For those with McLeod RST/RXT

[TMSBOSS]

I am evil. What else can I say???

 

[ford20]

That is pretty much my setup haha. I have the RST, lightened steel flywheel, new ford throw out bearing, Ford Racing Pilot Bearing, ARP Flywheel bolts, MGW Race shifter, JPC Clutch line, DSS Carbon Fiber driveshaft. Car shifts very nice considering it still has the factory fluid in it. The hardest thing was relearning the engagement point since it was almost at the top of the pedal travel.

 

[GaryA]

I'm looking forward to that relearning process!

 

[Viper1mx]

While your'e in there you may want to add a updated pulse ring as well Ford Performance PN 12A227- about a $100 - not saying you need to tune the Boss but if you ever want to you'll be glad you had this part installed - search around here for the reasoning. Also I went with the RST as well as the lighter flywheel - 100% best upgrade from the stock clutch - ended all issues with clutch/trans for me and I track it pretty often. Did the whole progressive attempts to cure the issue without going to a clutch and no go. When the trans scattered the dealer install with the rebuilt tranny for about 100 bucks, I supplied clutch flywheel, pilot and throwout bearings and the pulse ring - have had zero issues since!

 

[GaryA]

I have seen the pulse ring referred to but had no idea really what it was or what it did. Thanks for the part number, Viper1mx. I will definitely check it out. I'm going to have my mechanic do the heavy lifting on changing out the clutch due to healing blown disc in my back, so it would be the ideal time cost wise to do it for sure. Does this tie into the reset for the crank misfire monitor?

 

[ArizonaBOSS]

The pulse ring (or crank trigger) uses a series of teeth that rotate past a stationary magnet (crank position sensor). The difference in magnetic potential allows the engine to know where it is at with respect to crank position. All of the teeth and their gaps (width and depth) are uniform save for one spot on the ring--which allows the ECU to understand when the engine has completed a full revolution (and can count the pulses in magnetic potential from the other teeth in-between).

The only physical difference in the competition pulse ring is that the depth of the slot for the "complete revolution" point is deeper than on the production rings. The production rings couldn't allow for enough difference in magnetism above 7700 RPM--so the computer could not tell where the engine was with respect to timing. The deeper slot prevents this issue and allows the computer to be accurate above 8000 RPM.

Not sure if this was integrated into the 2015+ production 5.0L engines or not, but I assume it was utilized on the 5.2Ls due to the factory 8250 RPM redline. Or maybe it was all done in the updated ECU.

 

[GaryA]

ArizonaBoss, if I add the upgraded pulse ring are there any implications or potential adverse effects for me if I leave the engine as is (I do have TracKey activated) and never do any engine mods? Does this just give me the option later with no downside? I have to admit the thought of an 8000 rpm + redline potential is rather intoxicating.

 

[ArizonaBOSS]

ArizonaBoss, if I add the upgraded pulse ring are there any implications or potential adverse effects for me if I leave the engine as is (I do have TracKey activated) and never do any engine mods? Does this just give me the option later with no downside? I have to admit the thought of an 8000 rpm + redline potential is rather intoxicating.

Absolutely no adverse effects or downsides, other than the $100 lighter feeling in your wallet. There is no better time to install this than during a clutch/flywhel replacement.

 

[Mad Hatter]

On the other hand....our engines at 8000rpm have a shorter life expectancy!! I started tracking the car with 7750 redline a few years ago and now I have it at 7400 and trying to keep my shifts at 7000.

Getting the MT82 freshened up with some good bits in it, would be a good way to go so you don't have to do this again any time soon!

 

[GaryA]

What are the odds that the misfire monitor/crankshaft sensor/neutral profile reset will be necessary if sensor pulse ring is left or taken apart and the CJ pulse ring installed? Is this reset a given no matter what? If the wrench icon isn't lit, no codes detected and the A/F ratio is not fixed at 14:1 am I probably safe?

 

[F.D. Sako]

I've never done this myself, had a shop do it, but if i'm not mistaken, the crank relearn is necessary after a clutch/flywheel replacement. I think the car will go into limp mode and you wont be able to rev very high. So make sure the shop (or you, if you're doing the install) has the tool to do the relearn.

Hopefully, someone that has done this will chime in.

 

[Champale]

Yes crank relearn will be necessary - both replacement clutches I've done required it and yes, the engine goes into a limp more if you give it full throttle over about 4k rpm if you don't do the relearn. It takes only a minute or two with an SCT X4 programmer to do it.

 

[GaryA]

How difficult to learn and use is the SCT-4, especially for the crank relearn procedure? Even if I don't use any of the preloaded tunes, are there enough other valuable functions to make it worth the $399. price? I noticed the downloads require Windows Vista OS and I am an Apple guy. I do like the independence of being able to do my resets verses having to take it to a dealer service department.

 

[Champale]

My mechanic has an unlocked X4 and he literally plugs it in under the steering wheel, pushes a few buttons, and the relearn is done. I have an older SCT handheld tuner for my AED tunes and it's very simple (but the pre-X4s don't have the crank relearn feature). Not sure about the Apple compatablity. I have used an old Windows laptop for my downloads/datalogging.

 

[Mad Hatter]

How difficult to learn and use is the SCT-4, especially for the crank relearn procedure? Even if I don't use any of the preloaded tunes, are there enough other valuable functions to make it worth the $399. price? I noticed the downloads require Windows Vista OS and I am an Apple guy. I do like the independence of being able to do my resets verses having to take it to a dealer service department.

The X4 is very easy to use, almost a no brainer. Its a great tool for checking codes and I never go to the track with out it (but their are phone apps for that for less). The relearn is a MUST do after clutch work, even if you do not get any codes, strange things will happen if you do not. Limp mode etc.

 

[GaryA]

Can I take the SCT-4 out of the box and plug it into the car and use it or do I have to fiddle around on a PC to get the thing set up first?

 

[Mad Hatter]

For the relearn or to check codes etc its out of the box. To load a tune or decent logging etc you need a computer with windows.

 

[GaryA]

Thank you, Mad Hatter! That is exactly the answer I needed. I probably would not want to change the stock tunes on my car but just needed it to give to my mechanic so he can do the relearn for me after the install. It's a drive to the nearest Ford dealership from my house and they have a spotty reputation. I would really like to find a dealership in the Roseville/N. Sacramento California area that can be trusted, hopefully with a Mustang specialist familiar with the Boss, but this tool in the hands of my mechanic who I trust would alone make it worth the $399. price even if I never used it again.

 

[ArizonaBOSS]

The relearn takes about 15 mins if the car is cold--it needs to warm up above 177F coolant temp. Once it's warm, you blip the engine above 4000 RPM quickly and the relearn is done. (This is once the car is put into relearn mode using X4 or Ford IDS software)

 

[GaryA]

Is most of the time involved in getting the car warmed up? Do you hook up cold and go to the relearn in " Special Functions" to start the process and at some point the car is started and allowed to warm up before the blip? If so, that sounds very easy.