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Help me spend my money - Street/Autocross/track day compromise build

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65
104
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
Nova Scotia
So, I'm trying to apportion the budget for my newly acquired 07 GT. It's completely original and stock suspension wise. It looks like nothing other than 1 control arm replacement has ever been done to it. I'm looking for input on the right mix of wheel/tire/suspension spending to get myself to an enjoyable enthusiast car. I will be tracking the car 3-4 times a year , running some autocross, and driving it most nice days in the summer. I have a budget of no more than $5000 Canadian (3800 US) to spend on mods for this year, and $500 of that will go to a Schroth ASM harness.
Some relevant points as I decide what to do
- I don't need to lower the car unless it's a benefit to handling. I know it will help, but where I live, we have rough roads, and I don't want to lose a lot of comfort for the regular driving days. If I lower it, I'll want to correct the ball joints for proper roll center.
- Given the car is pretty much original, I'm expecting most rubber bushings and the shocks/struts will not survive track day use. So they all need replacement.
- Our track is super hard on front brakes and front left tires.1.6 miles/11 turns at around a 1:17 time for an average Mustang driver. I have a set of OEM calipers from a 2015 GT, and expect to swap them over with the correct brackets/rotors and track day pads. But I will need extra camber up front.
- I have access to a set of OEM 19x9 and 19x9.5 wheels for about $500. Is it worth delaying getting an optimal tire/wheel setup for another year and running whatever I can fit on this inexpensive set of wheels while I learn the car?
- It's not a race car, so should I bother with adjustable struts/shocks? Our track is rough - think tarmac rally vice Laguna Seca. Always wanted a set of Koni Yellows, but the budget is the budget. I do have access to a shop with a shock dyno and rebuild abilities for rebuildable/revalving something down the road.

My goal for this year is to get to the track and improve my skills vice just faster lap times. To date, I'm pretty inconsistent on track, and want to overcome that this season. So the car needs to be a stable, predictable and sustainable platform (or at least as much as possible) vice being the fastest it can be so I can focus on driving.

I've been through a lot of the threads on here but honestly, everything starts to jumble together in my head after a while, so if you've got the time, feel free to drop your suggestions as far as parts/kits etc go. Thanks for reading!
 
1,119
1,110
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
Lenoir City TN
I wouldn't start by throwing money at the car. A stock GT is more capable than most new track drivers. Just make sure the car is safe above all else. Then make sure you have fresh brake fluid and enough pad for your first event. Street tires and pads are okay to get started. Get some seat time. When you find handling aspects that you do not like or you start to exceed the capabilities of the car look at upgrading.
 
65
104
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
Nova Scotia
I wouldn't start by throwing money at the car. A stock GT is more capable than most new track drivers. Just make sure the car is safe above all else. Then make sure you have fresh brake fluid and enough pad for your first event. Street tires and pads are okay to get started. Get some seat time. When you find handling aspects that you do not like or you start to exceed the capabilities of the car look at upgrading.
I’m not new to the track. Been playing at race cars for a few years, running a tube frame Pro Challenge 3/4 scale stock car currently. And with the struts being 14 years old, and an already leaking rear shock, I’d expect they won’t survive much more use. So they are going to be replaced this year regardless. And the current tires are old enough that they could have graduated middle school, so they won’t be going anywhere near a track.
 
65
104
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
Nova Scotia
Just some words of caution.....A track car can NEVER get enough attention or money thrown its way............................Track cars have been known to laugh at budgets......beware!!!
Oh yes. “How fast do you want to spend?” Is always the first question.
 
1,119
1,110
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
Lenoir City TN
I’m not new to the track. Been playing at race cars for a few years, running a tube frame Pro Challenge 3/4 scale stock car currently. And with the struts being 14 years old, and an already leaking rear shock, I’d expect they won’t survive much more use. So they are going to be replaced this year regardless. And the current tires are old enough that they could have graduated middle school, so they won’t be going anywhere near a track.
If struts and tires are already in need of replacement that is part of making it safe. I would replace springs and shocks/struts at the same time since it is the same labor cost. The Ford racing kits are popular with drivers on this site. I went a different route with my 2011. I started with Steeda Sport springs, Koni Oranges, and Steeda camber plates. Bought everything as a package when they were having a sale. It reduced body roll and brake dive for not a lot of money and is not too harsh for daily driving.

