Help on a connector plug 15-16 Mustang Gt

[Hell horse]

Dyno plug -Help
Can anyone w a 2015 - 2017 gt tell me what 2 of the 4 wires connect when the plug is connected. Its the connector right next to the airbox. Along left front fender. The 4 pin connector plugs into a cap that has a solid green wire that loops back into itself. Once disconnected the plug you will be able to see what 2 of the 4 wires on the harness side connect. Plug was lost and need to know what wires connect w plug installed. Very much appreciated!

 

[PaddyPrix]

Actually, that is known as the dyno plug, and the other half is what networking folks call a loopback, where it crosses a signal wire over. Long story short, as long as that's connected, everything is fine. However, if that is disconnected, along with it goes your traction control or AdvanceTrac.

Now why would you do this? Depends on what you're looking for. As somebody who tracks/races their car, generally speaking, when you break the ignition/power, your mode will default to Normal, where you've got to press the button a few times to get into Track mode, or a long hold to disable AdvanceTrac, or if you're more extreme and have removed your stereo and many of the buttons, you lose the ability to turn it off. I believe you can tune it out as well, but this is foolproof.

Now why would you want to disable AdvanceTrac? The Mustang assumes that you can't drive, and is always on the lookout for things like if your rear end starts walking out on you, watching various things like your wheel speed sensors, your steering wheel angle, what you're doing with the gas pedal, etc. It'll attempt to save you by various combinations, mostly a light application of the rear brakes, and pulling up on the throttle, regardless if you've got it pressed down or not. If you're not paying attention in a high G turn on the track, it'll feel like a 3/4 limp mode, and once your wheel is pretty straight it'll go back to hard acceleration. For tracking, this'll eventually overheat your rear differential, because all that power is coming through and the brakes slowing it down causing all this extra friction and heat, and if you're comfy with the rear end getting out, it's somewhat annoying that it's trying to save you from something that you were perfectly fine with. I'd guess if you're running a dyno, you'd probably also want to disable it, as it's potentially making you read low and screwing up all your numbers.

 

[Hell horse]

Actually, that is known as the dyno plug, and the other half is what networking folks call a loopback, where it crosses a signal wire over. Long story short, as long as that's connected, everything is fine. However, if that is disconnected, along with it goes your traction control or AdvanceTrac.

Now why would you do this? Depends on what you're looking for. As somebody who tracks/races their car, generally speaking, when you break the ignition/power, your mode will default to Normal, where you've got to press the button a few times to get into Track mode, or a long hold to disable AdvanceTrac, or if you're more extreme and have removed your stereo and many of the buttons, you lose the ability to turn it off. I believe you can tune it out as well, but this is foolproof.

Now why would you want to disable AdvanceTrac? The Mustang assumes that you can't drive, and is always on the lookout for things like if your rear end starts walking out on you, watching various things like your wheel speed sensors, your steering wheel angle, what you're doing with the gas pedal, etc. It'll attempt to save you by various combinations, mostly a light application of the rear brakes, and pulling up on the throttle, regardless if you've got it pressed down or not. If you're not paying attention in a high G turn on the track, it'll feel like a 3/4 limp mode, and once your wheel is pretty straight it'll go back to hard acceleration. For tracking, this'll eventually overheat your rear differential, because all that power is coming through and the brakes slowing it down causing all this extra friction and heat, and if you're comfy with the rear end getting out, it's somewhat annoying that it's trying to save you from something that you were perfectly fine with. I'd guess if you're running a dyno, you'd probably also want to disable it, as it's potentially making you read low and screwing up all your numbers.

Appreciate the information. Could you tell me

Actually, that is known as the dyno plug, and the other half is what networking folks call a loopback, where it crosses a signal wire over. Long story short, as long as that's connected, everything is fine. However, if that is disconnected, along with it goes your traction control or AdvanceTrac.

