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Help with lower control arm bracket decesion

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I have not tracked my car but do occasionally like to launch it. Otherwise, I am pretty gentle on it.
From day one I have had wheel hop although at the time I didn't know that was what it was called as my previous cars did not have this issue. I understand that this is not optimal for the car and of course it does not get you down the road faster!
I'm sure with better technique on a launch I could minimize the hop but the LCA relocation brackets and new LCA's seem like one possible "cure".
However, in reading numerous posts I see some people have indicated that if the car is at the stock ride height new brackets will either be of no help or might actually cause a problem as they will change the stock geometry for the worse. Furthermore, if I get the LCA's I might then have to get upper control arms. Not a deal breaker but I was hoping to make as few changes as possible and accomplish my goal.
I was looking at the Ford racing LCA's and brackets but realize that there are a lot of choices. So my questions are (finally):
1. Is there any benefit to adding the brackets and new LCA's in an otherwise stock suspension car?
2. Are the Ford brackets a good choice in terms of quality and ease of installation? (With my HP I assume I don't need welded brackets and the Ford units will be safe)
3. Is there a better (LCA) product that is easier to install etc.?
4. Would I need to make other suspension changes now and if so what? (I want to know what I am getting into)
5. What are the downsides to changing the LCA's and adding the brackets? Possible noise over bumps? Harsher ride? Anything else?
Thanks for any help you can provide. Think of me as a 3 year old when you try and explain suspension information. No big words. :)
 
If you are going to keep the rest of the car stock, I would recommend getting a Roush Third Link first and see if this takes care of your wheel hop. Here is the link: http://www.roushperformance.com/parts/3rd-Link-Wheel-Hop-Reduction-Kit-for-Mustang-2011-2012.html
Good Luck.
 
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wwilde001 said:
If you are going to keep the rest of the car stock, I would recommend getting a Roush Third Link first and see if this takes care of your wheel hop. Here is the link: http://www.roushperformance.com/parts/3rd-Link-Wheel-Hop-Reduction-Kit-for-Mustang-2011-2012.html
Good Luck.
Thanks. I'll check that out!
 
Metco Motorsports

Highly professional, superior products. I have zero affiliation but I have their UCA, LCA's and relocation brackets. Very nice products made in america.

http://www.metcomotorsports.com/products.asp?cat=102
 
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GR8WYT said:
Metco Motorsports

Highly professional, superior products. I have zero affiliation but I have their UCA, LCA's and relocation brackets. Very nice products made in america.

http://www.metcomotorsports.com/products.asp?cat=102
\
Thank you. So, do I need to do upper arms or can I jut do the lowers and be done with it?
 
I swapped my lowers with the one's from CHE, I don't have anymore wheel hop or fish tailing during spirited take offs. I still can't get the power down though, I need more self control. That's the only mod I've done to the suspension.
 
You have a lot of questions that all depend on how much money you want to spend, ride quality, negligible NVH etc.

You can put a UCA and do LCA's without relocation brackets and maintain stock ride height and geometry. Once you start lowering the car these items will not have to be replaced just be augmented with relocation brackets and have the UCA adjusted for pinion angle. Then further decisions will have you going with upgrades on the panhard, sway bars or go with a watts link. A torque arm will replace a a UCA if I am correct but you should gain advice from experienced track people, vehicle engineers, suspension experts and the like. There are many people that will help you gain knowledge and direct you to their suite of product. I have spoken to Sam Strano, I know Terry Fair from Vorschlag affects assistance, Eric Swarr, Rehagen racing, Watson racing, and many more. It is your money and your car so you definitely want to do your research firsthand. I imagine you will have someone install the product, you can find a great product with someone who will fail to install it correctly or not offer a base setup and chase your tail trying to correct lack of information.

Sam Strano offered this advice..... Drive the car, learn the car, then change one part at a time and DRIVE THE CAR. LOL, he is so right and it's so basic but how many times do you install what people seem to have a general consensus works. Well your stock suspension works too, so who is to say what works and what does not? If you went to track attack how many were afraid to push the car and how many drove it to the limit?

I can tell you I love every item I added. I chose to upgrade to weak points, I love the gearing, love the power and just wanted an adjustable solid HPDE, Autocross type car with the ability to go farther without double expenditures. That being said the stock car is still damn good for most everyone.
 
I did the Roush wheel hop kit , it works great , no wheel hop , stock lower control arms , (quite a few of the GT500 owners use it ) and best of all no changes in NVH .
 

576

I had wicked wheel hop on my '12 when I got it as well. Strangely, the '12 Gt I traded for the '12 Boss had no wheel hop. Gt bone stock. Changed the upper link to the Roush reinforced piece with rubber bushings. Looks like a stock upper link in case of warranty concerns. After install with stock springs and later with "P" springs and no other mods, I had no wheel hop at all. Definitely recommend it.
 
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I would definitely do the Roush upper link if this is a stock car.
This way, you get more anti squat (90% on the roush vs 50% stock) without affecting roll steer.

I would suspect that a stock ride height car with LCA relocation brackets may get dicey with all that rear steer that can go on.
 

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