The wider the better when it comes to rubber. You can't really go wider than a 285 without running spacers and extended studs. I would stick to a square set up to allow tire rotation. Most people seem to prefer 18" wheels on the S197 due to tire availability/cost. My car came with 19 x 9" wheels and I have stuck with them. I ran 275/40/19 Bridgestone S04 Pole Positions on the stock wheels until I started rolling the side walls. Currently running 285/35/19 on 10" wide Apex EC-7's.
 

Dave_W

Cones - not just for ice cream
984
1,277
Exp. Type
Autocross
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Connecticut
Welcome to TMO. It sounds like you've got a good general plan. I think the points you list are valid. I'd recommend getting camber plates as one of the first upgrades, as running around 2 degrees negative camber in front will greatly improve tire life, as well as grip. Vorshlag are highly regarded, but other choices are Ground Control, Steeda, and Maximum Motorsports. Steeda and GC have "street" and "race" versions, generally differing in bushing material/type. From what you say, you may want the street versions to reduce NVH on the rough roads.

For wheels, it's pretty hard to beat $500 for a full set in those sizes. If you like the Mustang, you'll probably end up getting 18x11 wheels from forum sponsor Apex Wheels, but running 19x9/9.5 is fine while you get to know the car. Going to 11" wide wheels with the same offset all around requires 25mm spacers up front, which means extended studs. Although, if you're going to replace the front hubs anyway, you might as well get the Ford Perf. hubs which already have the long ARP studs (if they ever come off universal backorder). You probably want to run 275 or 285 width tires on the 9/9.5 wheels, and if you use the same size front and rear you can rotate partway through the season by remounting. Make sure to pick a tire that will provide consistent grip for a full track session without getting greasy. Grassroots Motorsports had an article recently that included a chart of common autox and track tires rated by factors like heat tolerance, cold grip, wear, etc.

As mentioned above, the Ford Racing/Performance kit (M-FR3A-MGTA) is very popular here - it's got springs, adjustable panhard, struts/shocks, and sway bars, but not camber plates. There used to be versions with fixed and adjustable dampers but it looks like the adjustable kit is n longer available. Another option is the package Billy Johnson and Steeda put together, but that also does not have camber plates. For your case, I might suggest the Vorshlag Bilstein kit with FRPP "P" springs, which includes their camber plates but no sway bars. If you're really trying to save every penny, just use Bilsteins on the stock springs for now. Bilsteins are a high-quality monotube that uses an inverted strut design. I haven't used them on a Mustang, but have been very happy with them on other cars. Koni Sports (aka Yellows) are another standard pick for near-stock-plus performance; unlike the Bilsteins they are twin tube but have adjustable rebound. I think both will give you decent ride quality on rough roads (with Konis on soft) and good control on track (Konis turned up). Note on the Konis - never drive them "full" hard or soft - always back off 1/4 turn from the stop; the adjuster shaft can lock up if left against the stop. As you mentioned, if you lower the car more than about 1" you'll need taller ball joints to fix the roll center change.

If you have the large hydrolastic bushing at the rear of the front lower control arm, consider changing that to polyurethane (e.g., Energy Suspension 4.3165 [R=red, G=black]) while you're doing the rest of the bushings, though it's a messy job removing the factory bushing. The early electric rack cars can develop an issue with the anti-nibble programming when going to poly front bushings, but I believe you have a hydraulic rack. The urethane bushing will increase NVH, but stabilizes toe change under braking. Maybe not as important with a lower-grip tire, but may help confidence.

PS - I like the Dodge Omni GLH you posted in the introductions thread. My first car was a Plymouth Horizon that I bought a year before the GLH came out - if only I had waited another year... 🤦‍♂️
 
65
104
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
Nova Scotia
Welcome to TMO. It sounds like you've got a good general plan. I think the points you list are valid. I'd recommend getting camber plates as one of the first upgrades, as running around 2 degrees negative camber in front will greatly improve tire life, as well as grip. Vorshlag are highly regarded, but other choices are Ground Control, Steeda, and Maximum Motorsports. Steeda and GC have "street" and "race" versions, generally differing in bushing material/type. From what you say, you may want the street versions to reduce NVH on the rough roads.

