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S197 FTWMS #50 S197 NASA Super Touring Racecar Build Thread Profile - S197 Mustangs

captdistraction

GrumpyRacer
1,797
1,374
Phoenix, Az
Mostly for myself, this is the gripe list / maintenance list for the next event April 24 (and another reminder to myself, that's in 3 weeks, idiot)

  1. Fill oil to normal level on dipstick - 2QTs low
  2. Replace Trans Fluid
  3. Replace Rear Bumper cover
  4. Try to get new rear bumper cover painted
  5. Replace/repair AxleBack Exhaust
  6. Install new battery - update battery tray to accomodate new AGM and Li battery widths
  7. Install new Cortex Racing bits
  8. Replace front Rotor Rings
  9. Replace rear axle fluid
  10. Install new Axles with OPMustang prototype 14mm stud kit (find machining equipment or services)
  11. Procure extra spare rear rotor
  12. Collect CANbus dump for AIM support
  13. Fix front splitter (optional - its still "intact" - cut this from list first if run out of time and budget)
I think that's it for now, but I will keep updates on this stuff as I go.
 
Last edited:
619
843
Exp. Type
Time Attack
Exp. Level
Under 3 Years
SoCal
Interested to hear more on the OP 14mm rear axle studs - will be nice to have them match the S550 fronts for anyone that’s converted.
 

captdistraction

GrumpyRacer
1,797
1,374
Phoenix, Az
Interested to hear more on the OP 14mm rear axle studs - will be nice to have them match the S550 fronts for anyone that’s converted.
right off the bat it will take some work, the stock replacement rear stud is .610, and the OPM stud is .625 or 5/8. I'll need to get the axles reamed or overdrilled with a 39/64" bit - however I don't have the equipment here to ensure squareness. I'll poke around for a machine shop or see if I can find a hub clamp/guide kit.
 

captdistraction

GrumpyRacer
1,797
1,374
Phoenix, Az
Was a passing thought, but I don't want to invest in axles (unless they lean inwards at the top and "float") - but for those considering it, keep in mind a lot of aftermarket axles perform more poorly on the road course than the OEM units - some break, some yield more (by design - as most are not built for lateral loads but for straightline acceleration forces)
 

captdistraction

GrumpyRacer
1,797
1,374
Phoenix, Az
Well, some progress made this week - I've been very under the weather with a pesky GI deal, but with some help from friends knocked a number of items off the list on the car, but found more damage. I might not make the next NASA event as I'm just running out of time, hopefully I won't end up yielding my series lead over it. Car is in race-able shape, but no rear bumper cover (which is a requirement for my series to meet a 50/50 rule). The parts were delayed a couple weeks via the freight carriers but finally landed at my dealer this week and are in the hands of the painter who's done all the great work on this car. .
IMG_4095.jpg

We did find some more damage under the car, some more sheetmetal had yielded around where the bumper brackets mount, and one of my new overaxle pipes had collapsed at the muffler flange. I'm not sure how easily repaired these things are or if I should just replace it. I was loaned a set of axle back mufflers (look for them on the classifieds soon!) while my roush kit gets repaired or replaced. So far my initial estimate of $1400 in damage was pretty spot on.
IMG_4123.jpg


Did get some new rotor rings installed from @OPMustang Tim - The old ones made 3 combined seasons worth of track time, which is incredible as I do like late hard braking and lots of trailbraking. I've gone through 2 sets of rear rotors in that time.
IMG_4004.jpgIMG_4006.jpg

I also managed to kill two of my tire temperature sensors, they're pretty hardy devices, but rock strikes are rock strikes. I'm having them repaired and will be building small debris shields to protect the sensor element.
IMG_4008.jpg


Finally, still fighting spacers on the car - I have moved the coilovers back slightly and in slightly, but without 6mm of spacer there's a bit of rub between the shock collar and the wheel. If I were willing to give up the tender spring stack I believe I could move the perches down enough to compensate.
IMG_4121.jpg
Progress is progress, but I definitely need a few good breaks and wind on my back to keep racing in the next few weeks.
 
4,621
4,533
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Pleasanton: 1/2 way between Sonoma and Laguna Seca
Well, some progress made this week - I've been very under the weather with a pesky GI deal, but with some help from friends knocked a number of items off the list on the car, but found more damage. I might not make the next NASA event as I'm just running out of time, hopefully I won't end up yielding my series lead over it. Car is in race-able shape, but no rear bumper cover (which is a requirement for my series to meet a 50/50 rule). The parts were delayed a couple weeks via the freight carriers but finally landed at my dealer this week and are in the hands of the painter who's done all the great work on this car. .
View attachment 64415

We did find some more damage under the car, some more sheetmetal had yielded around where the bumper brackets mount, and one of my new overaxle pipes had collapsed at the muffler flange. I'm not sure how easily repaired these things are or if I should just replace it. I was loaned a set of axle back mufflers (look for them on the classifieds soon!) while my roush kit gets repaired or replaced. So far my initial estimate of $1400 in damage was pretty spot on.
View attachment 64417


Did get some new rotor rings installed from @OPMustang Tim - The old ones made 3 combined seasons worth of track time, which is incredible as I do like late hard braking and lots of trailbraking. I've gone through 2 sets of rear rotors in that time.
View attachment 64412View attachment 64413

