Hey Guys, I'm selling my well sorted and taken care of GT350 out here in the Austin area. Absolutely love this car, but I need to make tough choices that are better for my family's needs. All the details are below. Thanks for reading! Mark. https://austin.craigslist.org/cto/d/cedar-park-2017-shelby-gt350/6954904904.html Asking Price: $47,000 OBO Lowballers will be ignored. Willing to sell for $46k without the extra set of wheels. VIN: 1FA6P8JZ7H5520492 Miles: 11,000 Spec: Oxford White with Blue Stripe (w/ Recaro Seats) Technology Package (Sync with Apple CarPlay and Android Auto) (Track pack is standard in 2017) Tires: 305/30/19 Bridgestone RE71R Square Setup Warranty: Under new car factory warranty as well as the Ford Protect Premium Care Service Plan. Pretty much everything on the car is covered for 75,000 miles and expires 9/25/2022. (https://fordprotect.ford.com/premiumcare/) Add on’s and Modifications: * Suntek Full Front End Clear Bra (and parts of the rear rocker panel) - $1500 * Ford Performance Oil Separators (prevents oil from going into your intake manifold) - $300 * Corsa Double Helix X Pipe (basically a resonator delete like the GT350R has from the factory. Sounds better.) - $600 * Maximum Motorsports Camber Plates (Allows more front camber adjustment during alignments) - $250 * Steeda Subframe Alignment Kit (makes sure your subframe is perfectly aligned for better rear alignment) - $40 * Ford Performance Rear Toe Link Bearing (decreases the amount of toe change due to flex in the factory bushings) - $85 * Ford Performance Springs (lowers the car ever so slightly as well as slightly stiffer spring rates) - $275 * BMR Rear Adjustable Sway Bar (3 way adjustable to help dial out understeer) - $180 * BMR IRS Cradle Lockout (helps prevent subframe movement which means better handling, stability, and less wheel hop) - $220 * BMR Adjustable Toe Rods (allows a bit more camber adjustment range in the rear) - $230 * BMR Rear Control Arm Bushings (replaces soft rubber bushings that flexed which made the rear end feel soft and unsettled) - $230 * BMR Low Profile Jacking Rails (allows you to jack up the side of the car anywhere along the rail) - $120 * Caliperflexion Brake Stud Extension Kit (Makes changing front brake pads much faster and easier) - $170 * ARP Extended Wheel Studs (stronger than factory and longer to support the Apex square wheel setup) - $210 * Ford Performance Wheel Nuts (open ended lugnuts for the ARP wheel studs) - $50 * JR Motorsports 25mm Front Spacers (used for the Apex wheels to be a square setup and clear the front brakes) - $120 * 19x11 ET52 Apex SM-10 (with separate TPM Sensors. All 4 wheels are the same size so you can rotate front to back. Also much lighter than stock which you can feel.) - $1800 * ZL1 Front Tow Hook (this car doesn’t have factory tow hook inputs and this car is low. Front tow hook is a must in emergency situations) - $190 * Redline Elite Hood Struts (hood props from the factory. These are premium gas hood struts and are awesome) - $120 * Ford Performance Shift Knob (I prefer ball-shaped shifters, personally) - $70 * Shifteck Alcantara Shift/Brake Boots & Center Console Cover (the factory fake leather looks very greasy and cheap. These match the steering wheel and have white stitching like the wheel too) - $120 Factory parts that come with the sale (not on the car): * OEM Wheels with TPM Sensors installed (no tires) * OEM Shift knob (if you don’t like ball shift knobs) * Brand new extra driver side wheel well trim and front undercarriage panel * Most of the factory parts that were replaced with the mods above (though maybe not some of the bushings and stock x pipe. I’ll have to gather everything up and see). Owner’s Notes: I never thought I would ever buy a Ford in my lifetime, let alone a Mustang. My previous performance cars were an E92 M3 and Cayman GT4. I also drive a Honda S2000 as a track car. One test drive in a GT350 completely sold me as the car that would be perfect for me as a street car and I am very sad that I have to let it go. Ok so I don’t HAVE to let it go and I don’t want to, but having 2 cars that can’t transport my 3 kids around and only I can drive is a bit selfish. And I’ve been taking my wife’s only car multiple times a week to transport my mountain bike to the trails, leaving her stuck at home. So I decided to sell this car and get something more appropriate for the whole family. I will really miss this car, but sometimes making the hard choice is the right one. You don’t have to be a mustang fan to like this car. I always HATED mustangs. But this car completely changed my prejudices against them. The driving experience in this car is just sublime. I’ve enjoyed this car just as much as I did my M3 and GT4. The dealership performed the first oil change after proper break-in at 1000 miles and I performed the second two (at 5k and 10k respectively) myself. My car does not have any oil consumption issues. I check the oil every 2-4 weeks (depending on how often I drive) and keep the revs low and throttle light until the engine warms to around 180 degrees. The car runs flawlessly and performs even better on the street (and track obviously) from the modifications I have done. I consider myself an advanced driver (been driving on track since 2012). I have a fairly good sense of how a car should feel performance-wise and have made very basic modifications that improve the handling of the car without making it harsh on the road. The other modifications are what most people who buy these cars end up doing anyways so you don’t have to spend all that extra money doing the common upgrades if you buy my car. I also keep a log book of all the oil changes and modifications done to the car along with all the receipts for the parts. I’ve taken this car a couple times to Driveway Austin to run a couple track sessions, but it has never been to a track day. It’s been on track at Driveway 3-4x and for a 20 minute session each time. This car rarely sits outside for long. I work from home so it mostly sits in my garage and I take it out for errands. The longest it sits out in the sun is when I work for a few hours at a coffee shop. I wash the car myself (using de-ionized water) and learned from a professional detailer who used to prep cars for concours in Pebble Beach. But this is not a garage queen. I thoroughly enjoy it as a street car, but do my best to take good care of it as I do all of my things. All of the modifications I have done probably make this a huge bargain. The motor has never been touched with mods. I don’t think this car needs any more power than it already has. If you need more power, your driving skills are probably lacking or you are just buying the wrong car to begin with. This car was driven, hard at times, and extremely well taken care of. I’ve learned from some really talented car detailers, suspension tuners, and mechanics over the years. I know how to drive and work on my own cars. This is a good car. If you are looking at other cars with a similar asking price and mileage, you should definitely buy this one.