For wheels, it's pretty hard to beat $500 for a full set in those sizes. If you like the Mustang, you'll probably end up getting 18x11 wheels from forum sponsor Apex Wheels, but running 19x9/9.5 is fine while you get to know the car. Going to 11" wide wheels with the same offset all around requires 25mm spacers up front, which means extended studs. Although, if you're going to replace the front hubs anyway, you might as well get the Ford Perf. hubs which already have the long ARP studs (if they ever come off universal backorder). You probably want to run 275 or 285 width tires on the 9/9.5 wheels, and if you use the same size front and rear you can rotate partway through the season by remounting. Make sure to pick a tire that will provide consistent grip for a full track session without getting greasy. Grassroots Motorsports had an article recently that included a chart of common autox and track tires rated by factors like heat tolerance, cold grip, wear, etc.

As mentioned above, the Ford Racing/Performance kit (M-FR3A-MGTA) is very popular here - it's got springs, adjustable panhard, struts/shocks, and sway bars, but not camber plates. There used to be versions with fixed and adjustable dampers but it looks like the adjustable kit is n longer available. Another option is the package Billy Johnson and Steeda put together, but that also does not have camber plates. For your case, I might suggest the Vorshlag Bilstein kit with FRPP "P" springs, which includes their camber plates but no sway bars. If you're really trying to save every penny, just use Bilsteins on the stock springs for now. Bilsteins are a high-quality monotube that uses an inverted strut design. I haven't used them on a Mustang, but have been very happy with them on other cars. Koni Sports (aka Yellows) are another standard pick for near-stock-plus performance; unlike the Bilsteins they are twin tube but have adjustable rebound. I think both will give you decent ride quality on rough roads (with Konis on soft) and good control on track (Konis turned up). Note on the Konis - never drive them "full" hard or soft - always back off 1/4 turn from the stop; the adjuster shaft can lock up if left against the stop. As you mentioned, if you lower the car more than about 1" you'll need taller ball joints to fix the roll center change.

If you have the large hydrolastic bushing at the rear of the front lower control arm, consider changing that to polyurethane (e.g., Energy Suspension 4.3165 [R=red, G=black]) while you're doing the rest of the bushings, though it's a messy job removing the factory bushing. The early electric rack cars can develop an issue with the anti-nibble programming when going to poly front bushings, but I believe you have a hydraulic rack. The urethane bushing will increase NVH, but stabilizes toe change under braking. Maybe not as important with a lower-grip tire, but may help confidence.

PS - I like the Dodge Omni GLH you posted in the introductions thread. My first car was a Plymouth Horizon that I bought a year before the GLH came out - if only I had waited another year... 🤦‍♂️
Thanks. Exactly the kind of info/perspective I was hoping for. Question about camber plates- how does toe on the Mustang react to camber changes using the plates trackside? I haven’t had a good look at the geometry yet, but I’ve seen cars react with everything from zero change in toe to massive toe changes when camber adjustments get applied. I’ll certainly be having an alignment done once everything is installed, just curious for fine adjustments later.

As for the Omni, it’s a joy to play with. It’s not mine, belongs to a friend and I’m just the crew chief/co driver. It’s been in his family since New and been used on track just about as long. And his uncle that owned it was a meticulous note taker, so all the setup changes and how they reacted are well documented. I’ll be striving to maintain a similar diligence with my Mustang.
 

Bill Pemberton

0ld Ford Automotive Racing Terror
8,425
8,354
Exp. Type
Time Attack
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Blair, Nebraska
You might touch base with Capaldi Racing, a Sponsor on this site, as they not only sell a lot of the Ford Performance parts at a fair price , they have worked directly with Ford and Ford Performance for decades. I am sure they would be pleased to help a fellow North American and they are completely in the know. Just thinking ahead for you , because you obviously have a lot of prior track knowledge, but ordering from many companies in the US you are just going to get folks who are attempting to read computer matches, whereas Capaldi knows what works for your car and there is someone to talk to. My suggestion primarily based on helping run a Motorsports Dept. in years past where we sold plenty of stuff overseas or to Canada. The big plus we had was we knew what worked and we made sure folks did not get stuff that we were guessing at. I hope to hear about your runs at Atlantic Raceway Park and though there were a few from NS who used to post , it is always fun for those on TMO to hear about tracks and the enthusiasm around the Globe!
 
