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G-Loc vs Pagid vs Raybestos

bpracer

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Porterfield's R4 compound is probably close to the stock GT350 pad formulation as far as effectiveness in braking. They will crumble when heated excessively while the ST43 will be unfazed.

R4 to ST43 is the only head to head racing experience I have and basically I saw no downside to the ST43. They lasted longer, took more heat, rotor life was not impacted, and the ST43 was much more effective braking. ST42, I believe, has less initial bite. Some people had problems with initial brake lock up with ST43 (no ABS!) so they went with ST42.



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kombo

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Thanks for the info! That was very helpful. They had recommended the st42 for the rear, but then we figured out it was not an item they stocked, and it had a pretty long lead time. That led me to going with the st43 all around.
Any advice on the rotors? Should I cleanup the stock ones and use them until they're done, or go with giro disc now as a dedicated track rotor?

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Black Boss

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Best combo I found was G-Loc R18 up front R16 Rear. I'm very hard on brakes. Front pads lasted 5-8 hours depending on track. Rear Pads 15+ hours. Front (GiroDisc) Rotors 17 hours, Rear rotors last forever.

I ran through a single set of OE front pads in 2-2.5 hours.
 

StigsBaldBrother

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Best combo I found was G-Loc R18 up front R16 Rear. I'm very hard on brakes. Front pads lasted 5-8 hours depending on track. Rear Pads 15+ hours. Front (GiroDisc) Rotors 17 hours, Rear rotors last forever.

I ran through a single set of OE front pads in 2-2.5 hours.
I concur that he is both hard on brakes and R18 and R16 combo is the best combo. :)
 

flyhalf

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Takimg back this post.
Have you tried reybestos on track?

I have now r16 r12 on my gt18
Car has girodisc 6piston and airducts.
Gloc has a great initial bite. Last 5trackdays. (I'm Pretty hard on brakes)
However ,as happened with carbotech they leave tons of hotspots making the brakes vibrating during hard stops.

I've heard great thing about raybestos so i might pull the trigger on them.
I'm looking for someone who has experience with gloc and raybestos to give me some comparison.
I know someone will say "it depends how fast you go"
For me
On track I push hard. And i look for some perfect initial bite with a nice modulation.

Please let me know

Ale


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Bill Pemberton

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Like Black Boss I am very hard on brake pads , and I also use the G-Locs in an 18 up front ( I prefer a lower heat resistant pad on the rear, R10 ) , so I concur on his suggestion. I don't know anyone using Raybestos with a Mustang , but the guy I know who uses them on an ACR Viper loves them. Have used PFCs and have to say they are probably my second choice behind the G-Locs.

PS - I always get my G-Locs pre-bedded!
 

flyhalf

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Me too. It is the second set. But i really need to have a comparison with gloc.
I'm thinking to buy them. Use at the track where I have timing already and have GLoc has back up.
Question is
St 43 45 or 47?

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Bouncing Soul

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I don’t have comparative knowledge against other pads, or even if I’m a hard braker, but I had great luck with the Pagids. Tons of meat left after a weekend, rotors still look good and work good on the street too.
 

Duane Black

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I ran DTC 60 front and rear at sebring and wore out the front DTC 60 in literally one DAY!!! That was a Chin Day with about 2 hours of driving, but still... damn, just intense.

The rear were good and I still run them actually. I bought ST43 after my horrid experience at Sebring with DTC 60. The ST43 ran me through Road Atlanta, Charlotte, VIR, VIR again, then Charlotte and Daytona. Each event was roughly 1-2 hours of driving per day, and I had 2 drivers at one of the VIR and both Charlotte events. I swapped in a new set of ST43 for instructor clinic at Roebling, and since then have VIR, Roebling, and Road Atlanta. This set doesn't seem to be lasting as long and a friend who ordered a set seems to have the same opinion.

Also, the ST43 warp rotors. I've probably run 4 sets of Rotors in this time easily. That, or I mistake material build up. Coudl be. The ST43 also cracked 2 rear brake rotors on me. Could be a coincidence, but I'm back to running DTC 60 on the rear and the rotors seem less aggravated with my behavior at least.

They're not a pad for someone who doesn't like noise. Sometimes they're as queit as a church mouse, other times they're the organ. On the track, they WORK though.

My accelerated wear could be due to switching to RE71R and then RS4 over Michelin Pilot Sport PS2 tires when I went to that second set of brakes.

Porterfield is a good company too. I actually got them to make me one brake pad once when a caliper ruined one pad for me.
 

Bill Pemberton

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One thing that I failed to ask was whether the driver posting his comments on this thread was using a stock rotor, a slotted rotor, or a two piece rotor. I have seen the stock rotors ( sure they are quite cheap) warp with various pads with those of us that brake hard and late, but this is seldom the case with a two piece rotor. With so many of us running different rotors , this would be solid information imho , to help the OP decide. I, for one, am running two piece Brembo rotors ( they came with the car ), though I will likely switch to Girodisc when these finally need replaced.
 

Duane Black

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I’m on stock 2013 gt blank rotors. $35 each from rock auto.

The st43 is a soft pedal when cold, but still grabby. It requires less pedals travel than oem to achieve abs kick in. This also translates to a difficult to modulate pedal for someone without a smooth foot
 

Bill Pemberton

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Really good info Duane , and I used to go through pads super quick with blank rotors, also. The two piece are high priced , but they vent better and will take more heat, so drivers with these will likely see more rotor life and should be more consistent braking deep before heat buildup might occur?
 

flyhalf

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For whom who can

HOW U COMPARE GLOC let's say r16 with
St43

1. Initiale bite
2. How easy is to lock the wheels
3. Fading?
4. Temp resistance
5. Life

Life formme isnimportant but on track safety and perfomance are the key.
Meaning I'm looking more the performance sidenvs longevity



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Duane Black

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I never had fade with st43. Cant compare to the other pad. I have 3” ducts now, but have run this pad without, no issue. Not exceptionally bitey cold, but they get bitey as they warm and will easily engage abs. They were even sold to me as a pad for a heavy car with abs where the owner prioritize durability. I mentioned how mabt events i got. If you want more than what these give you, join a miata forum. I think they’re good to 1500 degrees?
 

flyhalf

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I never had fade with st43. Cant compare to the other pad. I have 3” ducts now, but have run this pad without, no issue. Not exceptionally bitey cold, but they get bitey as they warm and will easily engage abs. They were even sold to me as a pad for a heavy car with abs where the owner prioritize durability. I mentioned how mabt events i got. If you want more than what these give you, join a miata forum. I think they’re good to 1500 degrees?
That's great feedback and no thank you for the miata forum :)
Have you had exp with st45?

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SavetheManuals

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No problem. I'm trying to understand if the R16 are equal to st43 or more to the St 45
I was wondering about 43 vs 45 also, Ken from KNS brakes told me "The -43 is medium friction. The -45 is just a bit more and Mustang Boss is a bit heavy."
Since the 2018 is even heavier than the Boss, I would say the 45 is the way to go for you
 

Coz

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but they get bitey as they warm and will easily engage abs.
Could this be more of a function of the tire or track surface that day? Based on some recent entries in the Lap Time thread I think you're running 275/18 or 285/18 rubber - with the 275's squeezed. Is it possible with either wider wheels and/or wider tires the ABS would not be triggered?
 

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