GT 350 brake calipers

[steveespo]

Just noticed the 6 piston calipers for the GT 350 (and GT Track pack I think) have a solid bridge so the whole caliper will have to be removed for pad changes. Not the end of the world but more complicated than how we change front pads now.

 

[VoodooBoss]

I asked about that yesterday and they didn't have an answer. Fortunately they use a radial mount which makes removing the caliper about a two minute event vs 20 on our cars.

 

[BigTaco]

That bridge really stiffens the caliper. It's on most of the six piston BBK kits sold by Brembo. The 15" Aftermarket kit sold by Brembo for our cars have this feature but not the OEM GT500 (2013-14) calipers. I thinks it's a great addition to the new car even though pad changes will be different.

 

[fuhrius]

looks as if we'll be able to run a single pad for street and most track use so it'll cut way down on the number of pad changes we do as well.

 

[steveespo]

OEM 6 piston calipers use a bridge bolt to keep the center of the caliper tight. Guess with the radial mount into cast steel spindle pulling threads won't be an issue.

 

[ChopSui]

Pretty sure the spindles are aluminum on the gt350

 

[ArizonaBOSS]

I asked about that yesterday and they didn't have an answer. Fortunately they use a radial mount which makes removing the caliper about a two minute event vs 20 on our cars.

This. Two easily-accessible jet-nuts and the caliper is off in a flash. Should be much faster.

 

[VoodooBoss]

Pretty sure the spindles are aluminum on the gt350

He was referring to the procedure on the S197 cars. Many of us have stripped or had to clean up the threads on our stock Brembo calipers. My Stoptech spec Mustang kit uses a radial mount like what is on the new GT350. Soooo much better. I wish the rears on the 350 used a radial mount as well.

 

[cloud9]

This. Two easily-accessible jet-nuts and the caliper is off in a flash. Should be much faster.

Would you happen to have a shop manual link that shows this? Torque specs on the bolts?

 

[VoodooBoss]

The jet nuts are 44 ft lbs on my Stoptechs.

 

[steveespo]

Are the front hub carriers(spindles) on the GT 350 aluminum? That is cool, stub axle must still be steel though right? Would love it if shop manuals get posted like the 2011-2014 versions out there.
Steve

 

[cloud9]

The jet nuts are 44 ft lbs on my Stoptechs.

Looks like both pad and rotor replacement are easier with that setup than the S197 versions.

 

[VoodooBoss]

Yes they are aluminum and I'm sure they use metal studs. The ones on my Stoptech kit look to be SS.

 

[TMSBOSS]

Yes they are aluminum and I'm sure they use metal studs. The ones on my Stoptech kit look to be SS.

Nice photo. I assume for track prep we will remove the backing plate/dust shield??

 

[VoodooBoss]

Nice photo. I assume for track prep we will remove the backing plate/dust shield??

That's my plan but I won't remove them until the first time I need to service the rotors. I think part of their function is to keep water off of them in the rain and I rarely drive mine in the rain, at least not on purpose. :

 

[ChopSui]

That doesn't look like a nut on the end of that caliper. Looks more like some kind of hex socket bolt. Am I seeing that right?

Here's another view:



Here's the bare knuckle:



If it's what I'm thinking, I might need to get a bigger tube of anti-seize.

 

[ArizonaBOSS]

That doesn't look like a nut on the end of that caliper. Looks more like some kind of hex socket bolt. Am I seeing that right?

Looks like it to me. Hex bolt just as simple. If you don't have a good set of (metric) allen hex sockets for your ratchet, this is a perfect excuse to get one.

 

[VoodooBoss]

That doesn't look like a nut on the end of that caliper. Looks more like some kind of hex socket bolt. Am I seeing that right?

If it's what I'm thinking, I might need to get a bigger tube of anti-seize.

I was wondering the same thing after posting that photo. No posts like my Stoptech setup which is a shame. I wonder if it can be converted? Not screwing a steel bolt into aluminum (again) would be my preference.

 

[Black Boss]

Certainly looked like Steel on Aluminum, so more Anti-seize! Even with improved brakes, pads are going to be changed often...

I've been using Anti-seize with 10% lower torque on the Boss for over a year -- no issues loosing torque, and no more striped threads from the loctite! I would't advocate for a daily driver that does't get torque checked frequently.....

 

[VoodooBoss]

Certainly looked like Steel on Aluminum, so more Anti-seize! Even with improved brakes, pads are going to be changed often...

I've been using Anti-seize with 10% lower torque on the Boss for over a year -- no issues loosing torque, and no more striped threads from the loctite! I would't advocate for a daily driver that does't get torque checked frequently.....

The recommended torque seemed excessive on the stock calipers but I understand that on a street car where the calipers get removed once every 50k miles it's not an issue. I was also using lower torque and no additional loctite on mine. Please use loctite if you're not checking yours regularly.

FWIW the race brembos use a similar setup to my Stoptech's. I wonder if CorteX can make a stud and jet nut conversion kit? Hmmm another product idea... ;D

@CorteX Racing