65
104
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
Nova Scotia
You might touch base with Capaldi Racing, a Sponsor on this site, as they not only sell a lot of the Ford Performance parts at a fair price , they have worked directly with Ford and Ford Performance for decades. I am sure they would be pleased to help a fellow North American and they are completely in the know. Just thinking ahead for you , because you obviously have a lot of prior track knowledge, but ordering from many companies in the US you are just going to get folks who are attempting to read computer matches, whereas Capaldi knows what works for your car and there is someone to talk to. My suggestion primarily based on helping run a Motorsports Dept. in years past where we sold plenty of stuff overseas or to Canada. The big plus we had was we knew what worked and we made sure folks did not get stuff that we were guessing at. I hope to hear about your runs at Atlantic Raceway Park and though there were a few from NS who used to post , it is always fun for those on TMO to hear about tracks and the enthusiasm around the Globe! Sounds advice. I’m lucky to have a local very small shop that is run by a pretty talented IMSA race engineer/racer/m
You might touch base with Capaldi Racing, a Sponsor on this site, as they not only sell a lot of the Ford Performance parts at a fair price , they have worked directly with Ford and Ford Performance for decades. I am sure they would be pleased to help a fellow North American and they are completely in the know. Just thinking ahead for you , because you obviously have a lot of prior track knowledge, but ordering from many companies in the US you are just going to get folks who are attempting to read computer matches, whereas Capaldi knows what works for your car and there is someone to talk to. My suggestion primarily based on helping run a Motorsports Dept. in years past where we sold plenty of stuff overseas or to Canada. The big plus we had was we knew what worked and we made sure folks did not get stuff that we were guessing at. I hope to hear about your runs at Atlantic Raceway Park and though there were a few from NS who used to post , it is always fun for those on TMO to hear about tracks and the enthusiasm around the Globe!
Sound advice. You are right - it’s worth dealing with experience rather than the cheapest price. As for TMO, I’m super glad I found the group. Lots of solid info here, and I’m willing to soak it all in. Getting this car, like I’m sure with many other members, is a milestone in my Motorsport timeline. It’s hopefully going to get me the seat time I need to improve my skills, and get me to some other tracks over the next few years. I’ve been marshaling, then overseeing track days, doing trackside instruction, technical assistance to members, developing training for marshals, coordinating our safety assets, etc for 10 years. Now it’s time to cement my skills and enjoy many laps!
 
48
41
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
Under 3 Years
Fort Worth
You might want to hold off on making performance oriented changes until you've broken in the car a bit on track. These cars are pretty good about telling you where to spend money. Early S197s (especially ones in Canada) can have rust in all kinds of places no one expects and fail in all kinds of surprisingly expensive ways. Axle seals, serpentine belts, the alternator clutch and the rear diff axle vent have waited 15 years for their opportunity to ruin your day. I'd start by making a list of what's all worn out and replace that with good adjustable stuff where it makes sense. Like everyone else said Ford Racing is a good quality benchmark - their stuff is well thought out, always fits and if you don't like it, it's easy to sell.

Are you doing the work yourself?
 
65
104
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
Nova Scotia
You might want to hold off on making performance oriented changes until you've broken in the car a bit on track. These cars are pretty good about telling you where to spend money. Early S197s (especially ones in Canada) can have rust in all kinds of places no one expects and fail in all kinds of surprisingly expensive ways. Axle seals, serpentine belts, the alternator clutch and the rear diff axle vent have waited 15 years for their opportunity to ruin your day. I'd start by making a list of what's all worn out and replace that with good adjustable stuff where it makes sense. Like everyone else said Ford Racing is a good quality benchmark - their stuff is well thought out, always fits and if you don't like it, it's easy to sell.

Are you doing the work yourself?
Yes, doing the work myself. The car is completely rust free having never seen a winter. The stuff I’m replacing is literally the stuff that’s worn out - shocks/struts have leaks, and I’ll have the springs in my hands. Lack of camber is going to kill tires that cost more than a set of plates do, so camber plates go on while the units are out. One ball joint needed replacement last year and it got a control arm, so the other side is getting done. Brake hoses are 15 years old, so are the caliper seals - I’m not trusting them with my life.

Good point on the axle seals - adding them to the list. So pretty much everything I’m looking at is a safety concern without replacement.
 