I also managed to kill two of my tire temperature sensors, they're pretty hardy devices, but rock strikes are rock strikes. I'm having them repaired and will be building small debris shields to protect the sensor element.
View attachment 64414


Finally, still fighting spacers on the car - I have moved the coilovers back slightly and in slightly, but without 6mm of spacer there's a bit of rub between the shock collar and the wheel. If I were willing to give up the tender spring stack I believe I could move the perches down enough to compensate.
View attachment 64416
Progress is progress, but I definitely need a few good breaks and wind on my back to keep racing in the next few weeks.
Dump the tenders. My 12's clear fine without them
 
4,621
4,533
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Pleasanton: 1/2 way between Sonoma and Laguna Seca
The one concern I have is the JRZ bottom mounts just slip on, if the spring were to unseat there's a possibility they wouldn't be retained. I'll have to poke around but thats the easy solution if I can lock down the bottom seat.
How about shorter springs...
 

captdistraction

GrumpyRacer
1,797
1,374
Phoenix, Az
ah, I was confused by that statement, but (I think) you mean a shorter spring but retain the tender to allow preload on the bottom seat to be maintained at all times (and thus tucking the stack down more). I do need to measure my springs and see if I can get away with that without giving up travel.
 
4,621
4,533
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Pleasanton: 1/2 way between Sonoma and Laguna Seca
ah, I was confused by that statement, but (I think) you mean a shorter spring but retain the tender to allow preload on the bottom seat to be maintained at all times (and thus tucking the stack down more). I do need to measure my springs and see if I can get away with that without giving up travel.
Bingo.
 
4,621
4,533
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Pleasanton: 1/2 way between Sonoma and Laguna Seca
hmm, I'm at 7x250 right now:

View attachment 64423
View attachment 64424

I'll have to see what I can come up with to determine if there's any issue running 6x250- the 4.5" measurement is roughly my max travel, so I believe that should be more than fine, since 2" of that is just in the tender springs' path.
Wow that's short....I have 8" but again, no tender. I'd look at ways to not run the tender.
I also don't run those bump stops.
 

captdistraction

GrumpyRacer
1,797
1,374
Phoenix, Az
do you run a different stop or just not use them altogether? I've considered not running them, some JRZ shocks are mentioned as not needing them, but others do. I'm not sure on my set (as it was a spare set for a Boss S/R Car when I bought them). other thought is I could just raise the ride height some. I'll have to get it back on the ground soon, but I was pretty low before.
 
4,621
4,533
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Pleasanton: 1/2 way between Sonoma and Laguna Seca
do you run a different stop or just not use them altogether? I've considered not running them, some JRZ shocks are mentioned as not needing them, but others do. I'm not sure on my set (as it was a spare set for a Boss S/R Car when I bought them). other thought is I could just raise the ride height some. I'll have to get it back on the ground soon, but I was pretty low before.
My JRI's have a bump stop on the shaft.
The corkscrew is as big a compression event as you're likely to see and my bump stops show no sign of abuse, so I'm going with it.
 
Well, some progress made this week - I've been very under the weather with a pesky GI deal, but with some help from friends knocked a number of items off the list on the car, but found more damage. I might not make the next NASA event as I'm just running out of time, hopefully I won't end up yielding my series lead over it. Car is in race-able shape, but no rear bumper cover (which is a requirement for my series to meet a 50/50 rule). The parts were delayed a couple weeks via the freight carriers but finally landed at my dealer this week and are in the hands of the painter who's done all the great work on this car. .
View attachment 64415

We did find some more damage under the car, some more sheetmetal had yielded around where the bumper brackets mount, and one of my new overaxle pipes had collapsed at the muffler flange. I'm not sure how easily repaired these things are or if I should just replace it. I was loaned a set of axle back mufflers (look for them on the classifieds soon!) while my roush kit gets repaired or replaced. So far my initial estimate of $1400 in damage was pretty spot on.
View attachment 64417


Did get some new rotor rings installed from @OPMustang Tim - The old ones made 3 combined seasons worth of track time, which is incredible as I do like late hard braking and lots of trailbraking. I've gone through 2 sets of rear rotors in that time.
View attachment 64412View attachment 64413

I also managed to kill two of my tire temperature sensors, they're pretty hardy devices, but rock strikes are rock strikes. I'm having them repaired and will be building small debris shields to protect the sensor element.
View attachment 64414


Finally, still fighting spacers on the car - I have moved the coilovers back slightly and in slightly, but without 6mm of spacer there's a bit of rub between the shock collar and the wheel. If I were willing to give up the tender spring stack I believe I could move the perches down enough to compensate.
View attachment 64416
Progress is progress, but I definitely need a few good breaks and wind on my back to keep racing in the next few weeks.

You might be able to turn down the OD diameter of the adjusting collar on a lathe.

I assume your tender is 2.25" OD and the collar is made for a 60mm spring (2.36").
It looks like if the collar match the tender then it will clear according to the last picture.
 
4,621
4,533
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Pleasanton: 1/2 way between Sonoma and Laguna Seca

Bill Pemberton

0ld Ford Automotive Racing Terror
5,897
4,505
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Blair, Nebraska
You are a " Star," video coverage with NASA. Watched yesterday and now both you and AZBoss have had film showings with NASA -- if memory serves me right? So far they have not bothered with me, ha.
 

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