wear pattern. He used very high pressure (44 to 46 psi hot). I tried that (and once accidentally ran 50 psi) and it does seem to reduce the wear on the outside edge. However, when I recently replaced the original tires with a set of used tires I bought from someone on this forum, I noticed that my inside edges were more worn than I thought AND there was bad “chunking” near the center toward the inside. Was that because of the high pressures?
3. What is a good substitute for the stock P Zero’s that is in the stock size and is less expensive?
4. The rear tires were much less worn than the fronts. Would it be OK to track with new fronts and old (but not worn out) rears? I was advised against this because the rears were heat cycled many times and probably had much less grip than new ones. So, the car would not handle right.
All advice is appreciated !!!!
Lastly – here is a link to a video of my best lap 1:52.65.
http://youtu.be/5oa8FqD4Y9w
I have learned this:
1. A cool shirt/vest of some kind really helps in hot weather. I got a cool vest from here
http://www.stacoolvest.com/cooling-vest.php
The vest comes with two sets of thermopacks that are frozen before using. I need to get a third for the Alabama summer heat. This vest made a huge difference for me.
2. The BOSS WILL overheat at the track. Removing the grill will fix the problem (at least it did for me). However, the car is butt-ugly without a grill. After discussing the situation with an instructor with a BOSS I found that it would NOT overheat if I changed my downshift points such that I was in fourth gear for most of the track (rather than third). There are a couple of places at Barber where being in fourth leaves a bit on the table, but my times actually improved considerably when I stopped down shifting at the end of each straight. Being a novice, that helped me focus more on the proper turn in point, apex, etc. By the way, I think this gives some credence to the theory that the overheating is caused by cavitation in the water pump at high rpm. I read that theory on one of the forums. For what it’s worth my best time when the engine overheated and I was using the original shift points was about 2:06. My best time since is 1:52; so, I am pushing the car much harder now and no overheating.
3. I had very bad shifting issues during the first three track events. Even had to cut one session short because it was almost impossible to get the trans in fourth. As reported by many others this happened at high rpm and when engine/trans were very hot. A long cool down and clutch bleed fixed problem for the next session. Since then I have been careful to open the hood to allow maximum cool down between sessions and I have added some metallic insulation around the clutch hydraulic line and used some wire to pull the line an inch or so farther away from the exhaust headers. It is routed very close in our cars. I had very few and relatively minor shift issues in my last event. Although it now grinds going into sixth almost every shift. Why sixth -- why now ?????
4. The stock tires are great. They are even good in the rain. Rained the first day of my last event. I passed almost every car I encountered in the rain and was passed rarely. This was with the Porsche club and most of my competitors were Porsches.
5. The stock tires wear out very fast. I got 9,000 miles and six track days (three events) out of them.
What I need to know:
1. What is the dipstick calibration? That is: with exactly 8.5 quarts what is the level on the stick (top of hatch marks, top hole, ?????) When one quart low what is the level?
2. Still searching for optimum tire pressure for (a) maximum grip and (b) maximum durability? Tires seem to grip well at 40 – 41 psi but I get very much wear on the very outside edge. I noticed that the tires on the BOSS driven by the instructor I met had a more even wear pattern. He used very high pressure (44 to 46 psi hot). I tried that (and once accidentally ran 50 psi) and it does seem to reduce the wear on the outside edge. However, when I recently replaced the original tires with a set of used tires I bought from someone on this forum, I noticed that my inside edges were more worn than I thought AND there was bad “chunking” near the center toward the inside. Was that because of the high pressures?
3. What is a good substitute for the stock P Zero’s that is in the stock size and is less expensive?
4. The rear tires were much less worn than the fronts. Would it be OK to track with new fronts and old (but not worn out) rears? I was advised against this because the rears were heat cycled many times and probably had much less grip than new ones. So, the car would not handle right.
All advice is appreciated !!!!
Lastly – here is a link to a video of my best lap 1:52.65.
http://youtu.be/5oa8FqD4Y9w
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