225
177
Exp. Type
Autocross
Exp. Level
Under 3 Years
Colorado Springs
Yes, doing the work myself. The car is completely rust free having never seen a winter. The stuff I’m replacing is literally the stuff that’s worn out - shocks/struts have leaks, and I’ll have the springs in my hands. Lack of camber is going to kill tires that cost more than a set of plates do, so camber plates go on while the units are out. One ball joint needed replacement last year and it got a control arm, so the other side is getting done. Brake hoses are 15 years old, so are the caliper seals - I’m not trusting them with my life.

Good point on the axle seals - adding them to the list. So pretty much everything I’m looking at is a safety concern without replacement.


You are replacing many of the same things I had to do on my car a year ago. Day 1 I had to resolve, dry worn bushings and leaky shock. I went with Steeda.com and gave them my goals, they were very mindful in helping me spend my money. :) I did get some package deal discounts just for bundling. I didn't go FP but I get the logic, instead I opted for Steeda + Whiteline. Haven't been in anyone else's car so don't have a comparison other than its far better than stock.

Thats a good price point for a set of spare track rims....
I don't know enough to fiddle with adjustable shocks, I just went for performance. I might upgrade in another year but still double I will go fully adjustable. That will also eat a large chunk of your budget.
 
303
372
CA
FWIW:

I tracked my car on stock wheels, stock brakes and an FRPP handling pack kit (w/k springs) for about a year (14 track days, 3 autocross events) and I had a fantastic time. Unlike 98% of people, I didn't immediately start going crazy with modding the car. I took the time to learn the faults of the car (whether it be braking, suspension, cooling, etc.) AND THEN I adjusted accordingly with aftermarket parts: not the other way around like most people do. I was very methodical in what I did/didn't do, and when I did it. Not saying this to toot my own horn, but if all you want is a good tool to put laps in, the S197 absolutely shines with the KISS principle: Keep it simple stupid.

As I'm sure you know, there are some upgrades which can be optional depending on your goal for the car. But for the bare minimum I would say you MUST do this, regardless of skill level and how fast you intend on being:

1.) Brake cooling ducts
2.) Brake fluid
3.) Brake pads (I ran G-LOC R16 front R-12 rear)
4.) 200TW tire or a 300tw that can hold up to more than 2-3 laps
5.) Camber Plates
6.) Rod end panhard bar
7.) Good engine oil, good diff fluid, good trans fluid
8.) Differential catch can

^^^This was a setup that on a hot day (ambient temps of 80°F+), could usually grant me 2 10/10th's laps before needing to let everything cool down (Brakes, tires, coolant, oil).

OPTIONAL ITEMS:
1.) Springs, shocks, sways (FRPP handling pack kit, above mentioned vorshlag Bilstein kit, etc.)
2.) FRPP GT500 front lower control arms (nails two birds with one stone: gives you a beefier ball joint, and a harder durometer bushing which helps under braking, AND freshens everything up)
3.) New OEM ford tie rod ends
4.) Bucket Seat (See Corbeau FX1 pro for a cost effective great bang for the buck option)
5.) Radiator
6.) Oil Cooler
7.) Big Brake Kit
8.) RLCA's
9.) RLCA Relocation Brackets

This is all considering that the 3V in your car is fresh and in good condition. Depending on the miles of that 3v, you will need to freshen it up to have it be reliable.

Good luck, be safe and always feel free to reach out
 
5
20
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
20+ Years
CT
Great content and advice here. Yes, ask everyone what worked and works for them, support those suppliers, fabricators, manufacturers, and vendors who are sponsoring here because they really do provide very valuable input, competency and stuff you'll wear out, need more of and be safer and faster with in most instances.

First is safety. Review all of the safety guidelines an requirements as provided by sanctioning bodies and track requirements. That's the single most important thing you can do for yourself and all of us.

Second is spend money on improving your driving skills. Listen, learn and take instruction openly and deliberately so that your "bad" or "dangerous" tendencies are eliminated early in the game on track which keeps you in the groove tomorrow and the next and again be safe and in control.

Third is the result of the the first and second paragraph. - that is there are minimum baselines regarding the car and it's configuration and even by this point you will know already just how much in consummables - brake pads, rotors, tires, oil, fuel and the like.... and you will learn that bigger brakes, bigger tires and all the stuff in suspensions and the geometry required to go fast and safe will come to you in needs and wants. And this is where the fun and desire will take you to a black hole which will be immeasurable provided you maintain the skills and resources of all kinds to keep going.

For me, it's the joy of a lifetime! Best to you.
 

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