The Mustang Forum for Track & Racing Enthusiasts

Taking your Mustang to an open track/HPDE event for the first time? Do you race competitively? This forum is for you! Log in to remove most ads.

  • Welcome to the Ford Mustang forum built for owners of the Mustang GT350, BOSS 302, GT500, and all other S550, S197, SN95, Fox Body and older Mustangs set up for open track days, road racing, and/or autocross. Join our forum, interact with others, share your build, and help us strengthen this community!

Front Hubs & Studs?

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

I have a 2013 Boss 302. Owned it since new. I track the car 10-15 days a year.

A group of guys I go to the track with all have Corvettes of various generations. We were talking and they said they replaced the front hubs on their 'vettes every year. Was at a track with a guy who had a Nissan GTR and his wheel decided to not go the same way as the rest of the car on a turn. The stud's on the front driver sheared off. Fortunately minimal damage and no injuries.

So I got to thinking maybe I should look at replacing the studs all the way around. Then got to wondering if I should replace the hubs at the same time.

My question is, is this something that you guys do on a regular basis? If so, how often?

I've looked at the studs and they are in great shape with no visible signs of wear. Front hubs look great and have no play in them.
 

ArizonaBOSS

Because racecar.
Moderator
8,730
2,734
Arizona, USA
The front hubs should be considered a maintenance item; I typically replace them each season. You might as well get the ones with the ARP studs already pressed-in.

For the rears, I put a set of studs in and just left them there. I have a handful of spare studs for both front/rear in case anything gets messed up at the track.
 
The front hubs should be considered a maintenance item; I typically replace them each season. You might as well get the ones with the ARP studs already pressed-in.

For the rears, I put a set of studs in and just left them there. I have a handful of spare studs for both front/rear in case anything gets messed up at the track.

+1. I've only replaced my front hubs once in the last 6 years, but this it the route I took too, with the pre-installed ARP studs. Pretty easy job in the garage on jack stands. Backs were easy-peasy with a few whacks of the hammer and the Lisle stud tool for the install.
 
Last edited:

Wingrider

'11 GT500, 99% Track Car. Lots of mods & I coach
My local shop installed the last set and suggested replacing them (in my case) every couple of years. I just had that done this year at the 2-1/2 year mark along with new nuts. The hubs also were replaced. I am a little off cycle and fewer track days the last couple of years but if I can get back to my old schedule I'll probably also replace the hubs and studs every year.
 
Well you guys convinced me. I just ordered the FRPP hubs w/ ARP studs then the rear studs as well. Installation of the hubs looks pretty straight forward and stud replacement on the rear can't be that bad!

During the process my wife finally convinced me to purchase the Quickjack Lift. My garage ceiling height isn't enough for a full lift and this will most certainly be much better than all the up and down and jack stands. Seems I spend more time jacking the car up and getting the jack stands set than I do doing the work.
 
Hmmm, nobody here thinks annual replacement for a dozen or so track days is excessive? On my c5z 65k miles 20x autox a year and 3-4 hpde a year I am still on original gm fronts (no play when jacked up 12/6 test. I have replaced both rears at about 50k because they did present with excess play (for my liking).

I also have run Kumho 710, Hoosier A6/7 and 200 tw high perf. tires for those years.

Is it possible/true that Shelby's are hard on hubs or that they just don't hold up as well under hard use as the Vette hubs?

I did however replace all the stock studs with ARP immediately when I acquired the car.

A hub usually gives you a warning, not so much with studs.

:)
 

Grant 302

basic and well known psychic
Hmmm, nobody here thinks annual replacement for a dozen or so track days is excessive?

Depends how you drive and what grip levels you're at. Ask Rob @blacksheep-1 how often they replace on their PWC cars.

I haven't replaced mine yet, but keep a spare hub with me on track days. Check for play in the hub and condition of studs every tire change.
 
6,362
8,186
Depends how you drive and what grip levels you're at. Ask Rob @blacksheep-1 how often they replace on their PWC cars.

I haven't replaced mine yet, but keep a spare hub with me on track days. Check for play in the hub and condition of studs every tire change.

The cars are inspected and dyno'd after every event, we've replaced K members (remember the great 2 wheel shot at Barber?) hubs lower control arms and tie rod ends at the track, even after careful inspection. Sometimes, parts just go. I don't think replacing hubs after a dozen track days is excessive at al, at the very least I would thoroughly inspect them.

Standing by for cracked cradle in 3...2....1...

qFrE6hnl.jpg
 
The cars are inspected and dyno'd after every event, we've replaced K members (remember the great 2 wheel shot at Barber?) hubs lower control arms and tie rod ends at the track, even after careful inspection. Sometimes, parts just go. I don't think replacing hubs after a dozen track days is excessive at al, at the very least I would thoroughly inspect them.

Standing by for cracked cradle in 3...2....1...

qFrE6hnl.jpg
Always wondered how you can get further down on the curbing without being 2 wheels off just go 2 wheels up.
 
Even with all the abuse we throw at them, (sticky tires and curb hopping) they are a pretty tough bearing. Usually studs die from being over-torqued, or a lugnut that gets jammed. Check the hub nut torque as that can loosen up and cause failures. We found sometimes that they would start to growl before we could feel play in them. If you start to hear a loud growl on track, its time change it, even if its not loose.

Andrew
 
Great info everyone. Thank you. I have the rear studs in hand and hubs with ARP studs on the way. Seems to make sense to replace after the last couple of years on the track. Better safe than sorry.
 
From the parts list from FRPP they are not the same part. Looks like the GT350 also has rear hub assembly. My guess is due to the IRS.
 
The studs are 1/2" on the S197 and 14mm on the S550. There are not many parts that are interchangeable between the two platforms.
 

TMO Supporting Vendors

Top