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GT350 Fluid Temps on Track

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1,249
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In the V6L
So, to recap, the pump pumps and it's controllable with a diagnostic tool. You've tried putting a 500 ohm resistor in place of the temp sensor and it bumps the indicated temp to 300F and still no pump. Presumably by now you've also checked to make sure there's nothing blocking the air flow to the cooler, and that the cooler gets warm if you cycle the pump with warm fluid in the diff.

I'm traveling today but I'll take a look tomorrow when I'm home to see what the service manual says about this stuff.

It sounds like a switch to start the pump is your best option for now - put an extra wire with a light to show on/off - if the ECU actually starts it up, you'll know.
 
So, to recap, the pump pumps and it's controllable with a diagnostic tool. You've tried putting a 500 ohm resistor in place of the temp sensor and it bumps the indicated temp to 300F and still no pump. Presumably by now you've also checked to make sure there's nothing blocking the air flow to the cooler, and that the cooler gets warm if you cycle the pump with warm fluid in the diff.

I'm traveling today but I'll take a look tomorrow when I'm home to see what the service manual says about this stuff.

It sounds like a switch to start the pump is your best option for now - put an extra wire with a light to show on/off - if the ECU actually starts it up, you'll know.
Yes that sums it up, I have gone thru the service manual as well but the problem to me is that the software is not being activated all hardware works, but a second set of eyes doesn't hurt.
 
Is 75w-140 still the recommendation for GT350s? Should I run the pump to remove as much oil as possible or is a drain and refill of the case sufficient?
 

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