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I'd contact the shop where you purchased the JRZ's from to get a baseline starting point. For camber -2 will be good for street and track or more for just track. If you're going to adjust back n forth between street and track go at least -2.5 for track.
I looked up Ford Performance Track Handling specs with their recommendation of;
Front Camber -1.55
Total Toe- 0
Rear Camber -1.98
Total Toe 0.23
Will adjust the Front Camber to -2 as a starting point and adjust from there. As I work my way from the tires up...this is definitely something I need to understand and pay attention too.
Thank you so much Ryan for the information. I will research a log and/or create one to annotate the things you've mention and the process going forward.Those specifications from Ford Performance wouldn't be optimal for your application Tommy. If you want to leverage your new wide wheel/tire package and JRZ's, you will need substantially more negative camber up front. If you plan to run 315's, you are going to need that camber for proper front fender clearance as well. How often do you plan to track the car and how often do you use the car on the street? Setting the car up for double duty work will always introduce compromises of course.
We sell custom JRZ suspension packages as well, and whenever we get a set into a clients hands, we follow up with a pretty comprehensive chassis setup email. Acquiring and installing a capable suspension package is only half the battle, setting it up with a good benchmark and then understanding how to make continuous adjustments is essential to get ROI. Since you got the RS ONE's, things wont be very complex. If you sourced these from Maxcyspeed, I would give Stuart a shout as I understand he is quite knowledgable with this chassis.
You will want to start with relatively neutral toe settings (with a little toe in at the rear), and then make tweaks down the road depending on your driving style, local track layout and how the car is reacting etc. The idea is to shake the car down in somewhat of a neutral state, allowing yourself to relearn the limits the chassis with the new suspension and wheels and tires. A lot has changed already, so you do not want to get over ambitious with some of the alignment settings form the get go.
Shaking the car down:The shop you purchased the suspension from may have alternate baseline recommendations for your RS1's based on their testing, but JRZ supplies baseline damper settings with every kit as well.
- Use a pyrometer. High temps or wearing on the insides of the tire will indicate less camber is needed. You are not using the center-meatiest part of the tire under cornering. Conversely, High temps or wearing on the outside shoulders of the tire will indicate more camber is needed.
- Keep a journal or log. Each time you pull into the paddock, record tire data (temps and pressures) and make adjustments. Record cold pressures and hot pressures so you understand the rise and fall (nitrogen will mitigate this).
- Purchase a suspension quick reference guide. Out on track you will need to monitor the cars behavior, and be able to recall those experiences once the session is over. Use a quick reference guide to tune the suspension and tire pressures accordingly.
Start here and complete a few sessions prior to making any changes to get familiar with how the new suspension and alignment has effected the cars ability to negotiate corners, ride over berms, commit to braking zones and throttle on corner exit. To dial the suspension in further to suit your tires, track layout and ultimately your driving style, start increasing rebound by 2 to 4 clicks each session until you start to loose grip (adjust front and rear independently, one at a time). Then back off by single clicks to fine tune. Once front and rear rebound settings are dialed in, repeat the procedure with compression.
Whether you are adjusting ride height, alignment, damper settings, or tire pressures, be sure to do things one at a time while journaling them. The idea is to make an incremental change to the car, get out on track, and get an understanding of how the car has changed - for better or worse.
It is a process, but it's a fun process : )
- Ryan