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GT350 Torque settings

Black Boss

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*** UPDATED with more extensive list in PDF below ***

Best efforts from different sources, so no guarantee that they are all accurate

For the Boss I put together a cheat sheet of key modification/maintenance item torque values, using the Ford Racing 302S data sheet as a start point. I'm starting from scratch with the GT350, but here are the items I have researched so far. Best efforts from different sources, so no guarantee that they are all accurate. Also several of these are specific to the GT350 and will not apply to the other S550 models:

--------------------------------N-m---------ft-lbs--------Socket/Wrench
Oil Filter..................................23..............17..............74.2mm 14 flute
Under-tray / Filter access...................................................7mm
Transmission Drain/Fill........28...............21.....................3/8" sq
Differential Fill Plug...............34..............25.....................3/8" sq
Front Caliper Bolts................185.............136......................T60
Front Caliper Bleeder..............19..............14......................11mm
Rear Caliper Bolts..................110..............81......................15mm
Rear Caliper Bolts (17MY).....115..............85......................18mm
Rear Caliper Bleeder................14.............10.......................11mm
Caliper Banjo Bolt (F & R)......40.............30......................13mm
.
Rear Camber Bolt...................115.............85......................18mm
Rear Toe Bolt..........................175............129
Rear Wheel Hub.....................133.............98
Rr Spindle (torque plus 45*)..133.............98.....................32mm
Vertical link upper..................103............76
Vertical Link lower..................175...........129
.
Front Seat Bolts.......................47..............35.......................T50
Watson Hoop with M8 10.9... 34..............25
Watson Roll Bar Rear Legs.....68.............50......................13mm
.
Strut to Steering Knuckle......250...........184...................21/24mm
Sway Bar Link to Strut...........115.............85....................17/18mm
Strut Shaft Nut.......................103.............76....................21/10mm
MM Strut tower nuts...............63.............46......................15mm
Strut Tower Cross Brace..........55.............41......................15mm
Tie Rod Jam nut.....................103.............76...................24/15mm
.
Spark Plug.................................15.............11.......................5/8"
Coil on Plug (torque plus 45*)... 7..............5
.
Splash Shield Retainers - M6.....8.............6
Front Splitter - M4.2.................1.9...........1.5
Front Splitter -M6......................8.............6
.
If others have key modification/maintenance data points, please post up, and I'll try to keep the list current.

@VoodooBOSS
@cloud9
@fuhrius
@StigsBaldBrother
@Moto
@jas427
@ChopSui
@mattlqx
@8250RPM

Updated to add socket/wrench sizes. Dual values are where a holding wrench/socket is needed.
 

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cloud9

Gary
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Re: Torque settings

Big help, thank you. Did you torque the hex head cap bolts that secure the down bars to the main hoop on the Watson bar or just get them gutentight?
 

krt22

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Re: Torque settings

I now see why those caliper bolts are one time use =)
 

cloud9

Gary
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Re: Torque settings

Black Boss said:
Gutentight ;D
:D Are you backing off 10-15% for the caliper bolts with the anti-seize? What kind of duty cycle do you think is reasonable before replacing? On the Boss and GT500 I typically reused for one rotor swap. Since we'll be pulling them for (thin :() pads changes will be more frequent than just rotors.
 

Black Boss

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Re: Torque settings


I backed off about 15% for the first cycle. Will probably back off 20% for the next cycle, and then 25-30% for subsequent cycles. Not sure, but I think the reason that replacement bolts are recommended is mainly for the loctite, but also with dry insertion the bolt roughness ensures predictable torque. With use the bolt threads get smoother, so less torque is needed for the same clamping force -- less of an issue with Anti-Seize.

I don't believe the issue is strength -- The Aluminum is way weaker than the bolt....

Just my opinion :-\
 

cloud9

Gary
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Re: Torque settings

Black Boss said:
I backed off about 15% for the first cycle. Will probably back off 20% for the next cycle, and then 25-30% for subsequent cycles. Not sure, but I think the reason that replacement bolts are recommended is mainly for the loctite, but also with dry insertion the bolt roughness ensures predictable torque. With use the bolt threads get smoother, so less torque is needed for the same clamping force -- less of an issue with Anti-Seize.

I don't believe the issue is strength -- The Aluminum is way weaker than the bolt....

Just my opinion :-\
Good point on the aluminum. I agree it's likely the Loctite and most street driven cars not being paint marked and checked or retorqued on a regular basis.
 

Black Boss

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Re: Torque settings


I will edit the first post to show socket sizes, later this week.

I used Anti Seize on the Caliper bolts, based on several of us experiencing thread failure on the Boss calipers, which we attributed to the loctite. I would not recommend this on a street car and unless the bolts are paint marked and frequently torque checked, as the torque must be reduced when using any lubricant. Most references I've seen recommend 15-30%. On a track car we will be removing the calipers frequently for pad changes....
 

mattlqx

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I just put my cats back on. I don't have torque settings for it but the Catalytic Converter to Exhaust Header nut is M10x1.5 which is a 15mm head. Do *not* reuse them. They basically shred themselves taking them off and when you try to put them back on they'll strip the press-in stud on the cat. Thankfully, the one I did this to was on the side of the cat that has more clearance and I was able to pound it out and just put a standard bolt through it.
 

byronj

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mattlqx said:
I just put my cats back on. I don't have torque settings for it but the Catalytic Converter to Exhaust Header nut is M10x1.5 which is a 15mm head. Do *not* reuse them. They basically shred themselves taking them off and when you try to put them back on they'll strip the press-in stud on the cat. Thankfully, the one I did this to was on the side of the cat that has more clearance and I was able to pound it out and just put a standard bolt through it.
Just out of curiosity, do you have pics and what type of metal are they made of? I was an airframes mechanic for many years and I find it odd that a cat bolt would strip out.
Id rather learn this before my GT 350 arrives,

Thanks
 

shendrix99

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Hello All - I'm installing Christmas present GT350R calipers on my 2017 GT350 and there has been a change to the rear caliper bolt: thread pitch/length/flange are the same as the 15/16 GT350/R rear caliper bolts but the head of the bolt has been changed from 15mm to 18mm with torque now 85 lb.ft (115 Nm)(from 2017 Service Manual). Haven't been able to find the new part number yet. Since I had new 15 mm bolts on hand, I used these with no issue.

Steve
 

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