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GT350, GT500, Mach 1 oil change with jack stands

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51
48
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
3-5 Years
Phoenix
First off refer to:

@j3st3r post is perfect for the how to's, and processes

I'm posting my version if you don't have a lift available. I found that just 2 clicks up on the jacks allowed me access to oil pan plug and access door. What I found difficult, was the canister filter itself, so I took off the driver side wheel, and its just tucked behind some of the wheel liner plastic. The access door is still important as that's the one place where you can make a total mess when the filter is removed, so the wheel access itself isn't enough.

**now the bs part of my post.. I'm having cervical 7 neck issues where my dominant hand and entire arm goes numb instantaneously when I'm laying down and trying to work on my back. So wether or not that was my difficulty in getting the canister filter out or not, I was able to remove the factory canister and torque the 120lbs on the (new) MMR canister cover and think the 5-7 min wheel removal/install is worth it.
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188
290
Exp. Type
Time Attack
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
75024
inch pounds maybe? The plastic oem canister is not very tight, maybe 20-30ftlbs. It just gets sticky with the o-rings when removing. Ran that hard for 2yrs on my 350.
 
51
48
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
3-5 Years
Phoenix
inch pounds maybe? The plastic oem canister is not very tight, maybe 20-30ftlbs. It just gets sticky with the o-rings when removing. Ran that hard for 2yrs on my 350.

I just looked it up per MMR:
🤷🏻‍♂️
TORQUE OIL FILTER TO 120FT LBS- AS WITH ANY CRITICAL HARDWARE SUCH AS LUG NUTS, IT IS SUGGESTED THAT YOU CHECK YOUR OIL FILTER BEFORE ANY HPDE, ROAD RACE, AUTOCROSS OR DRAG RACE EVENT! APPLYING A PAINT MARK IS HELPFULL AND ALLOWS YOU TO VERIFY THAT THE FILTER HAS NOT LOOSENED. ALWAYS LUBRICATE O-RINGS AND THREADS WITH CLEAN ENGINE OIL.
 
1,246
1,243
In the V6L
Well, that disclaimer/advice notice basically says "we had trouble keeping it from falling off when we tested it". I'd stick with the plastic housing on a GT350, given the vibration situation. Of course, the obvious question is "Why bother?" The billet aluminum part solves a problem that nobody actually has.
 
51
48
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
3-5 Years
Phoenix
Well, that disclaimer/advice notice basically says "we had trouble keeping it from falling off when we tested it". I'd stick with the plastic housing on a GT350, given the vibration situation. Of course, the obvious question is "Why bother?" The billet aluminum part solves a problem that nobody actually has.
You all will be the first to know I guarantee, if it fails and my engine blows up😐
 

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