The Mustang Forum for Track & Racing Enthusiasts

Taking your Mustang to an open track/HPDE event for the first time? Do you race competitively? This forum is for you! Log in to remove most ads.

  • Welcome to the Ford Mustang forum built for owners of the Mustang GT350, BOSS 302, GT500, and all other S550, S197, SN95, Fox Body and older Mustangs set up for open track days, road racing, and/or autocross. Join our forum, interact with others, share your build, and help us strengthen this community!

Has anyone done the Magnum XL swap and regretted it?

holy crap that's amazing if no duties. Did you get an HTS code and check the duty rate? Please do let us know how it goes.
The purchase was straight forward, their website asked where I was located and calculated the pricing in US Dollars. The charge on my CC was listed as a California phone number. Here's the shipping progress:
01/13/2023
11:49 P.M.
On the Way
Arrived at Facility
Changi, Singapore
01/13/2023
7:08 P.M.
Departed from Facility
Botany, Australia
01/13/2023
1:58 P.M.
Export Scan
Botany, Australia
01/12/2023
8:50 P.M.
Departed from Facility
Brisbane, Australia
01/12/2023
4:50 P.M.
Export Scan
Brisbane, Australia
01/12/2023
4:50 P.M.
Origin Scan
Brisbane, Australia
01/11/2023
3:43 P.M.
Label Created
Shipper created a label, UPS has not received the package yet.
Australia
Maybe they have a distributor in the states that handles all the global shipping matters.
 
718
649
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
Lenoir City TN
When comparing prices for the Mantic clutch, I was shocked to see that I could purchase it directly from the manufacturer in Australia for $1,230 while the distributors here in the US were asking $2,250 and up. And it ships from "down under" in 10 days. While it might be logistically challenging if it needs to be returned, I'm willing to roll the dice. I'll you know how it goes...
Looked at the link again. That was a great price on the organic twin disk. I would have rolled the dice on that one as well. It is interesting that it is so much cheaper than the other models. The cerametallic twin is about the same price as from the US distributor.
 
Looked at the link again. That was a great price on the organic twin disk. I would have rolled the dice on that one as well. It is interesting that it is so much cheaper than the other models. The cerametallic twin is about the same price as from the US distributor.
Hey Eric,

You're correct, I did not notice that I was comparing organic to ceramic. I'll let you now what it looks like when it gets here.... Oh, and I ordered an indexing plate from Summit Racing to make sure the bellhousing is straight and "square".
 
718
649
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
Lenoir City TN
Hey Eric,

You're correct, I did not notice that I was comparing organic to ceramic. I'll let you now what it looks like when it gets here.... Oh, and I ordered an indexing plate from Summit Racing to make sure the bellhousing is straight and "square".
I ordered my index plate from Summitt. It was in stock at a good price with free shipping. Make sure you have the correct clutch alignment tool. Mine was sent with a 26 spline tool for a Chevy LS motor. It went together fine but the trans wouldn't slide in the last 3/8". Also make sure your dial indicator is mounted firmly. If it wiggles at all you will get bad readings. I had to remove a bolt to get a good seat.

Good luck with the install.
 
The Mantic clutch I ordered arrived a while back, here's a picture. It was packaged well, almost felt like Christmas, with all that billet. Hopefully I'll do this correctly! Since the T56 Magnum upgrade the clutch action has always "shuttered" and was hard to manipulate. I'm hoping if I align the bellhousing this will go away. It was especially noticeable in reverse, where the driveline would chatter so hard it was frightening.

Anyway, jacked up the car last night, pulled the driveshaft (no fun with a torque arm) and got the transmission unbolted from the bellhousing. I'm going to leave the cats and downpipes on this time, the last time I removed them and sheared a few exhaust bolts and had to replace the exhaust manifolds.

One item of note, their appears to be a small oil leak at the bell housing. When bolting the flywheel to the crank should I use a sealant? I looks like the crankshaft is actually hollow and the flywheel bolts into a pressurized oil chamber. Last time I used the APR recommended liquid to ensure these bolts were torqued correctly, I'm wondering if I should use something else to "seal" the threads.

Thoughts?

DSCN1528.JPG
 
I installed a ford racing shortblock about 10k miles ago, so I'm hoping that rear main seal is not the issue. Once I pull the bellhousing/flywheel I guess I'll have a better look.

What does everyone use on their flywheel bolts? Different manuals call for different liquids

DSCN2643.JPG

DSCN2645.JPG
 
Last edited:

Fabman

Dances with racecars
5,906
7,104
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Pleasanton: 1/2 way between Sonoma and Laguna Seca
I installed a ford racing shortblock about 10k miles ago, so I'm hoping that rear main seal is not the issue. Once I pull the bellhousing/flywheel I guess I'll have a better look.

