Has anyone tried the Vorshlag Air brakes instead of ducts

[Mad Hatter]

I was thinking about the Vorshlag air ducts mounted on the A-arms. Has anyone tried them out yet? Tired of wrecking the ducts but don´t know how much drag they will bring.

Vorshlag S197 Brake Cooling Deflector Kit

Vorshlag has offered "ducted hose" style brake cooling backing plates, inlet ducts, and tubing for a number of cars for many years - and we still do. This is how everyone cooled the brakes for track use for many decades. Well there are issues doing that, namely the corrugated hose has some...

vorshlag-store.com

 

[docs302]

I am very interested in feedback as well. I use 4" flexible hoses now and they get so squashed that I wonder how much air is actually making it to the rotor. This looks to be a very clean set up. I still wonder how air flow can be controlled and concentrated with such an open path.

 

[Ewheels]

I have them for my S550. Rotor temps are similar to the ducts I used to have.
Vorshlag did testing on these and found they were consistently cooler than running ducts.

I'm sure some fender venting could improve cooling with the deflectors further and reduce some drag.

 

[boardkat]

yep, this is exactly why i went with a custom designed vented fender.
as an aside, a lot of that air was apparently making it under the hood past the vents and creating pressure resulting in buffeting at speeds above 140, too. not any more!


i'll be testing a deflector setup when i get a chance to redesign my rear aero in the offseason, then install the splitter tunnels i've had sitting around for awhile. i cooked XP20 pads and 2pc ap racing rotors in only (3) weekends/2 hours, so i need to figure things out. obviously a 2.5" duct wasn't enough to stop 3850lbs down from 170+ without some serious heat!




working on designing an upper grille inlet, backing plate and plumbing in a 2nd duct before OUSCI @ COTA in november as a stop gap, but i'll be sure to test all variations next season with rotor paint and caliper temp strips.



... but i'm *really* hoping the deflector setup works and eliminates this complexity/mess i'm making for myself!!

 

[captdistraction]

I'm curious as well, as the S197 arm design is completely different than S550.

The S550 was carefully designed to bring airflow onto those panels to divert them onto the inside of the rotor hat. in the S197, there's no such system; vorshlag is selling just one part of that system.

I'd love to see if anyone's used them and what they had to do to make them work, or better even instrumented testing, but I'd bet its very unlikely for a low volume part like this.

 

[Bill Pemberton]

Maybe Vorshlag will chime in again, as interested in the effects on a long session ( racing ) of 30-40 minutes and whether they have a combination set-up or just the deflectors. We did a custom deflector system for Gen II Vipers ( 1996 -2002 ) as the laminar airflow around the fort of the car was horrible at getting air to the brakes. For the recreational track guy they worked fine, but for the serious Time Trialer or racer they would not get enough air to the rotors. Would be interested to hear again from Vorshlag because I am crushing the brake ducting tubes like everyone else!

 

[xr7]

My thought was you need a splitter with the tunnels(?) added in that would direct the air towards the deflectors. I think the newer S550 splitter has something like this. One other option that someone on this site did was use current bumper ducting but not have it ducted to the backing plate, I assume he does not have backing plates on it and he use PCV elbow to direct the air at the brakes. I suppose you could do as Vorshlag did and run ducted cooling on one side an the deflector on the other side with some temp tape or paint and see what you get.

Cheap Splitter Tunnels?

Hey all, I don't have the PP belly pan, so no tunnels for the brakes. Looking to add Vorshlag brake deflectors and was thinking if I could rivet a tunnel into my belly pan on each side lined up with the delfectors I could avoid running ducting from the bumper into the wheel wells. I'm looking to...

trackmustangsonline.com

 

[PaddyPrix]

Ignore this post, I went all salesman for the s550.
*
In short, yeah, MUST have the Performance Pack 2 under tray.

The standard under tray is pretty much flat, not the PP2 one (PN JR3Z-17626-B) which most stock pictures don't illustrate the big win that it has.

Air thrown right at the front lower control arm, for the Vorshlag plate to divert air inward into it. Worked for me on my 2019GT, and will work on the much lighter 2018 with fender side exit vents too.

 

[o-man]

Paddy. It’s both PP1 and PP2 they work with. I think they are working. Here’s a picture of my backing plates. You can still see blue paint.

 

[PaddyPrix]

Paddy. It’s both PP1 and PP2 they work with. I think they are working. Here’s a picture of my backing plates. You can still see blue paint.
View attachment 58477

Thank you for the clarification, I thought the PP1 didn't get those air tunnels. I'm a little Base GT in the big kids world that, and the parts catalog really blur those lines, and are occasionally wrong or mislabeled... For instance, it'll often only ask your engine and transmission, which make the Shelby and GT separation easy, but that's about it.

 

[StromSpeed]

I have those Vors on my GT PP2. No issue with clearance. Noticed the dust factor increased some after install so getting positive pressure back their now; there were already small plastic veins as part of the stock package but didn’t want any cooling tissues as I like to brake real late. Zero brake fade with the PP2 stock Brembos at this time.

