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Ford Motorcraft XL-18 Mt-82 Additive review :)

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Big fat tires and everything !
Z man,
Love those cars by the way. Not saying it did not exist. Just saying after a full transmission rebuild on Fords dime, a new McLeod RST clutch , steel flywheel and clutch line along with a Ford racing shifter with bracket , clutch assist spring removal, skip shift un-plug , and SP racing pedals and a month at the dealer my car shifts great.
When I change the fluid I will ask for this, thanks for posting the info. The transmission needs all the help we can give it. A real weak point in a awesome car.






WorldFamousZ said:
Again, no dealership I talked to had ANY clue to any other fluids or additives being used in our cars except what was in the manual. They couldn't find any TSB's etc or any memos that stated using other fluids or additives were supported by Ford USA. Perhaps your dealer knows something the rest don't? I would love to know if your dealership could come up with a TSB etc that the rest of us could use when we go in...
 

302 Hi Pro

Boss 302 - Racing Legend to Modern Muscle Car
2,009
441
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WorldFamousZ said:
Again, no dealership I talked to had ANY clue to any other fluids or additives being used in our cars except what was in the manual. They couldn't find any TSB's etc or any memos that stated using other fluids or additives were supported by Ford USA. Perhaps your dealer knows something the rest don't? I would love to know if your dealership could come up with a TSB etc that the rest of us could use when we go in...

Here this might help you with your dealer. Look at note #6.

https://www.fcsdchemicalsandlubricants.com/main/quickref/mantrans.pdf
 
There's a LOT of confusion about this fluid in all the posts I read including the links above.
Seems like FORD can't get their act together on letting the customer or service know for that matter, what the correct course of action is.

I've called and talked to 4 different dealers and talked to their service advisers and in a few instances service managers and I literally have gotten 4 different stories about what fluid / additive or no additive etc to use is.

For now I'll use this additive since there IS documentation by FORD explicitly stating to use it and no clear guidance otherwise.

And to me, the issue doesn't seem put to rest at all, considering the lack of real information combined with the fact that FORD seems to be changing their minds all the time about what to use.
 
I've run MTL in a '12 V6 and now in my '12 GT and I have no complaints.

Back when the '11's were first coming out, Ford had some dealers try out putting in friction modifier in the MT-82. Now, I don't recall if it was the XL-18 or the XL-3, but I do remember the results. At first the transmissions would shift better, but then quickly degrade not too long after. I can tell you that many friction modifier fluids have sulfurs in them that can eat away at syncronizer backing material and even base material depending on what the make up of the synchronizer is. Anything brass will get eaten away, which is why GL-5's typically can't be used in a manual transmission (GL-4's are much lower sulfur).

Last time I had an MT-82 apart, back in 2011 or 2012, the synchronizers and/or multi-cones had a sintered brass-composite backing and most, if not all, of the synchronizers were made of steel.

I found a picture of the label from XL-18 and it doesn't look to have sulfur in it.
http://www.mustangevolution.com/forum/attachments/130759d1380471534-xl-18.jpg

For me, MTL works and was designed to work in manuals transmissions. So, I'm not messing with it.

On another note, you guys may want to ensure you are running a good brake fluid in your brake AND CLUTCH SYSTEM. I know from first hand experience that running a crappy (even a crappy DOT 4) can cause notchy shifting.

Case in point:
-Ran the factory DOT 3 fill in my car. Tracked the car totally stock (yes, not the best idea).
-Re-did my entire brake setup and replaced the fluid with Prestone DOT 4 (hey, it's DOT 4 and the spec. sheet indicated it was better than stock).
-At first, everything worked great. Then my brake feel fell off slightly, but still not bad. However, my shifting quickly became very noticeably notchy. So much so that I began to think my clutch hydraulics had a leak in them or I had a clutch problem. Check for leaks. Check for excessive clutch dust as best I could. Checked my clutch reserve distance. Even checked my trans fluid level. All FINE.
-A few weeks later I decided to install brake cooling ducts and upgrade my brake fluid to something much better - Motul 600... Not only did my brakes feel much more positive, but my shifting all-of-a-sudden got dramatically less notchy!

I've talked to some other racers about this finding with brake fluid and others have found them same too. This came to a surprise to me as I have never read anyone mention this or heard anyone openly note it.
 
WorldFamousZ said:
There's a LOT of confusion about this fluid in all the posts I read including the links above.
Seems like FORD can't get their act together on letting the customer or service know for that matter, what the correct course of action is.

I've called and talked to 4 different dealers and talked to their service advisers and in a few instances service managers and I literally have gotten 4 different stories about what fluid / additive or no additive etc to use is.

For now I'll use this additive since there IS documentation by FORD explicitly stating to use it and no clear guidance otherwise.

And to me, the issue doesn't seem put to rest at all, considering the lack of real information combined with the fact that FORD seems to be changing their minds all the time about what to use.
It's very clear to me and the only confusion is at the dealer level. Unfortunately not all dealers have the latest information. Deysha has been working on Mustang forums for at least four years and is very familiar with our cars and the associated problems with them. She works for Ford and spends a lot of her time helping the forum community. On many occasions she has posted information directly from Ford engineers. She specifically states the June 2013 publication is outdated and in my mind there it no reason to doubt her. You should call the Ford customer service number below her name or go to one of the other forums and send her a PM asking for verification if you still have questions on this subject.
 

302 Hi Pro

Boss 302 - Racing Legend to Modern Muscle Car
2,009
441
Southeast
MountainGT said:
I've run MTL in a '12 V6 and now in my '12 GT and I have no complaints.

