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Help with a little suspension noise

Getting a few miles on the new suspension (koni, steeda sports and panhard and strano bars. Going over bumps and such no noise, but when I hit the driveway at an angle or wiggle the car back and forth hard down the road, I get alittle knocking in the rear. I'm thinking the sway bar is binding. I'll disconnect it to see if the noise goes away. Any other thoughts?
 

Senderofan

Having more fun than should be allowed..in my Boss
I had a fair amount of "Feedback" like you describe. Also...this occurred backing out of my driveway. I decreased the noise by about 50% by re-gressing the sways and LCA's. Finally...I think the remaining noise is coming from my UCA....which has a Heim joint. Did you also swap in a UCA? Lots of threads describing NVH after swapping in more rigid suspension bits. The rubber bushing on the OEM UCA is incredibly compliant.....I think the bushings in the OEM LCA's are very similar.

Wayne
 

drano38

Wayne
1,130
318
I've got Strano front/rear bars too, and after a while got a clunking noise on the right rear.
I got some of this lube, took everything apart (including removing the steel bushings from the poly inserts), lubed the crap out of everything, and put back together.
Now its quite (except for my UMI roto joints).
http://www.prothanesuspensionparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=9.11104
 
Everything else is stock.

Can you overtighten the bolts that sandwich the bushings? I cranked the shiznit out of them which of course makes the bar move less freely in the bushing. There were no torque numbers in the instructions.
 

Grant 302

basic and well known psychic
cosm3os said:
Everything else is stock.

Can you overtighten the bolts that sandwich the bushings? I cranked the shiznit out of them which of course makes the bar move less freely in the bushing. There were no torque numbers in the instructions.

I think it could be overtightened. Maybe under lubricated. Often popping noise is not tight enough on the bar ends/links.
 
cosm3os said:
Everything else is stock.

Can you overtighten the bolts that sandwich the bushings? I cranked the shiznit out of them which of course makes the bar move less freely in the bushing. There were no torque numbers in the instructions.

Eh, http://iihs.net/fsm/?dir=734&viewfile=Stabilizer%20Bar.pdf says 85 ft/lbs
 
I did torqued the stock fasteners per the book, but there are some bolts that assemble the endlinks that come with the bars and there's no number for those. Same with the bolts that hold the ends of the bars to the aftermarket bracket.

I peaked under the car today and see that my paint line on the nut that attaches to the end of the bar has moved. Waiting for it to get nicer out to disconnect the bar to isolate that and if that's the cause, I'll pull it all out and relube. Wouldn't be the panhard, right?
 
So, that's what it was--the bolt that holds the end of the bar had become loose. Just goes to prove--you don't have to be working on a racecar to paint your fasteners! Thanks for the help.
 

Grant 302

basic and well known psychic
Always here to help, unless you put TracKey on your car! ;) :D

But seriously, anyone who tracks their car should make a habit to re-torque/re-tighten new suspension parts shortly after installation. Between sessions on the first time out would be a good idea too.
 

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