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Ground Control CC plates

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I just ordered some CC plates to begin a build for lowering my car once more. I was wondering if it is possible to measure and fiddle with camber without going to a shop? Is it as simple as placing an angle finder on the wheel to measure the camber?
 
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You certainly can fiddle with camber without going to a shop. The method you prescribe will do just fine.
However, keep in mind that camber adjustments will affect Toe...
 
boro92 said:
You certainly can fiddle with camber without going to a shop. The method you prescribe will do just fine.
However, keep in mind that camber adjustments will affect Toe...
Aw crap, how does that work if all you are doing is tilting the wheel/
 

ArizonaBOSS

Because racecar.
Moderator
8,730
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Arizona, USA
You're tilting the entire strut. It attaches to the LCA via the steering knuckle/ball joint, which the strut will then rotate around, since your tie rod length is not changing.

The plus side of this is that increasing negative camber also creates a bit of toe-out, which is helpful for track driving. I would have the alignment set to Zero Toe when the camber plate is in your preferred "street" setting, that way you will get toe-out when you increase the negative camber for the track.
 
ArizonaBOSS said:
You're tilting the entire strut. It attaches to the LCA via the steering knuckle/ball joint, which the strut will then rotate around, since your tie rod length is not changing.

The plus side of this is that increasing negative camber also creates a bit of toe-out, which is helpful for track driving. I would have the alignment set to Zero Toe when the camber plate is in your preferred "street" setting, that way you will get toe-out when you increase the negative camber for the track.

Interesting, I will then probably get it set for street and mark it and then for the track move them to increase camber and toe, then hopefully after the track I can move it back to the street setup and everything should be fine.
 
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Brandon302 said:
Interesting, I will then probably get it set for street and mark it and then for the track move them to increase camber and toe, then hopefully after the track I can move it back to the street setup and everything should be fine.

Yup, that's what many people do :)
Though if it were me, I'd just leave it if the car isn't a DD anyway.
 
I just got my GC camber plates. I got the street versions.

I will give you a quick heads up for when you get your plates: Take a CLOSE look at the brackets that the bolts are fitted in to - the under-side where they tack-weld the bolt and ground them down. On the ones I got, one bolt flange/bracket was grounded down so thin, I pulled the bolt through the bracket at 15 lb/ft when torquing the nuts down.

Also, these plates have the stock-size 6mm bolts/studs, so be CAREFUL on torquing the nuts down. LISTEN to the torque specs! I am not sure why GC didn't up-size the bolts and also use a thicker bracket (at least the brackets) because there is DEFINATELY room to up-size and make the part more robust.

I've been meaning to speak to GC about this (and Hypermotive as I got the plates from them), but I am sort of up-in-the-air as to if I want to make new, thicker brackets and install 8mm or 10mm bolts/studs in or not. The overall design of the GC plates are really nice. I really like the main body of their plate. I am just really disappointed in the approach of design on the bolt/stud brackets... I'm back to the Steedas until I figure out what I want to do (which are also nice pieces, but are limited on camber adjustment).

I can throw up some pictures if you guys want.
 
Link above has the gallery. Here are some pictures more related to the issue I stated:
20140222_1442471.jpg

20140222_1445171.jpg

20140222_1445441.jpg

20140222_1448411.jpg

20140222_1443301.jpg

Torque spec is 18 lb/ft, not 24 lb/ft. Threaded end pulled right out, starting at the thinner end, bending the bracket in the process due to uneven distribution of force. Also, the larger hole/slot in the mount main body being much larger than the fastener diameter itself and the reduced bolt flange (bolt looks to be a flat-flange; maybe a tapered flange would have done the job?).
 
That is unfortunate, I am sure Ground Control and Hypermotive would both be able to take care of you, silly they don't use a bigger stud to hold more torque.
 

Grant 302

basic and well known psychic
Ouch. I was considering these before I got a set of MM plates on their 'deal of the day'.
I wanted the extra caster adjustment from these or Vorshlag plates. Was leaning toward Vorshlag for the solid perch over the rubber perch on the Ground Control unit.
 
Thats too bad... Seems like a weak point. Hope the vendor takes care of your problem.
The design of that bracket could have been made Alot better, but that takes more money in production. Are there any standards that these caster camber plates have to meet?
Please post up on your final outcome on this matter.
 
Brandon302 said:
That is unfortunate, I am sure Ground Control and Hypermotive would both be able to take care of you, silly they don't use a bigger stud to hold more torque.

Ground Control has had an ongoing issue with this. Take a look at the BMW 1-Series forums. The 1M guys had nearly a 100% failure rate from this very issue.
 
modernbeat said:
Ground Control has had an ongoing issue with this. Take a look at the BMW 1-Series forums. The 1M guys had nearly a 100% failure rate from this very issue.

That's great to hear, I wonder what the cost would be to just have plates with bigger studs made, otherwise I think I will foot the extra for some Vorshlag plates.
 
Brandon302 said:
That's great to hear, I wonder what the cost would be to just have plates with bigger studs made, otherwise I think I will foot the extra for some Vorshlag plates.

The issue is that they can't use a stud with a head because they designed the bolt ring to be too close to other components and the perch will touch the bolt head. So instead they grind off the heads and then they pull through. I don't know why they don't revisit the design and do it right. This issue has been going on for far too long.
 
My thinking is to have someone make plates with larger studs and grind down the plastic of the mount
auDrdZM.jpg
Take down a star on either side of the mount and that should allow for larger studs to be run, I know the difference between 18 and 24 ft/lbs probably isn't huge when it comes to tightening but I would feel better if they were stronger.
 

Grant 302

basic and well known psychic
Brandon302 said:
My thinking is to have someone make plates with larger studs and grind down the plastic of the mount

Take down a star on either side of the mount and that should allow for larger studs to be run, I know the difference between 18 and 24 ft/lbs probably isn't huge when it comes to tightening but I would feel better if they were stronger.

I say don't do it. Unless you think life/safety are worth less than the $300-450 to go with a different set.
 

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