What does everyone use on their flywheel bolts? Different manuals call for different liquids

View attachment 85207

View attachment 85208
Blue locktight here....no leaks.
 

Fabman

Dances with racecars
5,906
7,104
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Pleasanton: 1/2 way between Sonoma and Laguna Seca
Hey Eric,

You're correct, I did not notice that I was comparing organic to ceramic. I'll let you now what it looks like when it gets here.... Oh, and I ordered an indexing plate from Summit Racing to make sure the bellhousing is straight and "square".
I'd like to see the indexing plate. Do you have a link?
 

Fabman

Dances with racecars
5,906
7,104
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Pleasanton: 1/2 way between Sonoma and Laguna Seca
Hey Fabman,

Sure, here's the one I bought.


I like Summit, they're quick, the items are usually correct and you can return items for any reason.
Summit is my go to for all things racecar.
I bet I'm not the only one here that would love to see a video tutorial on this....you could be famous.
 
979
1,573
Exp. Type
Time Attack
Exp. Level
3-5 Years
SoCal
I installed a ford racing shortblock about 10k miles ago, so I'm hoping that rear main seal is not the issue. Once I pull the bellhousing/flywheel I guess I'll have a better look.
What does everyone use on their flywheel bolts? Different manuals call for different liquids

View attachment 85207

View attachment 85208
What year is your car? It looks like this is a 4.6 mod motor, which the flywheel bolts require a sealant if I remember right. The Coyote crank won’t leak through those bolt holes.
 
The car is a 2008 Saleen Racecraft (long story, google is your friend), but the old block (and most everything else for that matter) is long gone. I bought "one of the last aluminator short blocks", or that's what the guy on Summit's tech line said. Bottom line is the engine is still 4.6 mod motor architecture, just a 5.0 and mostly forged or "stronger".

I'm thinking lots of loctite (Fabman) or some black silicone sealant from permatex. Anybody use anything else?
 
718
649
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
Lenoir City TN
The car is a 2008 Saleen Racecraft (long story, google is your friend), but the old block (and most everything else for that matter) is long gone. I bought "one of the last aluminator short blocks", or that's what the guy on Summit's tech line said. Bottom line is the engine is still 4.6 mod motor architecture, just a 5.0 and mostly forged or "stronger".

I'm thinking lots of loctite (Fabman) or some black silicone sealant from permatex. Anybody use anything els
Fabman has a coyote in his car, so it is not prone to the leakage past the flywheel bolts like the 4.6 was. Permatex makes a thread sealant for things just like this.

1680051226705.png
 
Hey Eric,

After rummaging through my toolbox, I found a bottle of that very stuff. It's even the same white tube with red letters! So far that seems like the best thing to use. Thanks for sharing!
 
I finally got around to removing the latest (wasted?) clutch from the mustang. Here a pic of it, this is an Exedy single disc, I think it was a stage 2 or 3, I don't recall. It seemed to do OK at first, but then started grabbing and chattering. It looks like I should have shimmed the slave cylinder, it was a little "over-extended" and there was a small amount of brake fluid that had leaked inside the bellhousing.DSCN1555.JPG
The good news is there does not seem to have been much oil that "seeped" past the flywheel bolts. Maybe just a little. Here's a pic of just the flywheel.DSCN1556.JPG
 
Now, the fun part. I wanted to check the alignment of the bellhousing. So I re-installed the bellhousing and bolted on the indexing plate (Summit Racing has 'em). That rod sticking out of the hole is a magnetic base for dial gauge.DSCN1558.JPG

I installed the gauge and spun the engine (by hand) until the gauge read the lowest number. I reset the ring so this was "0".
DSCN1564.JPG
Then I spun (OK "rotated") the engine (OK, the crankshaft) and marked off the measurements in roughly 45 degree increments. The goal is the locate the highest reading. It's 0.00975". Since we take this measurement and divide it in half, and I think the tolerance is 0.005", it seems my engine is bellhousing is barely within Tremec's "standard" spec. Some say this spec is less for engine reving over 7,000 rpm, but I have not seen this on Tremec's literature. So I dunno.

The offset dowels come in 0.007, 0.014, and 0.021. So even the smallest would actually only gain me 0.001 closer to spec.

So, now I'm wondering what to do.....

Any opinions?
 

Dave_W

Cones - not just for ice cream
731
916
Exp. Type
Autocross
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Connecticut
I think you may be off in your tolerance. If the smallest offset dowel is .007, then anything needing less than that is probably within tolerance.
 

TMO Supporting Vendors

Top