 

[honeybadger]

So I admit this begrudgingly, but I am impressed with their performance. I say begrudgingly because I was strongly in the skeptic camp. I still think an appropriate hose and backing plate setup like on the GT4 is likely to better, but not sure your average person can make that work due to no access to a CF brake duct plate, etc.

Anyways, I made my own versions and tested them at COTA in March. I wasn’t specifically testing brakes that day, so I don’t have solid enough data to claim one or the other explicitly. However, I can say that I no longer experienced fade going into Turn 15 or 20 and I had my highest sustained braking Gs of 1.55 lap after lap.

For those interested, I am running Raybestos ST43s up front. While they handle heat very well, they’re definitely a mid-range operating temp pad. COTA has a couple sequences that frequently pushed them out of that range when pushing hard lap after lap and not looking after brake temps. Typically lost .2g capacity when they got outside that temp.

I need more data, but so far I am impressed. Much appreciation to Terry for sharing the original data.

 

[bob]

Being too lazy to test I just went with Vorschalg concept. It was faster for me to bend my own aluminum diverters out of sheet and screw them on the arm. Then I took the backing plate off the knuckle. This allows the PP1 tunnel spltter to direct air to the brakes. I'm also 3.75" ride height vs 6.5" stock so that drives more air velocity under the car. It seems to work just fine this way and then I'm not tearing up ducts like I have on every other racecar I have owned. I am race only with 45min max sprint races 50mm restricted motor and no aero 3600lbs min weight for my class. So I can't generate the speeds of the modified S550s but I do have the heft!.

 

[Coz]

I'm curious how much airflow goes into the hub of the rotor compared to flow against inboard side of the rotor.

Would this cause disimilar cooling on the sides of the rotor and lead to warping and cracking? Or does enough go to the hub that the cooling through the center vanes of the rotor is sufficient to prevent that from happening?

I ask since I currently have the Vorshlag S197 backing plates with the 3" oval ducts. One of the advertised benefits of the oval duct was that it ensured more air goes to the hub instead of the face of the rotor.
@Fair

 

[carver]

So on my Boss I did a fog light delete. DIY open ducting ( cut out the plastic inner fender near the bottom for open air flow ) and front brake air deflectors for cooling. Dot 4 brake flush. All backing plates removed. You can see a couple of pics on my car profile.
The whole thing works great no fade or overheating so far. I'm convinced that there is way more air flowing than you can put thru a hose.

 

[JeffV8]

yep, this is exactly why i went with a custom designed vented fender.
as an aside, a lot of that air was apparently making it under the hood past the vents and creating pressure resulting in buffeting at speeds above 140, too. not any more!
View attachment 58433

i'll be testing a deflector setup when i get a chance to redesign my rear aero in the offseason, then install the splitter tunnels i've had sitting around for awhile. i cooked XP20 pads and 2pc ap racing rotors in only (3) weekends/2 hours, so i need to figure things out. obviously a 2.5" duct wasn't enough to stop 3850lbs down from 170+ without some serious heat!
View attachment 58434
View attachment 58435
View attachment 58436

working on designing an upper grille inlet, backing plate and plumbing in a 2nd duct before OUSCI @ COTA in november as a stop gap, but i'll be sure to test all variations next season with rotor paint and caliper temp strips.
View attachment 58437
View attachment 58438

... but i'm *really* hoping the deflector setup works and eliminates this complexity/mess i'm making for myself!!

Who made your fender vent? I put on the Vorshlag deflector but haven’t really put it to the test. I also made a duct system to blow more air on it. Removed the driving lights.

 

[Coz]

Neat idea. But if that's two 90* elbows and a 45* elbow, that will drastically decrease the airflow. However, I guess anything in addition to the flow from the PP ducts is a bonus and won't hurt.

 

[JDee]

I did the same with the uncrushed remnants of my 3" ducts, cut them off right where they came through the inner fender and aimed them directly at the Vorshlag deflector. There are no PVC pipes involved. So far all is fine, but I have yet to run my car with this setup on a hard on brakes track. They have been fine at Mosport but that's not a hard on brakes track. I hope to give them a workout on a hard braking track in a couple of weeks. That is if the damn COVID round 2 blow up we're currently getting doesn't get worse. They're already starting to go back into some lockdown stuff, so there's no idea if the few remaining track days are going to happen or not.

 

[JeffV8]

I did the same with the uncrushed remnants of my 3" ducts, cut them off right where they came through the inner fender and aimed them directly at the Vorshlag deflector. There are no PVC pipes involved. So far all is fine, but I have yet to run my car with this setup on a hard on brakes track. They have been fine at Mosport but that's not a hard on brakes track. I hope to give them a workout on a hard braking track in a couple of weeks. That is if the damn COVID round 2 blow up we're currently getting doesn't get worse. They're already starting to go back into some lockdown stuff, so there's no idea if the few remaining track days are going to happen or not.

JDee lf I had the brake ducts to start with I would have done the same. Like you I haven’t put the system to a good brake test.

 

[PatientZero]

I made a set of these cooling ducts this weekend. Really not too difficult if you're just wanting to try them out.