Now why would you do this? Depends on what you're looking for. As somebody who tracks/races their car, generally speaking, when you break the ignition/power, your mode will default to Normal, where you've got to press the button a few times to get into Track mode, or a long hold to disable AdvanceTrac, or if you're more extreme and have removed your stereo and many of the buttons, you lose the ability to turn it off. I believe you can tune it out as well, but this is foolproof.

Now why would you want to disable AdvanceTrac? The Mustang assumes that you can't drive, and is always on the lookout for things like if your rear end starts walking out on you, watching various things like your wheel speed sensors, your steering wheel angle, what you're doing with the gas pedal, etc. It'll attempt to save you by various combinations, mostly a light application of the rear brakes, and pulling up on the throttle, regardless if you've got it pressed down or not. If you're not paying attention in a high G turn on the track, it'll feel like a 3/4 limp mode, and once your wheel is pretty straight it'll go back to hard acceleration. For tracking, this'll eventually overheat your rear differential, because all that power is coming through and the brakes slowing it down causing all this extra friction and heat, and if you're comfy with the rear end getting out, it's somewhat annoying that it's trying to save you from something that you were perfectly fine with. I'd guess if you're running a dyno, you'd probably also want to disable it, as it's potentially making you read low and screwing up all your numbers.

Thanks for the information. Could you tell me what 2 of the 4 wires on the harness side actually connect . When the looped “dyno “ plug cap is connected ?

Actually, that is known as the dyno plug, and the other half is what networking folks call a loopback, where it crosses a signal wire over. Long story short, as long as that's connected, everything is fine. However, if that is disconnected, along with it goes your traction control or AdvanceTrac.

Now why would you do this? Depends on what you're looking for. As somebody who tracks/races their car, generally speaking, when you break the ignition/power, your mode will default to Normal, where you've got to press the button a few times to get into Track mode, or a long hold to disable AdvanceTrac, or if you're more extreme and have removed your stereo and many of the buttons, you lose the ability to turn it off. I believe you can tune it out as well, but this is foolproof.

Now why would you want to disable AdvanceTrac? The Mustang assumes that you can't drive, and is always on the lookout for things like if your rear end starts walking out on you, watching various things like your wheel speed sensors, your steering wheel angle, what you're doing with the gas pedal, etc. It'll attempt to save you by various combinations, mostly a light application of the rear brakes, and pulling up on the throttle, regardless if you've got it pressed down or not. If you're not paying attention in a high G turn on the track, it'll feel like a 3/4 limp mode, and once your wheel is pretty straight it'll go back to hard acceleration. For tracking, this'll eventually overheat your rear differential, because all that power is coming through and the brakes slowing it down causing all this extra friction and heat, and if you're comfy with the rear end getting out, it's somewhat annoying that it's trying to save you from something that you were perfectly fine with. I'd guess if you're running a dyno, you'd probably also want to disable it, as it's potentially making you read low and screwing up all your numbers.

Thanks for the informative information !
Could you tell me what 2 of the 4 wires connect when the loopback plug is connected into the dyno plug harness?
Colours on harness in question
Solid green
2 green w red trace
Grey w trace

The performance shop has lost the loop back plug when on the dyno. They did not re install after tuning. They have ordered a new oem loop back plug- 4 weeks away.

I just want to temporarily jump 2 of the 4 pins for now. To close the circuit

thanks

 

[Hell horse]

Appreciate the information. Could you tell me

Thanks for the information. Could you tell me what 2 of the 4 wires on the harness side actually connect . When the looped “dyno “ plug cap is connected ?

Thanks for the informative information !
Could you tell me what 2 of the 4 wires connect when the loopback plug is connected into the dyno plug harness?
Colours on harness in question
Solid green
2 green w red trace
Grey w trace

The performance shop has lost the loop back plug when on the dyno. They did not re install after tuning. They have ordered a new oem loop back plug- 4 weeks away.

I just want to temporarily jump 2 of the 4 pins for now. To close the circuit

thanks

Apologize for the scrambled reply. Not sure what I did there