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GT350 Lowering Springs And Sway Bars from Ford Performance

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Thanks Rob!

Update:

I was told the bars are stiffer than the GT350 and GT350R but not by a huge amount. They are currently unavailable with no ETA so to me that means 60-120 days.

The larger throttle body is not dead but a low priority for Ford Performance. Don't hold your breath but it could still happen. :cool:

Other than the above items there is not much else in the works for the GT350.
 
They are stiffer, but not too stiff, and an R owner who installed them stated they weren't much stiffer than the R springs. Being lower and stiffer I'm expecting good results on track. They won't drop your lap times but should make the car feel more predictable on track with a lower CG and a bit less body roll. My first track day with them is next Friday at Sonoma with HOD.
 
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I'm back from my track day at Sonoma and I really like the springs on track and fully recommend them for a street/track car. Lowering the CG is usually a good thing and there's no exception to that here. For Sonoma I was hoping my car would feel more planted and stable through the esses and we have a winner. The car moves around a bit less and stays flatter. I felt more confident in transition areas and I was able to carry more speed through the carousel.

The car is possibly even more balanced than it was before so they certainly didn't detract from the handling with only minimal ride impairment. I want to stress how balanced and neutral handling my car is with the square setup. Even in turn 11 at Sonoma, which is a slow second gear corner, the car is very neutral and hooks up well on corner exit. My initial impression was you could notice the ride was stiffer than stock but they now feel "normal" meaning I'm familiar with them.

I thought that if I didn't like the springs or I was scraping too much I would either reinstall the stock springs or install R springs and remove the W springs. The springs are staying. I've been scraping more, usually I'm not being careful, with my track tires on. I know some R owners run the non R tires on the street with the 35 profile and you'll be fine with that setup. If you have an R and are running 30 series tires on the street all the time you'll need to be careful.

Anyone with an R install the springs yet and been on track? If so any feedback?

My track setup:
Maximum Motorsports CC plates
Ford Performance lowering springs
APEX 19x11 EC-7 wheels square
25mm front spacers so I can rotate
ARP wheel studs
Michelin SC2's in 305/30/19 square, really like these tires especially when they are new
R spec alignment with -1.8 camber up front
R copy aero in CF
Resonator delete
 
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Great info....thanks! I am planning to do springs and bars this offseason. Based on how things feel thus far, what more do you think the bars can/will do for this car?
 
Hi Guys -

Fist post on this forum but I have been reading it for a while. I have a 2017 GT350 and I just got the FP lowering springs. I am going to try and tackle them in the next couple of weeks but I had a question about the ride height sensors. Do i need to do anything with them prior to removing the springs or after installing the FP springs? Or Do i just remove the stock springs as normal and install the new FP?

Also, do you guys recommend installing CC plates? This car is not a DD and will see the track at least 2-4 times a year.

Thanks for any info you can give me!
 
The lowering springs are plug and play and you do not need to adjust the sensors. Adding camber plates are a good idea and Vorshlag and Maximum Motorsports are very popular here on TMO.

Curious about the difference in the bearing in these. I think the vorshlag use an actual bearing but what about the others?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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In the V6L
... I had a question about the ride height sensors. Do i need to do anything with them prior to removing the springs or after installing the FP springs? ...

The Magride controller needs to know when the car is sitting at static ride height - it calculates shock settings based on movement of the suspension. So, when you lower the static ride height, you have to recalibrate. I'm not aware of any tool other than the dealer's IDS/VCM2 that can actually do it.
 

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