I installed the GT500 Pedal assembly yesterday. It was pretty simple and straight forward. I used the Ford Workshop Manual directions as a guide.
http://iihs.net/fsm/?dir=780&viewfile=Brake%20Pedal%20and%20Bracket.pdf
1. I started by having a nice ice cold miller lite to loosen me up for the tight quarters I would be working in. This step is optional
2. I rolled my windows all the way down before I disconnected the battery. I do this because the window will not "dip" when you open the door or close it making it hard to get the door open and closed. I then disconnected the battery using an 8MM socket and ratchet.
3. I then removed the seat. You will need a 15MM deep socket for the rear nuts and a 13MM socket for the front. To access the rear nuts you have to remove the plastic trim pieces first by pulling straight back on them. After all the bolts and nuts are removed slid the seat forward and the seat back fully forward as well to ease removal. Also dont forget to unplug the two harness underneath the seat.
4. I then prepped the area under the hood to catch the brake fluid that will come out when you disconnect the lines. Use a pick or small flat head screw driver to pull the retaining clip back so you can remove the line from the master cylinder to the transmission. Be careful it will be easy to lose. Once out pull the line out and then push the clip back in. For the line from the reservoir to the master cylinder use needle nose pliers and pull the clamp back about an inch then pull the hose off the reservoir side. Refer to the shop manual link for a detailed picture of these pieces. I cut a water bottle in half and placed it to catch any drips that would come out of the reservoir.
5. Now moving to under the dash to the meat of the removal. First there are three switches that you must remove from the assembly one on the brake pedal and two on the clutch. these are an easy quarter turn to remove.
removed
6. Next remove the Brake booster push rod clevis locking pin. Follow the shop manual to remove this. I used an 11MM wrench to slip over the two tabs then a flat blade screw driver to pry it out. Manual says this is a one time use item....I reused it didnt see anything wrong with it. Cant really get a camera up in there to take a pic so I took one of it out.
7. There are a total of 4 nuts and 2 bolts to remove to get the pedal assembly out. All of them are 13MM you will need a deep socket for the nuts. Refer to the shop manual for location. Once they are out you will have to maneuver it a little to get it out.
Now that it is out I did a side by side and the only difference that I could note between the two were the addition of the assist spring and a lighter return spring for the brake pedal. I went as far as taking the assist spring off and push both the clutch pedals with my hand and its the same amount of tension. Looked to me that they just added a pin to the pedal and put that spring in place. So to save yourself time and money just remove the spring and you have a GT500 pedal assembly........yeah now you know.
Boss brake pedal return spring
GT500 brake pedal return spring
But I went ahead and install it anyway.
Install is reverse of removal. One thing that would have been helpful was having someone hold the brake booster in place as it is now loose from removing the four nuts. After it is installed and the seats are back in place bleed the system and you are done.
For me I first put it under vacuum for about 20 mins till it no longer lost pressure. Then pumped the pedal about 200 times. topped off the fluid. I use duct tape and one of my wifes hair tie things to get a good seal and poke a hole in the tape. This gets me a great seal. I then performed idle relearn and took it for a test drive.
On the test drive the pedal is much firmer and smoother without having that dreaded transition point that makes engaging the clutch smoothly difficult with a twin disc clutch.
In the end just remove the assist spring there is no need to buy the entire assembly as all the parts and pieces are the same. I checked all the part numbers on them and they all matched.
http://iihs.net/fsm/?dir=780&viewfile=Brake%20Pedal%20and%20Bracket.pdf
1. I started by having a nice ice cold miller lite to loosen me up for the tight quarters I would be working in. This step is optional
2. I rolled my windows all the way down before I disconnected the battery. I do this because the window will not "dip" when you open the door or close it making it hard to get the door open and closed. I then disconnected the battery using an 8MM socket and ratchet.
3. I then removed the seat. You will need a 15MM deep socket for the rear nuts and a 13MM socket for the front. To access the rear nuts you have to remove the plastic trim pieces first by pulling straight back on them. After all the bolts and nuts are removed slid the seat forward and the seat back fully forward as well to ease removal. Also dont forget to unplug the two harness underneath the seat.
4. I then prepped the area under the hood to catch the brake fluid that will come out when you disconnect the lines. Use a pick or small flat head screw driver to pull the retaining clip back so you can remove the line from the master cylinder to the transmission. Be careful it will be easy to lose. Once out pull the line out and then push the clip back in. For the line from the reservoir to the master cylinder use needle nose pliers and pull the clamp back about an inch then pull the hose off the reservoir side. Refer to the shop manual link for a detailed picture of these pieces. I cut a water bottle in half and placed it to catch any drips that would come out of the reservoir.
5. Now moving to under the dash to the meat of the removal. First there are three switches that you must remove from the assembly one on the brake pedal and two on the clutch. these are an easy quarter turn to remove.
removed
6. Next remove the Brake booster push rod clevis locking pin. Follow the shop manual to remove this. I used an 11MM wrench to slip over the two tabs then a flat blade screw driver to pry it out. Manual says this is a one time use item....I reused it didnt see anything wrong with it. Cant really get a camera up in there to take a pic so I took one of it out.
7. There are a total of 4 nuts and 2 bolts to remove to get the pedal assembly out. All of them are 13MM you will need a deep socket for the nuts. Refer to the shop manual for location. Once they are out you will have to maneuver it a little to get it out.
Now that it is out I did a side by side and the only difference that I could note between the two were the addition of the assist spring and a lighter return spring for the brake pedal. I went as far as taking the assist spring off and push both the clutch pedals with my hand and its the same amount of tension. Looked to me that they just added a pin to the pedal and put that spring in place. So to save yourself time and money just remove the spring and you have a GT500 pedal assembly........yeah now you know.
Boss brake pedal return spring
GT500 brake pedal return spring
But I went ahead and install it anyway.
Install is reverse of removal. One thing that would have been helpful was having someone hold the brake booster in place as it is now loose from removing the four nuts. After it is installed and the seats are back in place bleed the system and you are done.
For me I first put it under vacuum for about 20 mins till it no longer lost pressure. Then pumped the pedal about 200 times. topped off the fluid. I use duct tape and one of my wifes hair tie things to get a good seal and poke a hole in the tape. This gets me a great seal. I then performed idle relearn and took it for a test drive.
On the test drive the pedal is much firmer and smoother without having that dreaded transition point that makes engaging the clutch smoothly difficult with a twin disc clutch.
In the end just remove the assist spring there is no need to buy the entire assembly as all the parts and pieces are the same. I checked all the part numbers on them and they all matched.