Back when the '11's were first coming out, Ford had some dealers try out putting in friction modifier in the MT-82. Now, I don't recall if it was the XL-18 or the XL-3, but I do remember the results. At first the transmissions would shift better, but then quickly degrade not too long after. I can tell you that many friction modifier fluids have sulfurs in them that can eat away at syncronizer backing material and even base material depending on what the make up of the synchronizer is. Anything brass will get eaten away, which is why GL-5's typically can't be used in a manual transmission (GL-4's are much lower sulfur).

Last time I had an MT-82 apart, back in 2011 or 2012, the synchronizers and/or multi-cones had a sintered brass-composite backing and most, if not all, of the synchronizers were made of steel.

I found a picture of the label from XL-18 and it doesn't look to have sulfur in it.
http://www.mustangevolution.com/forum/attachments/130759d1380471534-xl-18.jpg

For me, MTL works and was designed to work in manuals transmissions. So, I'm not messing with it.

On another note, you guys may want to ensure you are running a good brake fluid in your brake AND CLUTCH SYSTEM. I know from first hand experience that running a crappy (even a crappy DOT 4) can cause notchy shifting.

Case in point:
-Ran the factory DOT 3 fill in my car. Tracked the car totally stock (yes, not the best idea).
-Re-did my entire brake setup and replaced the fluid with Prestone DOT 4 (hey, it's DOT 4 and the spec. sheet indicated it was better than stock).
-At first, everything worked great. Then my brake feel fell off slightly, but still not bad. However, my shifting quickly became very noticeably notchy. So much so that I began to think my clutch hydraulics had a leak in them or I had a clutch problem. Check for leaks. Check for excessive clutch dust as best I could. Checked my clutch reserve distance. Even checked my trans fluid level. All FINE.
-A few weeks later I decided to install brake cooling ducts and upgrade my brake fluid to something much better - Motul 600... Not only did my brakes feel much more positive, but my shifting all-of-a-sudden got dramatically less notchy!

I've talked to some other racers about this finding with brake fluid and others have found them same too. This came to a surprise to me as I have never read anyone mention this or heard anyone openly note it.

Hi MountainGT:

I'm getting ready to service the Brake Fluid and go with the Motul 600 D4 fluid. Flushing brake system is no issue but I have a question about the clutch. On the 11's up, I'm told Ford discontinued the clutch line bleeder valve. My 12 Boss has no bleeder valve at the Trans case bell housing.

How does one bleed this line? Was it necessary for you to disconnect the line at the Trans to drain the clutch line?

Also, what are your thoughts on the BEST transmission gear oil, and also for the rear Diff?

Thanks in advance for your thoughts on Fluids and Gear Oil.
302 Hi Pro.
 

TMSBOSS

Spending my pension on car parts and track fees.
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NFSBOSS said:
I've used Redline for the trans and diff although I now have Ford spec oils. The clutch line is self bleeding but pump the pedal 50 times for good measure.

Connecting a vacuum pump to the reservoir also helps to bleed the clutch fluid.
 
TMSBOSS said:
Connecting a vacuum pump to the reservoir also helps to bleed the clutch fluid.

Yep.

ClutchBleeding_zpsb8592bff.jpg

Or look at the FRPP instructions for installing the SS clutch line

https://fordracingparts.com/download/instructionsheets/FordInstShtM-7512-A.pdf
 
302 Hi Pro said:
Hi MountainGT:

I'm getting ready to service the Brake Fluid and go with the Motul 600 D4 fluid. Flushing brake system is no issue but I have a question about the clutch. On the 11's up, I'm told Ford discontinued the clutch line bleeder valve. My 12 Boss has no bleeder valve at the Trans case bell housing.

How does one bleed this line? Was it necessary for you to disconnect the line at the Trans to drain the clutch line?

Also, what are your thoughts on the BEST transmission gear oil, and also for the rear Diff?

Thanks in advance for your thoughts on Fluids and Gear Oil.
302 Hi Pro.
MT-82: Redline MTL or Amsoil Synchromesh

Rear Axle: Depends on your diff. Stock Boss Torsen or Trac-Lok: Motorcraft refill or Redline.

You can purge the clutch by disconnecting the line or using a vacuume pump and fluid dump reservoir. To bleed, either pump the clutch until you feel resistance, then 100-200 times more, let the car sit 30-60 min and re-pump 50-100 times. Or use a vacuume pump like the workshop manual says.
 
Boss0960 said:
This is a spot on review. I have a '13 Boss with the notchy, hooking shifter. I have only had one chance to drive the Boss since I put the XL-18 in but within a few miles, it felt like the transmission smoothed out to the way one would expect from the factory. I look forward to my next ride when the snow is gone to see if the notchiness while cold is gone as well.

Well, now that the weather has broken and I've had a chance to drive the Boss again, I can say that the XL-18 has not solved my issues. It doesn't crunch like it did but it still has to fumble it's way into gear like shifting through a bag of marbles. Next phase of attempting a fix is under way.

I've had the Boss over a year and still, any hope of HPDE or performance driving in my Boss is out of the question until or unless I can get the transmission working properly.
 

Justin

Save the dawn for your dishes!!!
Boss0960 said:
Well, now that the weather has broken and I've had a chance to drive the Boss again, I can say that the XL-18 has not solved my issues. It doesn't crunch like it did but it still has to fumble it's way into gear like shifting through a bag of marbles. Next phase of attempting a fix is under way.

I've had the Boss over a year and still, any hope of HPDE or performance driving in my Boss is out of the question until or unless I can get the transmission working properly.
dont take offense as I don't mean to but could it be driver? Has someone else with experience with the mt82 drove it besides you?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Justin said:
dont take offense as I don't mean to but could it be driver? Has someone else with experience with the mt82 drove it besides you?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The mechanic who rebuilt the transmission the first time drove it and clearly acknowledged a problem. Too bad he gave it back to me acting exactly the way I dropped it off.
 

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